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Discussion Starter #1
I have a late model 04 F250 and i am upgrading the injectors and fuel system currently. i was wondering if the FASS fuel sump worth the headache, i know how nasty a fuel tank can get and how much water they will truly hold over time and never drain which leads to aiding in microbiology growth. i plan on completely scrubbing out all the growth and draining all the water... i hope that putting in the sump kit will make it harder for growth in the tank and eliminate all water in the tank being a "sump". but again is this truly worth my time in the long run?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
so i bit the bullet and will be installing the sump kit in my truck along with a 220GPH FASS system. while i have been waiting for the parts to show i went ahead and dropped the tank along with drilling the holes for the sump and bulkhead fitting.

I used thoroughbred diesels, video to guide me. they did the install on a dodge and my god am i glad that the ford is SOOO much easier... you will not need to fiddle with a fuel basket and there will be no issues as to getting the draw straw out of the way or in a position. you will literally be able to attach the sump, fitting, draw straw and then drop in the fuel sending unit.....

i will have pictures and steps to come hopefully by Wednesday.
 

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man that sump install was a pain in my arse.... so much to the point that i forgot to take photos. but i do have some pointers for those who wish to do this install.

1) for the sump itself, if you are going to buy a FASS system or already have one installed, you only need to buy the sump with the sump, tube, bending straw and thats it, you do not need the completed sump with bulkhead fitting, the fass system comes with a bulkhead fitting...

2) when installing the Sump, the fuel tank has an indention on it as to where the lowest part is, how you can tell is there is an injection molding mark, use that mark as to where the center of the whole should be, also it puts it perfectly under the stock pickup tube.

3) if you watch videos on youtube and you have seen the ThoroughBreed diesel video if the install on a dodge, it is pretty much the same except you do not have to drill holes in a fuel basket... 6.0's do not have one....

4) when dropping the tank, dont worry about breaking lines and ripping wires out if you cannot get them undone before loosening the tank straps... the stock lines and wiring harness for the fuel sending unit are long enough to drop it, i did this to mine with a 3" lift and the tank hit the ground with all connected and it didnt damage a thing.... the lines you do need to remove before dropping the tank are the fuel filler hose and vent hose.

5) when dropping the tank, loosen and remove the front strap first.... to get the strap out of the way with out damaging anything, you should slide it to the front of the vehicle and it will be able to clear the drive shaft to come out... then move to the rear strap and remove the bolt closest to the dive shaft. the tank at this point will want to rotate out due to the rear strap being on a hinge.. the front of the tank will hit the ground but the rear wont. this is why you wont damage any lines or wires when dropping the tank. the rear strap will keep it elevated enough to not pull the lines or wires.....

6) to get the tank out from under the truck and rear strap, keep the tank rotated in the rear strap like it wants to be (after the bolt is removed, you will understand), and just slide the tank to the front of the truck and it will fall right out....

7) if you have fuel in the tank. do not worry about spilling any out of the filler neck after its been disconnected, there are check valves in it and there are check valves on every vent, port, line, etc.. that are on the tank. the only way i was able to empty my tank was by literally dumping it after the fuel sending unit was out and i had to use that hole.

8) for placement of the bulk head fitting. there honestly is no good place to install it... i put mine next to the fuel sending unit on the front side left side of the tank roughly 1030/11 o clock (front of the tank would be closes to the engine, left side is the drivers side of the tank). after installing the full FASS system, i might actually have tried to put it to the driver side rear of the sending unit, but if you go this route be very cautious, the fuel float is positioned to the rear and needs to be able to move freely. the reason i would have tried to put the bulkhead to the rear is due to the fuel lines going to the FASS pump cannot be bent, the hoses will collapse if turned more that 30 degrees in a tight spot. if you have to bend a FASS fuel hose it needs to be gradual and have plenty of room.

9) when installing the sump, like literally going to bolt it down... the fuel sending unit doesn't need to be placed in the tank so then you get to fiddle F**K trying to get the half circle hold downs in place. due to not having a fuel basket and if you mount the bulkhead fitting to the front of the tank like i did, the flex straw and draw straw will not be in the way of the fuel sending unit arm....

10) when installing the fuel hose to nipples, the fass directions tell you to attach the hose to the nipples before you attach the nipples to the bulk head, pump, stock lines, etc.... dont listen to them!!!!! once the lines are attached they are not removable, they are by cutting the hose off but you dont have much access hose to play there BS games.... first attach the nipple to what ever it needs to go to, then push the line on, and lube up the inside of the hose and nipple so it is easier....

11) this i do believe goes with out saying, but measure 10 times, cut once... i didnt have an issue with F**KING anything up cause i did just that, measured 10 times and cut once.

12) when installing the wiring harness, they will have you cut the power wire to the stock fuel/water/particle separator. this is fine but the directions depict it being a green wire, that is INCORRECT!!! use a volt meter to find the correct one. i have a late model 04 and mine was the red with a black stripe....

13) when they have you disconnect all of the fuel lines from the fuel water separator, if the line is not being used buy the FASS system, reconnect it.... it still leads to your fuel tank and you dont want crud getting into it. they tell you to leave all of them off....

14) when installing the fass system, it is very hard to distinguish, which fitting is which and where they go. i am almost positive they let a window licking engineer write the directions..... just remember, the 5/8th's hose goest from the pick up side of the bulkhead fitting then to the 90 degree elbow with the large nipple fitting attached to the elbow.... then the return line from the front of the pump, its directly under the fuel output to the motor nipple, goes to the 1/4 line off of the tank. then the E nipple gets routed up to the engine QD on the fuel water separator, it is the lower one. you retain the factory return line from the motor and the stock fuel water separator is bypassed.

15) i hope this helps you and i wish i had this before i installed mine. i am pretty sure the 3 year old next door leaned some new colorful language in the 3hrs it took to install.

Zack
 

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Discussion Starter #4
oh one more thing, i went with the 220 GPH fuel pump. if you plan on doing upgrades, you want to over shoot on fuel rather than undershoot. i will be running 190cc/100% injectors which are rated for 725 RWHP and the 220 GPH pump is rated for 900-1200 RWHP. the 200 GPH pump was rated for 600-900. but for $60~ more, you get the added 20 more GPH. i dont know if these will be my final injectors so instead of shooting myself in the foot latter down the road i figured i would get the larger fuel pump.
 
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