Fan wires severed | What will happen?

234 Views 16 Replies 4 Participants Last post by 6.0DieselBro, 9 h ago

6.0DieselBro

Discussion Starter · 16 d ago

Fan caught the electric clutch wires and chewed it up so bad that the harness is destroyed on the fan side and the truck side. Is it okay to drive like that for now? What can I replace it with? There’s not enough leftover wire to repair the existing harness.

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bismic1

· #2 · 16 d ago (Edited)

That can short out PCM power and cause a no-crank from low or no voltage. Might also blow PCM fuse F2.22. Also - who would want to run without any cooling?

6.0DieselBro

Discussion Starter · #3 · 15 d ago

bismic1 said:
That can short out PCM power and cause a no-crank. Also - who would want to run without any cooling?

What are my options for repair?

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bismic1

· #4 · 15 d ago (Edited)

Fan Clutch connector - female (clutch side)
Definitely WPT-1045 fits all MY's. 1U2Z-14S411-AHC is also correct

Fan Clutch connector - male (engine side)
WPT-1136. also 1U2Z-14S411-AKB

I believe that the link below is one of the ones described above.

1U2Z-14S411-AKB 1U2Z14S411AKB Genuine Ford Part

Ford part # 1U2Z-14S411-AKB 1U2Z14S411AKB, Base part # 14S411, $38.08 online at FordPartsGiant.com. Wholesale-priced and fast-delivered Ford parts Wire Assembly.

www.fordpartsgiant.com

www.fordpartsgiant.com

There is an attachment point on the Stator that keeps the harness out of the way of the blades. If the stator is gone, you need to make your own "protection system". I just drilled a hole and added a grommet.

Here is mine

You may need a new fan clutch.

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2

6.0DieselBro

Discussion Starter · #5 · 15 d ago

bismic1 said:
Fan Clutch connector - female (clutch side)
Definitely WPT-1045 fits all MY's. 1U2Z-14S411-AHC is also correct

Fan Clutch connector - male (engine side)
WPT-1136. also 1U2Z-14S411-AKB

I believe that the link below is one of the ones described above.

1U2Z-14S411-AKB 1U2Z14S411AKB Genuine Ford Part

Ford part # 1U2Z-14S411-AKB 1U2Z14S411AKB, Base part # 14S411, $38.08 online at FordPartsGiant.com. Wholesale-priced and fast-delivered Ford parts Wire Assembly.

www.fordpartsgiant.com

There is an attachment point on the Stator that keeps the harness out of the way of the blades. If the stator is gone, you need to make your own "protection system". I just drilled a hole and added a grommet.

Here is mine

View attachment 208622

View attachment 208623

You may need a new fan clutch.

I’m considering the 7.3 fan clutch and taping off the wires for the electric clutch because it chewed off so much wire I can’t get a wire connector in there, let alone 6 wire connectors.

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Reactions: 1

bismic1

· #6 · 15 d ago

That would work!

cfherrman

· #7 · 15 d ago

I drove without a fan for two years, ac cuts out at a stop and I didn't tow anything. This was just a pickup if your truck is equipment it will be different.

bismic1

· #8 · 15 d ago (Edited)

You can't do it long on a 6.0L and maintain reliability!!! Especially if the EGR system is still "working".

A leading cause of leaks in the high pressure oil system (on the 04.5+ engines especially), is o-rings leaking. I think the MAIN root cause for that is the oil temperature. Nitrile (Buna N) is good to only 250*F. The oil temp we monitor (EOT) is IMMEDIATELY after the cooler, so we KNOW that the oil temp gets quite a bit hotter through the HPOP (heat of compression is significant). Temperature control is BIG in our engines!

Personally, I think lifter issues are related to oil viscosity and film strength (and a few others like Extreme Pressure resistance), and those are also negatively impacted by elevated oil and engine temperatures.

Also (not part of this thread), you MUST keep fuel dilution of the oil under control also for proper lubrication and protection. This is the main reason I get an oil analysis every change!

I sure loved my old 6.9L Ford!

Ahh, the good old days!!

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6.0DieselBro

Discussion Starter · #9 · 15 d ago

bismic1 said:
You can't do it long on a 6.0L and maintain reliability!!! Especially if the EGR system is still "working".

A leading cause of leaks in the high pressure oil system (on the 04.5+ engines especially), is o-rings leaking. I think the MAIN root cause for that is the oil temperature. Nitrile (Buna N) is good to only 250*F. The oil temp we monitor (EOT) is IMMEDIATELY after the cooler, so we KNOW that the oil temp gets quite a bit hotter through the HPOP (heat of compression is significant). Temperature control is BIG in our engines!

Personally, I think lifter issues are related to oil viscosity and film strength (and a few others like Extreme Pressure resistance), and those are also negatively impacted by elevated oil and engine temperatures.

Also (not part of this thread), you MUST keep fuel dilution of the oil under control also for proper lubrication and protection. This is the main reason I get an oil analysis every change!

I sure loved my old 6.9L Ford!

Ahh, the good old days!!

To add to your oil dilution statement: rolling coal is excess unburnt fuel that’s going to wash the cylinders and get pushed into the crank case. So if you’re rolling coal, you need to change your tuning, or change your injector configuration.

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HydroTek

· #10 · 15 d ago

Cut the jacket open on the harness and get to the wires -- make a new plug
Do you have any wire left on the fan clutch ?
make up the length needed , and add a piece of plastic tubing to keep the wires out of the fan

Fan shroud missing or broken ?
that is what controls the top of the fan harness

** if you decide to repair the harness -- be aware that the wire colors on the truck harness , and the colors on the fan harness do not match up **

you can use a connector like this

DT Series Connectors | DeutschConnector.com

Deutsch DT Series Connectors feature rectangular housing with silicone rubber seals and are rated at 13 amps continuous.

www.deutschconnector.com

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bismic1

· #11 · 15 d ago (Edited)

The reason I called it the stator is because ford calls them inner and outer shrouds. That's confusing IMO.

