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1995 F350 7.3 regular cab
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95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I’m returning as soon as I got fuel figured

Truck felt like something was holding it back when driving or at any point.

After jacking the truck up front wheels doesn’t seem to move freely. New callipers ( they look rusted because it’s been sitting for 2 months but they are new ) on both sides, rotors too and pads about 90%.
I cracked the bleeder on the calliper and nothing is coming out. I took the brake hose coming from the calliper and nothing coming out. Master cylinder is full. Both from wheels are not spinning freely at all and I can see the calliper is expended.
Correct me if I’m wrong but the calliper need to have pressure to expend right so if I have no I’ll going to it how are they opening?

when I installed the callipers we have bled the air from both sides but They never seemed to spin freely at all unless I take everything off except the rotors and it spins.
I did have a bad check valve at the Brake booster a while back.

thank you
204321
 

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PSN intsigator
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7,447 Posts
Replace the rubber brake hose, at what point in the line do you have oil coming out. With and without the pedal being depressed. Do without first to find the blockage
 

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Something to try first... You need to have 2 people... one in the cab to lean on the brake petal and one outside to run back and forth bleeding the brakes. So I have the person on the brake push it in while I loosen the bleed nut on the side farthest from the master cylinder. Just don't let them release the brake petal before you have the bleed screw tightened up again. Repeat till you have fluid with few or no bubbles.

Cj
 

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1995 F350 7.3 regular cab
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95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Found broken brake line on the T on the driver side. I did get new hoses for the callipers and go ahead and installed them…
Question: the part that was broken , can that be cut down and re flared ? I only have refrigeration flaring tool .
 

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do yourself a favor and replace that line. it is old and crusty and will only break again soon.
i use the nickle/copper lines from napa. super easy to bend by hand and they will never rust or rot out.
 

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1995 F350 7.3 regular cab
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95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
do yourself a favor and replace that line. it is old and crusty and will only break again soon.
i use the nickle/copper lines from napa. super easy to bend by hand and they will never rust or rot out.
Thank you. I will get the right tubing but for now I did used the same to see if it’s that and only thing…
I can’t get the air out it’s like it’s unlimited….
Do I need to an actual vacuum pump or my master cylinder might took a crap too?
 

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1995 F350 7.3 regular cab
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95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i gravity bleed.
never have any issues.
I did do Gravity bleed in the rear but can I do it on the front?
For some reason no matter how long I bleed there still air…
I did get as much as I could out but the front wheels don’t wanted to fully freely spin , they spin but definitely not 100 percent free
 

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once you step on the pedal, the fronts will not free spin.
this is on an OBS with rear drum brakes, rite?
drum brakes have springs to collapse the wheel cylinders and pull the shoes off the drums.
so they will free spin.
disc brakes only relieve pressure on the caliper pistons, so the pads are always in contact with the rotors causing a slight drag.
 

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1995 F350 7.3 regular cab
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95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
once you step on the pedal, the fronts will not free spin.
this is on an OBS with rear drum brakes, rite?
drum brakes have springs to collapse the wheel cylinders and pull the shoes off the drums.
so they will free spin.
disc brakes only relieve pressure on the caliper pistons, so the pads are always in contact with the rotors causing a slight drag.
10-4 so I’m most likely good then
 
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