FS2500 oil bypass
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Well for the stainless steel lines kit, its 489 US...Thats not too bad, I haven't really looked at many though. I just wanna know if its worth it. My dad says that even though you filter it more, the oil still breaks down though.
Well, oil breakage doesn't really happen. Oil will shear and loose viscosity. Oil will oxidized from heat and contaminants. Oil's additives will get used up.
Your full flow filter is about a 15 micron nominal filter. A good bypass filter will be around 2 microns or less at 99% or more efficiency. That's a pretty big difference.
Bypass filters used to be the ONLY filter used in heavy duty applications. They work. There are 40+ years of proof to show that. The question is whether the price of the filter assembly and filters and maintenance routine are worth the price to you.
Are you going to run really long drain intervals? Do you operate in dirty environments? Or do you just want to add filtration and continue your normal oil and filter habits?
Your full flow filter is about a 15 micron nominal filter. A good bypass filter will be around 2 microns or less at 99% or more efficiency. That's a pretty big difference.
Bypass filters used to be the ONLY filter used in heavy duty applications. They work. There are 40+ years of proof to show that. The question is whether the price of the filter assembly and filters and maintenance routine are worth the price to you.
Are you going to run really long drain intervals? Do you operate in dirty environments? Or do you just want to add filtration and continue your normal oil and filter habits?
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1,561 Posts
You may also want to check into Amsoil's bypass filter. It is a bunch cheaper and is a great filter IMHO.
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UM yum shes looks naughty.I'd go for the Amsoil system........But FS2500 has a HOT girl (Christine LeMaster) for the model!ostwhore2:
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Don't know if your still reading this- but i had a similar question- for my F350 7.3- in terms of expense- have you looked at Amsoil's set up? i'm personally trying to figure out the best "kit" to use from them- I'm a wanabee mechanic- that breaks it the first 4 times then finally gets it right- but- their site does show examples, pictures of different installations- I saw one where user braided the lines for extra protection- its not cheap, but I don't think it's as expensive as some of the notes in this thread. May be wrong though.
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The Oilguard mounts very easily under the driver's door and can be easily plumbed with the hardware OilGuard provides with their kit. I went with teflon/s.s hoses rather than pushlok but the pressures involved really do not need anything more than pushlok hose. The only difficulty with this mounting location is the e-brake cable and a 3/4" aluminum block stood the mount off sufficiently for the cable to clear everything. It was one of my first mods.
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Amsoil's hose has a steel braid inside of it, it just is a fabric outer covering. The hose is rubber, not teflon however. The fittings are the screw together type that are good for at least 1000psi. I'm not sure on the max pressure of the hose and fittings but it is way overkill for what it is used for. Same with the teflon SS braided hose, way overkill as well.
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246 Posts
I put an FS-2500 on my 99 7.3psd bout 3 weeks ago. I've got 1500 miles on fresh oil with it. I can honestly say that I have never seen the oil this clean. I can easily see through it on the old dipstick. As far as mounting it isnt too hard, and it comes with all the fittings you need to make it happen. As far as the unit itself its extremely rugged!!! I bet just the housing with the element in it is close to 15 lbs. But I tell ya what, I could probably drive over it with the truck and it would be AOK. I personaly think it is worth the extra cash.
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Okay, so do you want something cheap or something that works??? We have done several oil samples on a few different vehicles. One truck a few months ago we did an oil analysis on was a 1999 Ford F-350 with 195951 on the engine and 4320 miles on the oil. The analysis came back and said that the engine was on deaths door. Aluminum (piston wear) was 25ppm and Iron, Block, crank, cam wear) was 91 ppm. The national average for our engines is 2ppm aluminum and 17ppm iron!!!!! so then we changed the oil and installed the FS2500 bypass filter kit w/ stainless braided lines, the customer drove the truck 7255 miles and did another oil analysis, the outcome.........7 ppm aluminum and 58ppm iron. Now, that may still not be down to the national average, but he drove the truck 2935 miles longer with less wear. Also the oil at 7255 miles still carried a TBN of 9.4 Which is pretty darn good considering it starts the test at 12.0. We have just done another sample on the same truck and are awaiting the test results. I will post as soon as I know the results. Just my .02 cents take it or leave it. FWIW we are trying to come up with a product that will do the same thing just a little cheaper. and If you are lucky we might even do a DIY and supply everyone with the part #s so that you can save even more money.
Because particles 5mic and larger cause wear. It filters down to 2mic, so the wear-causing particles are now removed from the system.
Metal, mostly, and soot I would say. The natural particles of iron, copper, brass, etc that are present in all engines from wear.
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