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Discussion Starter #1
DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THE WIRING HARNESS FOR A 04 6.0 FICM IS SUPPOSED TO BE MISSING ANY PINS? THE LARGEST OF THE 3 CONNECTORS IS MISSING SEVERAL PINS IN THE FITTING ITSELF. THE OTHER TWO SMALLER CONNECTORS HAVE ALL THE PINS THAT I CAN TELL. I JUST HAD FICM REBUILT TODAY AND THEN RECONNECTED IT AND WONT CRANK BUT TURNS OVER. SHOWING CODES U0306(SOFTWARE INCOMPATIBILITY) U0105(LOST COMMUNICATION) AND U0105 AND PO671. ANYBODY GOT A CLUE ABOUT THE PIN COUNT AND ANY OTHER HELP ON THIS SITUATION?
 

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Haters Gonna Hate
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DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THE WIRING HARNESS FOR A 04 6.0 FICM IS SUPPOSED TO BE MISSING ANY PINS? THE LARGEST OF THE 3 CONNECTORS IS MISSING SEVERAL PINS IN THE FITTING ITSELF. THE OTHER TWO SMALLER CONNECTORS HAVE ALL THE PINS THAT I CAN TELL. I JUST HAD FICM REBUILT TODAY AND THEN RECONNECTED IT AND WONT CRANK BUT TURNS OVER. SHOWING CODES U0306(SOFTWARE INCOMPATIBILITY) U0105(LOST COMMUNICATION) AND U0105 AND PO671. ANYBODY GOT A CLUE ABOUT THE PIN COUNT AND ANY OTHER HELP ON THIS SITUATION?
to start with can you please turn off ur caps?

WONT CRANK BUT TURNS OVER<- this statement is contradictory, the engine is spinning yes or no?

sounds as if the ficm may possibly need to be reflashed, depending on what was replaced
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yes, it will spin over but will not crank. if i wouldve kept trying it wouldve burned up the starter. when i had it repaired today they DID have to put a different board in one side of the ficm because they said one of the traces was damaged and unrepairable. this was the side with the capacitors and was told that if this side was replaced, the ficm would not have to be reflashed because the other board was the one that held the memory and the one that was replaced was the voltage converter side... go figure!
 

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yes, it will spin over but will not crank. if i wouldve kept trying it wouldve burned up the starter. when i had it repaired today they DID have to put a different board in one side of the ficm because they said one of the traces was damaged and unrepairable. this was the side with the capacitors and was told that if this side was replaced, the ficm would not have to be reflashed because the other board was the one that held the memory and the one that was replaced was the voltage converter side... go figure!
was it the large board or the small board?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
it was rebuilt i assume with newer components that needed replacing. same as if it went to swamps or something. sent it in for a redoing because it was showing 31 volts at idle. its the board with the two black caps on top of the capacitors.. it is broken where the two capacitors on one side have two legs each that have to be pushed down a little while u retouch the solder joints.. does that help any?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
it is showing 48 volts, i was shown on the workbench before i left with it and it tested 48 on truck with key on and during cranking, just dont know what it is running, well because its not running!
 

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it was rebuilt i assume with newer components that needed replacing. same as if it went to swamps or something. sent it in for a redoing because it was showing 31 volts at idle. its the board with the two black caps on top of the capacitors.. it is broken where the two capacitors on one side have two legs each that have to be pushed down a little while u retouch the solder joints.. does that help any?
theres a small board that 3"x4" roughly and the other is the same size as the ficm housing, i do believe they replaced the power side of the board but i think you may need to check into getting it programmed
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ive looked for chafed wires and such, no luck. checked fuses and all good. but the codes all pointing towards no communication issues makes me think that also, but i was REASSURED that reprogramming was not necessary and im going to be pissed if it does after the promises... do you know anything about how many female ends( i assume thats what they are called?) are supposed to be in the actual wiring harness (the larger one) itself? the two smaller ones have silver female ends in each hole to accept all pins from the ficm but the largest of the three has several female ends missing from the truck side harness itself. seems odd to me..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i dont know because theyre is tape and wire loom all the way up to connector fitting. i did notice that connectors were what seemed to be two-peice connectors but did not unplug it in fear i would tear up something else.
 
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Didn't the same plugs you speak of work before you removed the FICM for repair?
 

