01' 7.3. Bought truck back in nov. With 190 injectors hydra tune, no fuel bowl has mod(driven diesel)

Taking off turbo pipes to check where small oil leak in valley coming from and why white smoke coming from my truck when I got on it on friday but doesn't smoke in idle. Coolant was at level and nothing in it and major oil leaks. I saw oil was on the side of the turbo on/below wastegate and underneath on the pedestal. After several hours(!) View attachment 209084
View attachment 209085
of cursing n walking away from the rear v clamp and finally removing after several UTUBE vids. and making a mini slide hammer with 12" bolt, washer, nut and 1/2 socket cut off wheel(hopefully that can help someone?), removed the turbo and heard something inside and found this?
Time for new turbo, if so suggestions?
It is garret 702720. I looked up says 70mm?
Truck has a hydra tune, does that make difference on which turbo size to get or stay what was with it?

Thanks Tim

That almost looks like a coked up oil passage to me, I never saw anything close to that when I replaced my stock EBPV pedestal with RiffRaff's pedestal. I wish I have some advice for you sir, I am watching intently from here.

 

Wow havent seen that before. Kinda looks like a part of the casting from around where the thrust bearing sits. I would recommend a stage 2 KC300X, seems like it would be a perfect fit for the 190s.

 

I only saw 2 pics originally, now i see 4 pics. Yeah, that doesnt look good at all. Tear the turbo apart and see whats inside, i think you need to see inside, i know i am curious.

 

Timr,
If the internals are still okay KC turbos makes a kit that replaces the bearings (gives you a full 360* thrust bearing), compressor and turbine wheels, and all new seals. If you go with the stage 2 you get a SXE style turbo that fits like stock.

Would you know what's the difference between KC300X .84 and 1.0 ?

Where you spool up is the biggest difference. The .84 will spool at a lower rpm, but you will lose some of your top end performance. If you aren't hotrodding the truck or tow often, the .84 will be a great upgrade.

Cj

 

Timr,
If the internals are still okay KC turbos makes a kit that replaces the bearings (gives you a full 360* thrust bearing), compressor and turbine wheels, and all new seals. If you go with the stage 2 you get a SXE style turbo that fits like stock.

Where you spool up is the biggest difference. The .84 will spool at a lower rpm, but you will lose some of your top end performance. If you aren't hotrodding the truck or tow often, the .84 will be a great upgrade.

Cj

I went with your suggestion after searching internet n amazon, then asking KC turbo's 2 mil. questions and explanations(lol), they were very knowledgeable and helpful. I bought Stage 2 KC300X with the .84. I was thinking of getting a cheaper imitation Garrett one for 400 and then buy a Wicked Wheel for 200 bucks but I felt more at ease after talking to KC turbos(and their reviews and cheap turbo reviews) and especially when I asked if I put a wicked wheel($230) on it would it give added performance and they said they wouldn't n save my $. I'm guessing turbo tech has changed in past 20 yrs.lol
Pretty much, plug n play.
I don't want to pull this out again for long time and not have to worry. 🤞
I watch customworks, Clint Allen on youtube, guy is awesome for 7.3 powerstroke how to vids. Gives one get know how! Not a plug, just appreciate the guy.
Thanks again!

 

Your turbo appears to have come apart. Once they eat themselves...............It's time for a complete new turbo. Unless your drag racing your ride, don't even consider a turbo with an AR ratio of less than 1.0. Smaller AR ratios can develop surging and a host of other issues and will generate less peak pressure unless you go with a larger wheel size. Again..................If this is a street ride.........stay with 1.0 AR ratio. If you want a street drivable truck without surging issues, stick with 1.0. It will spool up plenty fast as long as you have a chip that will throw suffencient fuel to the engine. My Banks Power Pack system came with a 1.0 and it was an increadable improvement along with the after cooler and fuel chip and turbo exhaust down pipe.

 

While i can understand this, it 'sounds' logical, but if you have supporting research or documentation, I would like to see it, for my own education. I am highly interested in researching this and will do so.

Thanks for the thought provoking ideas.

Anyone have opposing views, hopefully with supporting data?

KC Turbos has done alot of research into turbo tech, i bet they have something for us to look at....

 

I did all the research years ago when I modded my truck when the tranny crapped out. Can't remember all the details. Don't have the data close at hand but what I have stated is old news that still applies to this day. We are talking just about the exhaust TURBINE housing.........not the COMPRESSOR side. The OEM Ford exhaust turbine housing is a 1.15 AR ratio. Look on the Gale Banks wed site. I'm sure they have info to educate you on why they went with the 1.0. Bottom line the 1.0 housing gives the best improvement (turbo response time) without the negatives of a too smaller ratio housing. If you install anything smaller than a 1.0 you run the risk of engine surging at a fix throttle setting like when running down the highway. If this is a daily driver..........you don't want a ratio smaller than 1.0. If you want more maximum pressure than the OEM turbo can produce............you have to go with a larger compressor wheel turbo. You bring on a whole new set of issues if you do that. Trust me when I say a 1.0 housing is all you need in combination with a healthy chip. Stock OEM I believe the 7.3 produces 8 psi total boost and it takes 5-8 seconds to develop that when you floor it. With the Banks 1.0 housing, their chip, after cooler and larger turbo down pipe.......I get 28 psi in about 3-4 seconds. It hauls ass now and it's NOT over fueling the engine like some chips do. My exhaust throws just a little haze at WOT fully loaded. The Banks system is a well thought out system. Their chip is adding as much fuel as the OEM compressor can supply. Sure you can get a chip that over fuels the engine and that WILL produce more power......but that's a waste of fuel, you'll throw a ton of black smoke and you're just over heating the engine. If you throw more fuel into the engine than the air you're giving it from the turbo............you run the risk of overheating the flame front and you can bore a hole thru the piston dome. Anything thing over 1350 degrees for a sustain period of time and you'll melt the piston. At WOT pulling a fully loaded trailer, my EGT runs 1250 degrees and the turbo is screaming. I love to hear the turbo and engine pulling now at WOT. I never heard the turbo before the mods.

 

You could look at KC Turbos as well (I have a stage 1) . They have borrowed the Borg Warner SXE design and flipped it around so it works with the 7.3 powered trucks. If you aren't hot-rodding the truck a .84 turbine AR is fine. It spools up sooner, although you do lose top end performance (but I really don't like reving the engine over 2800 RPM anyway). I have also not had any surging problems alluded to by Bluestreakrem1 with the .84 AR setup. I pulled a 15k trailer this weekend with a dragging brake (need to get that fixed now) with no issues.

 

Would be my suggestion as well, depending on his needs of course.

 

Yeah, that looks nasty. Time for a new setup, KC Turbos here he comes.

Already in, stage 2 KC300X
Now have to deal with power steering gear box. Leaking and of course changed all the lines couple months ago because of previous line( original) leaks. I bought seal/oring kit for steering gear box but not sure if I should still change seal/orings or buy a blue top? Saying that cause not sure if I do the seals is it going to go on me Lil but down the road( but steering is fine?)? Don't really want buy another one but being skeptical/insecure of changing seals out correctly? But after that mechanical wise he'll be good for long while🤞 Then I need to focus on bed, driver side cab corner n rocker panels. Then cover him in either gray or black bed liner(rolling it on).

 

Wow! You installed a new turbo and you have NOTHING to say about it? The stage two KC300X must not be very impressive.

 

Being this is my first diesel and also turbo replacement. He does run great with KC300X turbo and the staff at KC turbos are awesome, I called by them several times got 3 different ppl, picking their brains before I bought it and each person knew their ****, to me that's impressive! Its much faster off the line especially for a 1 ton, but I need to replace fuel gauge, not working n tank leaks when I fill to top (drive shaft came off at 70mpg after I bought driving him home, at 140miles of the 320 miles and smashed into tank), to notice difference in mileage. I'm getting used to it produces more soot/smoke at higher end when getting on him, stock by would do it every time I got on him. I just waiting couple weeks before I state something with facts.😉

 

Yes.........The smaller AR ratio (along with a heavy fuel chip) will allow the turbine to spool up faster. For those just installing a smaller turbine housing on the OEM turbo like I did (rather than buying a completely new turbo assembly having a new turbine and compressor wheel) it's advisable not to go less than an 1.0 AR ratio turbine housing in combination with the stock OEM compressor wheel, as it can cause surging. Gale Banks did extensive tests in this area and stated less than 0.95 runs the risk of surging at a steady throttle setting as like when running down the highway. It appears KC has designed their compressor housing inlet to allow excess boost to by-pass back into the fresh air side of the compressor to allieviate surging. That's the holes around the inlet casting. They must work because others state they don't have an issue with surging. Banks also stated running smaller than 0.90 turbine housing can limit peak boost pressure with a standard OEM compressor wheel. I'm getting 26 psi with their chip and their 1.0 AR on my stock OEM compressor and my rig barely hazes the exhaust at WOT. The exhaust smoke signature is only a little more from a WOT standing start (and it's not belching black smoke as some chips do) then as it accelerates, it quickly clears up after the engine and turbo have stopped accelerating. It will slightly haze the exhaust at WOT with the turbo screaming at 26 psi, pulling a load up a mountain pass while running about 2300 rpm and generating no more than 1250 degrees EGT. What ever you do........ get a chip that matches fuel delivery to the turbos max pressure and pressure curve rise. That's gives you the best power for the fuel expended. That also mitigates a bunch of black smoke belching out the exhaust which is a sign of a huge chip and turbo mismatch. Heavy black smoke raises EGT temps through the roof which will damage pistons if your at and above 1350 degrees for a prolong period of time.