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Discussion Starter #1
Recent mods/jobs I've done:

Just installed a new ford water pump. At the same time, I installed a dieselsite billet thermostat housing along with upgrading to their 203 thermostat, coolant bypass filter kit, and made the switch to heavy duty ELC coolant.

What I'm noticing now:

It seems that my truck is running colder now than it was before with the old 192 thermostat and no coolant filter. I've got my coolant tested to make sure I had the right mixture,and it tested at a freezing point of -35* F, so the mixture seems good. I have no leaks either. I thought the torque app would read coolant temp, but it doesn't so I checked the oil temp with the app after driving 45 min in 47 deg weather, and the oil temp was 184.1 deg. I also know that the in dash coolant gauge is not reliable at all, but it looks to me that this is cooler than usual too. It would never get to the half way point before, but I figured it would now with the 203 tstat.

Have any of you who have installed a coolant bypass filter noticed your truck running cooler? Does a 184.1 oil temp seem to be cold for that 203 tstat? It's seeming to me that the filter kit is canceling out the benefit from the new tstat. Here's a pic of my coolant gauge after driving 45 min, and it took that whole 45 min to reach where it's at in the pic. Most of the trip it was just sitting at that first line.

 

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How does your heat feel. If it takes a while for the heat to do anything, you may still have some air in the system. I don't have the filter kit on mine yet or the 203 t-stat, but I can tell you my truck does cool down faster when I stop since I swapped to the red elc.
 

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Heat blows pretty warm. If I've got it blowing at my face, it gets hot enough to where I have to crack the window. It used to do that with the old thermostat too.

While doing the coolant flush, I couldn't locate the passenger side block drain plug, I could only find the driver side, so I couldn't completely drain all the distilled water out from the flush. When filling back up, I was able to get the 4 gallons of ELC in there along with 3 gallons of distilled water so it seems that I got the proper amount back in.
 

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Easiest way to tell... Shut off the filter for a few days and drive.

I run a 180* stat on my truck, oil temp matches the water temp on all but the hardest pulls...

Do not understand why guys go with a hotter stat...
 

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Only reason I put the hotter thermostat in was to hope for more efficient combustion, I'm not expecting any mpg gain though like some say. Like I said earlier, I just did the water pump and I wanted to go ahead and replace the thermostat while I was at it with everything off, and figured why not order one while I was already getting a couple other things from diesel site.
 

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Turn off the coolant filter and see what happens. I've never noticed an issue with it open, but who knows. It is being tapped prior to the t-stat.
 

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I'll try that next time I take it out and see what happens with the oil temp then. Just curious, what does yours run with the 180 in similiar ambient temps?
 

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Water temp will peak at 190* or so, oil temp will peak at 190* or so... There pretty much hand in hand.

Where the 180* stat shines is in the summer. I can push the thing as hard as I want and never see oil temps above 220* or so.
 

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Water temp will peak at 190* or so, oil temp will peak at 190* or so... There pretty much hand in hand.

Where the 180* stat shines is in the summer. I can push the thing as hard as I want and never see oil temps above 220* or so.
So do you think all that info on diesel site is a sales pitch? I put a 203* t stat in. I've been wondering about the oil temps though.
 

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So do you think all that info on diesel site is a sales pitch? I put a 203* t stat in. I've been wondering about the oil temps though.
Some of it yes, others no. International did originally design the motor for a 203 thermostat, and it was put to a lower temp for emission reasons, which I could care less about the emmissions part because diesels are already horrible for the environment as it is. The hotter a diesel runs, the more efficient the combustion will be. However, the mpg gain I believe is 100% a sales pitch. 1/2 mpg increase? Maybe. 4 mpg increase? No way in hell.
 

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It's seeming to me that the filter kit is canceling out the benefit from the new tstat.
If you will plumb the filter the way it should be plumbed, you won't have to wonder if it is causing an issue.
 

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Some of it yes, others no. International did originally design the motor for a 203 thermostat, and it was put to a lower temp for emission reasons, which I could care less about the emmissions part because diesels are already horrible for the environment as it is. The hotter a diesel runs, the more efficient the combustion will be. However, the mpg gain I believe is 100% a sales pitch. 1/2 mpg increase? Maybe. 4 mpg increase? No way in hell.
IH also designed the motor with a completely different HP and TQ rating, in a completely different cab configuration...

Now I have added 100% more HP to the motor then it came with from the factory, and use it for thousand mile drives pulling 8-10-12k...

The factory PCM defuels the truck when the oil temp reaches 240*... I could see temps in AZ and NM of 240-250* with a 203* stat... 230-240* with the 195* stat...
 

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IH also designed the motor with a completely different HP and TQ rating, in a completely different cab configuration...

Now I have added 100% more HP to the motor then it came with from the factory, and use it for thousand mile drives pulling 8-10-12k...

The factory PCM defuels the truck when the oil temp reaches 240*... I could see temps in AZ and NM of 240-250* with a 203* stat... 230-240* with the 195* stat...
So you don't buy into the incomplete combustion theory? Also where should I get a 180* at?
 

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I have seen cooler oil temps with the coolant filter. I cant get over 180 unless outside air is 90+. Not sure if it is related but thats what I have found.
 

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One thing you can check is the fuel dilution if you have your oil anylized. If truck is not running hot enough then you may see more fuel in oil (lower flashpoint).

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I was already planning on sending one in this next oil change for the hell of it anyways

If you will plumb the filter the way it should be plumbed, you won't have to wonder if it is causing an issue.
I plumbed mine as was shown in the directions. Removed the plug on the water pump right below the tstat, and returns the coolant to the degas bottle via a T
 

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One thing you can check is the fuel dilution if you have your oil anylized. If truck is not running hot enough then you may see more fuel in oil (lower flashpoint).

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I was already planning on sending one in this next oil change for the hell of it anyways

So you don't buy into the incomplete combustion theory? Also where should I get a 180* at?
There's no question that this is true. Myself and some colleagues at work did some tests on a pre fuel heater, running the intake through the inside of the exhaust, effectively creating a heat exchanger and experienced efficiency gains. After you get above the flash point, more heat in turn is more energy added to the fuel mixture. Of course, this is only true up to an extent,but if you you get it too hot, damage will occur. Not to mention, we were able to run 100% diesel in a gas motor doing this along with several other alternate fuels.

One difference between me and you and CSIPSD is that I live in Virginia so I have much milder weather than y'all do, so my oil temps should be lower in the summer and I don't do any extremely heavy towing either.
 

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So you don't buy into the incomplete combustion theory? Also where should I get a 180* at?
RiffRaff sells it... Along with several other vendors...

I plumbed mine as was shown in the directions. Removed the plug on the water pump right below the tstat, and returns the coolant to the degas bottle via a T

Dont mind him... Thats one of his famous one liners...

What he is getting at is your taking coolant from before the T-stat, which doesn't allow it to heat properly. Not really an issue IMHO...

You could T into one of the heater lines...
 

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I plumbed mine as was shown in the directions. Removed the plug on the water pump right below the tstat, and returns the coolant to the degas bottle via a T
Those directions are intended to make the install easy instead of operate correctly. The inlet of the filter should be connected to the heater hose that runs from the front of the head to the heater core. The outlet of the filter should be connected to the heater hose that runs from the heater core to the top of the water pump.
 

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Those directions are intended to make the install easy instead of operate correctly. The inlet of the filter should be connected to the heater hose that runs from the front of the head to the heater core. The outlet of the filter should be connected to the heater hose that runs from the heater core to the top of the water pump.
I might look into doing that, that does sounds like a better idea. Luckily I saved the plug that I removed from the water pump.
 
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