[JAKE]

GRRR im so Fin frustrated with controlling a electric pump. I have gone the oil pressure switch to control the relay and they would last a year or so and die, now I have gone to having it off the alternator and now I have had a string of alternator issues. My next thought is control the relay off the idm power, is there anybody else that has done this? it either that or i was thinking about swapping to a SD pcm just to have the pump control. I have had the last alternator last about a year and this one lasted 3 months. the one before that lasted like 6 or 7 years.

 

[nashvillebill]

Use the red/light green from Fuse #22 that went to the fuel heater.

I don't even use a relay. I power the fuel pump directly from this wire.

 

[Tom S]

I also control my relay off the old fuel heater circuit.

 

[JAKE]

Sounds good I will have to get on that. I got time I bet its gonna be wedsday or thursday next week to get a replacement from DB

THANKS!!

 

[speeddemon31176]

Just a thought here but if you are burning up relays and fuses and have to keep finding a new location to pull power from, YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM . Start looking over your wiring to your fuel pump for a short / open somewhere along the line. You shouldn't be having that many issues or issues at all if you have it wired up correctly.

 

[JCart]

Good idea on the fuel heater for power supply. Iirc on my 96 I hooked directly from battery fused, the trigger was from key on only circut from fuse box inside cab. The ground wire I ran through Hobbs oil pressure switch set up on the oil filter auxilliary port. As I recall needed 2 psi oil pressure to trigger ground....
jrc

 

[old man dave]

You should be drawing relay power only for control from alternator, heater or ignition switch run hot. I used ignition switch run hot myself without any problems.

The fuel pump power should be from battery/fuse/relay/fuel pump/ground. This should be your high current draw pump power circuit.

The relay power should be ignition run position hot/fuse/relay control/ (optional inertia switch)/oil switch ground/. Should be low current draw for your power sensing/relay control and presenting a low current load to the relay power source.

 

[Aljay]

Main power from battery, trigger is from a key on source from under hood fuse panel.

 

[OBSWIZ]

You can also mod the underhood fuze box by adding a additional relay and using fuze #5 wire as a triger...works great and looke factory.

 

[JAKE]

My relay is in the factory fuse box, I think there was something up with my alternator and it cooked the coil in the relay. I am going to power the relay coil off the fuel bowl fuse for now. The way its wired it looks very clean, the fuse is also in the factory box off of one of the empty spots I took advantage of.

 

[joedown]

My relay is in the factory fuse box, I think there was something up with my alternator and it cooked the coil in the relay. I am going to power the relay coil off the fuel bowl fuse for now. The way its wired it looks very clean, the fuse is also in the factory box off of one of the empty spots I took advantage of.

That's the way I did it. Looks the best that way and so far haven't had any issues.

 

[Shovel]

I power the fuel pump directly from this wire.

This still working for you? What would be the drawbacks of not having a relay?

Seems to simple to be true.

 

[csp]

Your main power burning up the relay shouldn't have anything to do with whatever is triggering it. Very little amperage is going through the trigger circuit.

 

[Shovel]

But does the pump require that much amperage to make a relay necessary?

 

[biggreen96]

Yes a relay is necessary. The pumps can pull up to 30 amps and the wire for the fuel bowl heater is was to small for that. Need 10 gauge wire min. to the pump

 

[Shovel]

Yes a relay is necessary. The pumps can pull up to 30 amps and the wire for the fuel bowl heater is was to small for that. Need 10 gauge wire min. to the pump

Hmmmm, that might explain why my 18 gauge wire from my Bean's fuel system is now fried. :doh: