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Hello All,
I'm new to PowerstrokeNation but not 6.0L's. I got a problem with my '04 F250 6.0L that I've been dealing with for some time and it has me stumped. The oil temperature has gotten extreme in the delta with the water temp. The current delta is 80° (water 188°-195° & oil as high as 272°) while pulling my camper. Daily driving the oil temps go up to around 220° or so. All temperature readings coming from a ScangageII

The only hard use the truck gets is pulling my 28' 5ver a couple of times a year, other than that it's just a daily driver to work and town.

Before you jump to the obvious solutions, please read all that I've done to the truck over the last 3 years.

Here's the rundown on the history and repairs I've made
240,000 miles Sept 2011 - Purchased, no prior history available

241,600 miles Jan 2012 - Blue spring fuel regulator upgrade, replace thermostat

- Started seeing higher engine oil temperatures, around 230°, because of this....

242,500 miles May 2012 - Replaced oil cooler, Sinister Diesel EGR delete, turbo rebuild, Dieselsite coolant filter, coolant flush (before replacement of oil cooler), CCV reroute

- Engine oil temperatures still high, oil cooler replacement did not solve and I cut open old cooler, not plugged. After trip from Ohio to Sturgis SD, saw temps of 250°. I started questioning temperature readings so I ....

246,300 miles August 2012 - replaced EOT sensor

- Truck started to run horrible, had a local diesel shop diagnose as leaking head gaskets, truck was mostly parked until....

247,500 miles December 2013 - new head gaskets, ARP studs, heads milled, new injectors, new IPR, new HPOP, new pushrods, new water pump. Note, while HPOP was out and could see last 2 cam lobes, they were blue like they have been overheated.

- Truck runs good now but oil temps still high, I installed a second oil temperature gage in a billet oil filter cap, temps here confirmed my ScangageII readings as high (though 5°-10° cooler)

I am currently on a camping trip and saw oil temperatures as high as 272° while water temps stayed normal. Seems like everytime I take the camper out, the temperatures get higher than the previous time, keeps climbing. My previous thinking was "why wasn't the oil getting cooled" but now my thinking is "what is causing the oil temperatures to get so high" Since I've been all
through the top end, what's left? The bottom end? The oil pump?

I'm about ready to get rid of the truck. I got a trip planned from Ohio to Niagara Falls and back down into PA and am half scared to take the truck.

What do you think? Any ideas?

Thank in advance
knuss3807
 

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Fixing Broken Stuff
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What do you think? Any ideas?

I think your oil cooler is plugging up again, temp reading don't lie and you changed the EOT sender to confirm this.
So, your oil cooler has some small passages and it acting like a filter, you may have changed it but you didn't get the rest of the "garbage" out of the cooling system and finds it's way to the cooler. I've seen some some engines with the heads off and if you stick a screwdriver down the water jacket it comes out with "cooling system sludge" all over the tip. So if that sludge doesn't get cleaned out it's just going to plug the new oil cooler.
I recently seen a engine that had blown head gaskets, when I pulled the heads it was nasty with "cooling system sludge" some of the passages in the head gaskets were even plugged, I stuck a screw driver down the water jacket and the bottom of water jackets were just full of "sludge" I told the owner that his best bet was to buy a re-man from the dealer, which is what he ended up doing.
A this point I would use some Motorcraft VC9 flush, VC9 is the best and I confirmed this by pulling the MSDS sheet to see what chemicals are it and comparing it to the other flushes on the market, actually I had a M.I.T. PhD read them and tell me.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What do you think? Any ideas?

I think your oil cooler is plugging up again, temp reading don't lie and you changed the EOT sender to confirm this.
So, your oil cooler has some small passages and it acting like a filter, you may have changed it but you didn't get the rest of the "garbage" out of the cooling system and finds it's way to the cooler. I've seen some some engines with the heads off and if you stick a screwdriver down the water jacket it comes out with "cooling system sludge" all over the tip. So if that sludge doesn't get cleaned out it's just going to plug the new oil cooler.
I recently seen a engine that had blown head gaskets, when I pulled the heads it was nasty with "cooling system sludge" some of the passages in the head gaskets were even plugged, I stuck a screw driver down the water jacket and the bottom of water jackets were just full of "sludge" I told the owner that his best bet was to buy a re-man from the dealer, which is what he ended up doing.
A this point I would use some Motorcraft VC9 flush, VC9 is the best and I confirmed this by pulling the MSDS sheet to see what chemicals are it and comparing it to the other flushes on the market, actually I had a M.I.T. PhD read them and tell me.
I understand your logic on the oil cooler but in my case I disagree. The reason is that 2 yrs ago when I first started seeing higher EOTs, I did a thorough VC9 flush then replaced the oil cooler with an OEM unit, EGR delete and added a Dieselsite coolant filter. NO CHANGES IN THE EOTs, still high. For sh*ts and giggles, I cut open the old cooler and it was not plugged.

It has been mentioned to me that the oil cooler bypass is probably sticking. Any thoughts on that?
 

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It has been mentioned to me that the oil cooler bypass is probably sticking. Any thoughts on that?


