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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys: Finally got done with the flexplate and up-pipe job what fun that was !!!!! At least the trans was out at that time. I got both manifolds today and the gaskets. Should I go with new bolts from ford and junk all the old ones if they come out in 1 piece ? Any other tips or tricks in making this job any easier with the least broken parts ? I know I should have done it with the trans out but ran out of time and needed the truck back running ? The drivers side manifold is leaking badly so im sure new stuff will help with EGT's ?

Thanks in Advance !
 

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Busy Busy
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Heat, time and patience and hope you don't break any. Otherwise pull engine.

I usually pull the engine and smack on either a 1/2" impact or 12mm depending upon which bolt it is. I soak everything in pb blaster, hammer on socket, heat up head, try to break it loose. If it doesn't work, repeat steps until it works or breaks bolt off.

Hopefully it breaks off in manifold if it breaks and not flush with the head. if it breaks off in manifold use a die grinder or sawsall to cut manifold off. Then try vice grips to spin the stud out. If that doesn't work weld a nut on the stud. All the while you need to be cycling heat, pb blaster and tapping it with a hammer.

If it breaks off flush with the head then you have to drill it out. I usually use left handed cobalt drill bits in the case you get lucky enough that it will spin itself out. I used to use easy outs but if they break off in the head they become almost impossible to drill the bolt out.

This is all why I normally just pull the engine and do this on the stand.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well thats the answer I needed but was not looking foward too ! I have to agree 100% but what do you think the odds are of the wrost case scenario happening ? It has about 130,000 miles on it all original. I was hoping to do this without pulling the engine because that would kill my business.
 

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2 tricks I will pass on you.
First is to just a sawzall and you can get the blade behind the manifold and cut most but not all bolts off as there is space back there to cut them. By cutting the bolts then the manifold will fall off and then just use vice grips to un thread them. I remove the inner fender well for the room.

Second trick that I do is being that you are replacing them, just use a air chisel on the manifold where bolt holes are and the air chisel will shatter the manifold in seconds and it will fall off and again use vice grips to just un thread them . They will unthread easy when not seized in the manifold
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thats a good idea considering I am not trying to save the manifolds. So you are saying air chisel the manifolds first to break them apart and then sawsall or just one or the other ? Also anyone know the Ford part numbers for the exhaust manifold bolts of International numbers ?
 

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one or the other. I sawzalled most of them and air chisseled the ones i could not cut but the air chissel would be the quickest being u are not saving them
 

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STILL LEARNING
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I am curios why you manifold are leaking.

The only time I have seen them leaking was broken manifold bolts
 

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I am curios why you manifold are leaking.

The only time I have seen them leaking was broken manifold bolts
remember the rusted plow truck i have with stuck 4x4 shifter??
the manifolds rusted out from salt on bottom where salt kept hitting them
 

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remember the rusted plow truck i have with stuck 4x4 shifter??
the manifolds rusted out from salt on bottom where salt kept hitting them
But he is in CA the land of NO SALT or rust
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The drivers side manifold is leaking at the rear cylinder with a loud tick, and I was thinking the bolts maybe loose but I was nervous of trying to tighten them and having them break like I heard of. I just got done doing the up-pipes and flexplate so that is all thats left. The oil filter and bottom back part of the block is covered in soot !!
 

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Busy Busy
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Hope no bolts ARE stuck in the head for you and that none break off flush in head. I can almost always get all of the bolts out and reuse the manifold if there is no warpage beyond .15"
 

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lots of times the bolts are seized in manifold and by cutting them with sawzall behind the manifold, the seized part of bolt falls out with manifold and the rest of bolt can be turned out with vice grips. There is enough of a gap to easily get sawzall blade in there and cut bolt close to manifold to leave enough to grab with vice grip
 

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Busy Busy
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I don't disagree. All I am saying is the bolts sometimes seize in the head or break off flush with the head and I hope that doesn't happen to the op.
 

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I did have the back bolt break off a year before I decided on replacing manifolds. After getting manifold off and inner fender removed, I was able to just drill out the bolt and use easy out on it to get it out.
 

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I don't disagree. All I am saying is the bolts sometimes seize in the head or break off flush with the head and I hope that doesn't happen to the op.
I just had to fix 3 bolts in the head of my 99 that did that. Glad I had the engine out. I couldnt even imagine trying to do it with the engine in the truck. in the stand it was hard enough. And I STILL had to helicoil the 3 holes
 

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I just had to fix 3 bolts in the head of my 99 that did that. Glad I had the engine out. I couldnt even imagine trying to do it with the engine in the truck. in the stand it was hard enough. And I STILL had to helicoil the 3 holes
Remove the inner fender and lots of room.
I repair all my construction equipment and most of the time it is in the field, not on engine stand (lol)
 

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2 tricks I will pass on you.
First is to just use a sawzall and you can get the blade behind the manifold and cut most but not all bolts off as there is space back there to cut them. By cutting the bolts then the manifold will fall off and then just use vice grips to un thread them. I remove the inner fender well for the room.
Better than Vise Grips are a set of these



Sears bolt/stud extractors.

Prior to starting the job heat cycle the manifold bolts by spraying down over a few days with WD 40 or PB Blaster.

Fairly common for the driver's rear manifold bolt heads to pop off causing a leak. Easiest fix is to get and aftermarket E gasket I put on Felpro with new bolts. Make sure you cover the bolt threats with a quality anti-seize paste on re-installation.

jrc
 

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Remove the inner fender and lots of room.
I repair all my construction equipment and most of the time it is in the field, not on engine stand (lol)
Yeah. there was no way i was able to get to the back 3 manifold bolts in the truck(even with the cab off). The only way to go about with leaving the engine in the truck, would be to pull the head. It was a cock sucker on the stand as it was. Those bolts were hard as hell. I went thru 3 bits drilling them
 

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JCART I agree that these tools work better then vice grips.
I have a set but did not need to use them. The bolts came right out after cutting bolts with sawzall flush to manifold, They were seized to manifold not the heads.
 

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Busy Busy
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I got all but 3 out today by the bolt head. Cut them and used extractor socket to remove them. Worked pretty good. Irwin vise grips wouldn't budge em.

Only thing that sucks is that even though I get the bolts out of the head.... they are still stuck in the manifold.
 
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