The Inner Shroud is the Stator:

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/R7UAAOSwXCFkPZyF/s-l300.png

As opposed to the "Outer Shroud":

2003-2007 Ford Fan Shroud 3C3Z-8146-AJ | TascaParts.com

2003-2007 Ford part # 3C3Z-8146-AJ - Fan Shroud

www.tascaparts.com

You can see where the fan clutch wiring is supposed to attach in the pics of the Inner Shroud (Stator). Lots of people have removed this and had to adjust for supporting the wiring. There have been NO substantiated problems cause by the removal of this stator from ANYTHING that I have seen.

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cfherrman

· #12 · 14 d ago

bismic1 said:
You can't do it long on a 6.0L and maintain reliability!!! Especially if the EGR system is still "working".

A leading cause of leaks in the high pressure oil system (on the 04.5+ engines especially), is o-rings leaking. I think the MAIN root cause for that is the oil temperature. Nitrile (Buna N) is good to only 250*F. The oil temp we monitor (EOT) is IMMEDIATELY after the cooler, so we KNOW that the oil temp gets quite a bit hotter through the HPOP (heat of compression is significant). Temperature control is BIG in our engines!

Personally, I think lifter issues are related to oil viscosity and film strength (and a few others like Extreme Pressure resistance), and those are also negatively impacted by elevated oil and engine temperatures.

Also (not part of this thread), you MUST keep fuel dilution of the oil under control also for proper lubrication and protection. This is the main reason I get an oil analysis every change!

I sure loved my old 6.9L Ford!

Ahh, the good old days!!

It never got over like 190-200 even in traffic with ac on. idk it's been awhile I was really broke at that time but if you have other parts missing and extremely great condition engine it worked for me.

bismic1

· #13 · 14 d ago

Hmm. The only way to remove heat is air flow. Traffic speeds just aren't much to depend on. I hear you on "reducing the heat load activity" though. Ambient temperatures play a HUGE role. Maybe in the cold climates it is possible at times. Not in the hot parts of Arizona and Texas, etc, anyway.

With the thermostat working and fan on "control", you are at 194-196 (book set point for ECT). I can't see that it would run cooler without the fan, but again - ambient temps are probably huge!

People don't understand that oil can remove 30%+ of the heat. Then that heat needs to be removed. It is not wise to mess with the chance of running hot. EOT's are AFTER the cooler, so who knows how hot the oil is getting! Of course some people think of reliability way different than others. I am one to expect 300k miles from every vehicle. Most of us understand running short on funds though.

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6.0DieselBro

Discussion Starter · #14 · 13 d ago

HydroTek said:
Cut the jacket open on the harness and get to the wires -- make a new plug
Do you have any wire left on the fan clutch ?
make up the length needed , and add a piece of plastic tubing to keep the wires out of the fan

Fan shroud missing or broken ?
that is what controls the top of the fan harness

** if you decide to repair the harness -- be aware that the wire colors on the truck harness , and the colors on the fan harness do not match up **

you can use a connector like this

DT Series Connectors | DeutschConnector.com

Deutsch DT Series Connectors feature rectangular housing with silicone rubber seals and are rated at 13 amps continuous.

www.deutschconnector.com

I have the outer shroud still in good shape. I had removed the inner shroud because it made it impossible to change the fan belt. I have it so that the fan is shrouded all the way around, but nothing behind it. Works like a charm, and makes changing the fan belt a lot easier.

I ended up going with the mechanical clutch because my wiring knowledge and skill is limited, and this is certainly not something I have leeway to screw up.

Reactions: 1

6.0DieselBro

Discussion Starter · #15 · 12 h ago

So far I love the 7.3 fan clutch.

My engine routinely hit 235 EOT before the electromechanical fan would finally kick on and bring it down to 200-ish. Then the fan would disengage and the EOT would go right back up. All that heat and temperature flocculation is hell on an engine. I've had two tuners try to fix it, it never worked. I haven't seen EOTs over 200 in the 1000 miles I've been running it with the viscous clutch.

I also removed the inner fan shroud while I was in there, and modified the outer shroud to fully cover the fan without the inner shroud installed. That way the fan is still covered providing cooling benefits, and I can access the belt and pulleys on the front of the engine much easier.

For anyone considering the same thing: It will be loud at first, but it takes time for it to break-in. And so far I haven't seen any fuel mileage loss, probably because the engine is running better not being so hot all the time.

And by the way, JESUS LOVES YOU!

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cfherrman

· #16 · 11 h ago

Even though the fan pulls a ton of HP it doesn't really pull that much mpg. When my fan clutch went bad it was stuck on all the time and I drove it for like a week like that and it only pulled 1-2 mpg. I removed the fan as I did not want it to blow up and take out everything. That's when I drove with no fan for 2 years. I bought a junk truck and pulled the fan off it and it's still in my truck.

6.0DieselBro

Discussion Starter · #17 · 9 h ago

cfherrman said:
Even though the fan pulls a ton of HP it doesn't really pull that much mpg. When my fan clutch went bad it was stuck on all the time and I drove it for like a week like that and it only pulled 1-2 mpg. I removed the fan as I did not want it to blow up and take out everything. That's when I drove with no fan for 2 years. I bought a junk truck and pulled the fan off it and it's still in my truck.

Indeed. And the most power loss will happen very high in the rpm range. I have a manual transmission, so I can keep rpm’s very low. Thus my power and mpg loss is basically zero.

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