I've never heard of a " engine oil cooler bypass", I don't see how it could be possible.Transmissions have a oil cooler bypass on these trucks.
When you cut your cooler in half did you flow water through it?
I have cut some oil coolers in half, then tried to flow water though it and they were 100% plugged with about 45-60psi of water pressure.
How does your heater work? Those also can get plugged up, I've flushed a lot of them with VC9 or CLR and it worked. I was thinking maybe a oil cooler could be cleaned in a ultra-sonic tank, so I asked the M.I.T. PhD and he said it will work and to use VC9 or the CLR in the tank.
 

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Another interesting thread on this topic.

I didn't see you mention it, but have you tried a "Delta Kit?" I'm in a similar boat, but not nearly as bad. I see up to 230° F EOT while no higher than 205° F ECT. New oil cooler less than 500 miles ago, and a stupid extensive flush (including oil cooler backflush multiple times) starting before I even ran it. There is no way my oil cooler is even 2% clogged.

Also, what about a water pump? I may replace mine just to be sure.
 

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You can boost coolant flow through the OEM oil cooler by connecting the oil cooler outlet to the line coming off the bottom of the degas bottle which is basically the suction side of the water pump. The normal way is for the coolant to enter the hot side header which then gets pushed through the rad. Of the couple guys I know that have done this they have seen a few degree drop in oil temperature even though it's introducing hot coolant into the "cold" side header. Another option is to install an electric booster pump on the coolant outlet of the oil cooler. Not the ideal way to run a booster pump but it does increase the flow.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It has been mentioned to me that the oil cooler bypass is probably sticking. Any thoughts on that?


I've never heard of a " engine oil cooler bypass", I don't see how it could be possible.Transmissions have a oil cooler bypass on these trucks.
When you cut your cooler in half did you flow water through it?
I have cut some oil coolers in half, then tried to flow water though it and they were 100% plugged with about 45-60psi of water pressure.
How does your heater work? Those also can get plugged up, I've flushed a lot of them with VC9 or CLR and it worked. I was thinking maybe a oil cooler could be cleaned in a ultra-sonic tank, so I asked the M.I.T. PhD and he said it will work and to use VC9 or the CLR in the tank.
I did not flow water though the old one but I did cut it open and visually it was not plugged. The new cooler did not solve it. I had VC9'd the system before installing the new cooler. My heater works just fine.

Are these extreme temps seen only when pulling the camper?
Yes. Daily driving will EOTs around 210° - 220°

Another interesting thread on this topic.

I didn't see you mention it, but have you tried a "Delta Kit?" I'm in a similar boat, but not nearly as bad. I see up to 230° F EOT while no higher than 205° F ECT. New oil cooler less than 500 miles ago, and a stupid extensive flush (including oil cooler backflush multiple times) starting before I even ran it. There is no way my oil cooler is even 2% clogged.

Also, what about a water pump? I may replace mine just to be sure.
What's a "Delta Kit"?

Water pump was replaced this winter when I did the head gaskets and ARP studs

The bypass valve was replaced today and in comparing the old vs the new, there was no discernible difference. The spring tension was the same, the rubber washer was in good shape.
I pulled my camper on a 30 mile test drive and temperatures are back up again, albeit not quite as high as last time. EOTs were 240° - 245° with a high of 248°. Still way to high, IMO. Ambient air temps were a bit lower today.
I hope someone has another idea soon. I got a camping trip to Niagara Falls area in 3 weeks.
 

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Alright, I'll swap information with you.

What's a "Delta Kit"?
Term3 pretty much hit this one on the head, but here is the link to the "master" thread:

6.0 Delta line kit

This is (apparently) an updated version of the kit:

NEW! Absolute 6.0 Delta kit

It seems pretty easy to put together the original version of the kit for a few dollars from local auto parts store parts.

The bypass valve was replaced today and in comparing the old vs the new, there was no discernible difference.
I'm very interested. Where is this bypass valve you speak of? Please enlighten me. Like was mentioned, I didn't think there was a bypass valve around the oil cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alright, I'll swap information with you.



Term3 pretty much hit this one on the head, but here is the link to the "master" thread:

6.0 Delta line kit

This is (apparently) an updated version of the kit:

NEW! Absolute 6.0 Delta kit

It seems pretty easy to put together the original version of the kit for a few dollars from local auto parts store parts.



I'm very interested. Where is this bypass valve you speak of? Please enlighten me. Like was mentioned, I didn't think there was a bypass valve around the oil cooler.
As with any cooling kit, I feel like I would be treating the symptoms and not the cause. For the driving & towing I'm doing, there is no reason why the stock oil cooler should not keep things cool.

The bypass valve is located in the bottom inside of the oil filter housing. 2 torx screws remove it. Be careful, it under spring tension and you do NOT want screws to go down into the drain holes. I was not aware of this either until someone on another forum told me about it. The problem with it is that you can't just buy the bypass valve, you have to buy the whole upper cooler assembly. Spend $200 for a $5 part.
 

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What about an after market oil cooler. bulletproof or one of the others. I have some stock 6.0 oil coolers if you`ll pay shipping I`ll send you one. I took these off to install bulletproof`s. Bill
 

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What about an after market oil cooler. bulletproof or one of the others. I have some stock 6.0 oil coolers if you`ll pay shipping I`ll send you one. I took these off to install bulletproof`s. Bill
Thanks for the offer but at this time I'll pass. I will definitely keep this in mind.
 

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knuss3807 hasn't logged on since 2014.
 

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I’m in other forums of different interests that I have. When I have a problem I always try to go back to my thread and give an update.
 
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