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ok, so now i have replaced FICM with another one from the company that originally worked on mine. it appears to be older because its a seven pin versus my four pin. when i got home i was able to crank it right up and did hear buzz from glow plugs. damn thing sounds like its cammin! resembles an old nasty loud 7.3...which i love, but obviously this program is not the same as my original and it will crank but will not move an inch, even with the pedal to the floor, for at least 20-30- min. showing codes u0306 and #2 contribution/balance. next step for me i think is to go out here tonight and pull egr and let soak overnight.....then tommorow start disassembly on drivers side motor to remove #2 and replace it asap. know i know most of u are going to say>>>"man, since u already had access, u shoulda went ahead and replaced all four on that side" now now...if u could ask my exwife to reduce that c/s for just one month well then i would be happy to throw 3 more in on that side. but we all know that aint gonna happen soooo...next would be to re assemble then putt putt to dealer and have them flash ficm pcm and whatever else needs to be synced! after that a very LARGE hole has been dug way way way out back for its proper burning! anything yall????


does this sound like a plan fellas????
 

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Haters Gonna Hate
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ok, so now i have replaced FICM with another one from the company that originally worked on mine. it appears to be older because its a seven pin versus my four pin. when i got home i was able to crank it right up and did hear buzz from glow plugs. damn thing sounds like its cammin! resembles an old nasty loud 7.3...which i love, but obviously this program is not the same as my original and it will crank but will not move an inch, even with the pedal to the floor, for at least 20-30- min. showing codes u0306 and #2 contribution/balance. next step for me i think is to go out here tonight and pull egr and let soak overnight.....then tommorow start disassembly on drivers side motor to remove #2 and replace it asap. know i know most of u are going to say>>>"man, since u already had access, u shoulda went ahead and replaced all four on that side" now now...if u could ask my exwife to reduce that c/s for just one month well then i would be happy to throw 3 more in on that side. but we all know that aint gonna happen soooo...next would be to re assemble then putt putt to dealer and have them flash ficm pcm and whatever else needs to be synced! after that a very LARGE hole has been dug way way way out back for its proper burning! anything yall????


does this sound like a plan fellas????
if you get to the point of burning it just bring it to my house n drop it off, check r ficm plugs to make sure they are clipped all the way in, mine loped like a big block gasser with a lumpy cam with my innovative tuned ficm when i didn't have the plugs engaged fully
 
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ok, so now i have replaced FICM with another one from the company that originally worked on mine. it appears to be older because its a seven pin versus my four pin. when i got home i was able to crank it right up and did hear buzz from glow plugs. damn thing sounds like its cammin! resembles an old nasty loud 7.3...which i love, but obviously this program is not the same as my original and it will crank but will not move an inch, even with the pedal to the floor, for at least 20-30- min. showing codes u0306 and #2 contribution/balance. next step for me i think is to go out here tonight and pull egr and let soak overnight.....then tommorow start disassembly on drivers side motor to remove #2 and replace it asap. know i know most of u are going to say>>>"man, since u already had access, u shoulda went ahead and replaced all four on that side" now now...if u could ask my exwife to reduce that c/s for just one month well then i would be happy to throw 3 more in on that side. but we all know that aint gonna happen soooo...next would be to re assemble then putt putt to dealer and have them flash ficm pcm and whatever else needs to be synced! after that a very LARGE hole has been dug way way way out back for its proper burning! anything yall????


does this sound like a plan fellas????
LOL

One bad injector is not going to make your truck do what you decribe.. If your truck is cold it is not uncommon for injector sticktion to make it look like the injector is bad and will show an unbalance.. I don't understand how you brought them a four pin FICM that they repaired and you wound up with a 7 pin..
 

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I Just Break Stuff
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LOL

One bad injector is not going to make your truck do what you decribe.. If your truck is cold it is not uncommon for injector sticktion to make it look like the injector is bad and will show an unbalance.. I don't understand how you brought them a four pin FICM that they repaired and you wound up with a 7 pin..
They repaired it alright.:doh:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ok, so had ficm reflashed......now have drivers side valve cover off with all 4 injectors out and halfway thru passenger side but cant get last bottom two 27mm bolts out of oil rail that ac evaporator has covered up...any hints as to not removing that evaporator? maybe a special tool? going ahead and replacing all 8 injectors and installing egr delete...just cant get any farther without those two torx bits still there.... thanks!
 

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I Just Break Stuff
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I use an alen wrench shaped torx.Helps get in the tight spots.
 
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