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I'm having issues with my FICM on my late 04 Powerstroke. A crank/no start situation. We hooked a diagnostic tool up and I was getting 0 voltage to my logic board side or power supply board side of the FICM (12v in or 48v out). I tapped the top of the FICM with a 3/8 drive ratchet and all of the sudden I had voltage across the board. The truck fired up and seemed to run fine. I pulled the FICM out and found that one of the square transistors on the power supply board had broken off and was rattling around inside the unit. I have a replacement Tech Smart power supply board on order. My question is, would a failed power supply board affect the logic board voltage as well or do I likely have other issues that I need to be looking at?
 

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In short, yes. If the power supply board is messed up, it could be giving voltage feedback into the logic board due to a failed diode, or who knows what else that chip might have been. Every case is different, but it's a good possibility.

Also, I see you already have a replacement part on order, but consider sending your whole FICM off to Ed at ficmrepair.com...or doing a FICM swap with him. I definitely understand needing to stay inexpensive with parts, but the FICM is one area we want to spend a little extra when you can.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
In short, yes. If the power supply board is messed up, it could be giving voltage feedback into the logic board due to a failed diode, or who knows what else that chip might have been. Every case is different, but it's a good possibility.

Also, I see you already have a replacement part on order, but consider sending your whole FICM off to Ed at ficmrepair.com...or doing a FICM swap with him. I definitely understand needing to stay inexpensive with parts, but the FICM is one area we want to spend a little extra when you can.
Thanks for the reply. I been doing a lot of reading on different forms about FICM repair and Ed's name and website comes up a lot. He seems to have a good reputation. I would like to try and make the repair myself, but if it keeps giving me issues, I will reach out to Ed for repairs. As of now, I have the tech smart power supply board as well as the FICM relay that I am going to replace. My biggest fear is a short or chaffed wire somewhere in the harness. I've read that that can be a nightmare to trubleshoot
 

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I definitely recommend Ed at FICM repair! My early 04 started acting weird, did my reading, got a ScanGuage, monitored everything and was getting LOW voltage at FICM. I received it quickly, and wouldn't you know it, it was bad......I called Ed, we troubleshot it together and came to the same conclusion. He overnighted another one to me, no charge. Mind you, I hadn't returned my core yet, so I now have 3 FICMs. Anyhow, point being, FICM is a good move, and Ed is a solid guy. Best of luck.
 

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I definitely recommend Ed at FICM repair! My early 04 started acting weird, did my reading, got a ScanGuage, monitored everything and was getting LOW voltage at FICM. I received it quickly, and wouldn't you know it, it was bad......I called Ed, we troubleshot it together and came to the same conclusion. He overnighted another one to me, no charge. Mind you, I hadn't returned my core yet, so I now have 3 FICMs. Anyhow, point being, FICM is a good move, and Ed is a solid guy. Best of luck.
I ended up contacting Ed and did the FICM exchange. I got a new FICM with upgraded components, a 2 year warranty and the Atlas 40 tune. Apparently the old FICM has had issues for a while because it was night and day difference once the new FICM was installed. Ed also talked me into a higher output alternator since he said that a failing alternator will damage a FICM rather quickly. Truck is currently running great
 

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Glad Ed took care of you! He always does. And yes, electrical can bite you in the arse easily on these trucks. My recommendation on electrical is when the time comes to change out your batteries, pay a little more and get some AGM batteries....just not the Optima. They're way over rated. Just a standard die-hard, interstate, durastart, etc will be fine. The hold a charge much better and don't create issues with poor conductivity when the connections corrode, because they don't vent acid to create the corrosion in the first place. After that, do whats called the big-3 or big 4 (depending on what you feel like doing) which is essentially adding a couple extra wires between battery and frame, battery and alt, etc, and you will have a nice, solid electrical system that shouldn't fail you. Myself, I replaced all stock cables with 2/0 cables, and then upgraded the starter wire and motor ground wire with 4/0. Overkill? Perhaps, but I don't have any more issues and my starter now spins so fast it feels like I've got some custom starter under there. lol
 
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