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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now that winter is here I decided to park my truck in the shop to give me something to do in the evenings. I decided there was three things on my to do list. IDM mod, DIY stage Is, and to convert from mechanical to an electrical fuel system. I know that you can buy kits to do this but part of the fun is trying to gather together all the parts you need. Luckily others have done this before so I didn't have to try and figure out what regulator and filters would work. Here is the list of parts I used and the costs.

Prefilter and base - Stanadyne 33640 (thedieselstore.com) $74.64
Secondary Filter Base - (WIX): 24770 (Fleetfilter.com) $26.00
Secondary Filter - (WIX) 33528 (Fleetfilter.com) $9.00
Fuel Pump - (ebay.com) $114
Fuel Lines - Stainless steel 3/8" under turbo (local) $100
Oil pressure switch - Holley 12-810 (amazon.com) $28.00
Fuel pressure switch - (local) $25.00
Fuel regulator - Aeromotive 13109 (ebay.com) $133
Fuel hose - Parker (international dealer) $5.00
Stainless hose clamps - (home depot) $7.00
Fuel pressure guage - (harbor freight) $5.00
Brass three way connector - (harbor freight) $4.00
Fittings misc brass - (harbor freight) $13.00
Fittings - Parker (local) $37.33
Wire - (local) $5.00
Fuel pump bracket - (wrecking yard) $5.00
Misc stuff - (local) $9.00
Total - $600

The first thing I did was remove the stock filter housing and pump. The only thing I left was the fuel lines coming into the valley from the tanks.

I went to a transmission shop and had some custom made 3/8" stainless steel fuel lines to go under the turbo. These attached to the back of the head and came together with a brass three way air connector. I bent the stock lines by hand into the right positions being careful not to kink them. I did not need to cut them to make them fit.
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I fabbed a bracket out of stainless steel to mount the pressure regulator to the bracket on top of the HPOP reservoir. I reused the existing flex fuel lines coming from the front of the heads into the fuel regulator.
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The wire for the fuel filter restriction was plugged into the fuel pressure sensor to light the dash light if fuel pressure drops below 20lbs.
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I went to the wrecking yard and got a fuse box from an F150 so that I could add another relay and fuse to my fuse box. I added the relay in the upper left corner and the large size 30amp fuse furthest to the right. All wiring was run in existing looms where possible. I wanted this whole setup to look as factory as possible.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
For the fuel filters I fabbed a couple brackets from stainless and mounted the filters as high up as I could. They are not visible unless you get under the truck. This is only possible on an F350. My F250 doesn't have the depth under the cab in front of the front fuel tank.
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I mounted the fuel pump using a bracket from a Ford car that holds the fuel filter. It was just the right size and worked perfect. It might have been easier to just use a SD pump but that would have cost me more.
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The oil pressure sensor was installed in the rear oil cooler header. I used a rubber boot from a BMW at the wrecking yard. I was surprised how well it fit.
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I also added a inertia safety switch from another Ford car. I spent quite some time looking in the engine compartment until I realized they were located in the trunk:doh:
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Finished it up last night and took it for a spin. All I can say is I've never felt anything like it before! I just wonder how long my tranny is going to last now:eek: I have a TW chip with the street race position but it hasn't been programed for the new Stage 1s I put in. Anyhow all I can say is this is a different truck. It's a good thing it isn't my daily driver or I would probably have this in my rear view mirror everyday:pullover:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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All done... well are we ever really done?;)
 

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Looks good!! Congrats on the fuel system!!:ford:
 

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I have used one of those ebay pumps before, most pressure I've ever gotten from it was 50 psi. These motors like 60 - 65 psi the best.
Just some food for thought.

Nice job anyway. ;)
 

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I have used one of those ebay pumps before, most pressure I've ever gotten from it was 50 psi. These motors like 60 - 65 psi the best.
Just some food for thought.

Nice job anyway. ;)
I 2nd this do yourself a favor and get a super duty pump. If it ever fails you can just go to a parts store for a replacement. It sucks I have to wait to do my fuel system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have used one of those ebay pumps before, most pressure I've ever gotten from it was 50 psi. These motors like 60 - 65 psi the best.
Just some food for thought.

Nice job anyway. ;)
Well I did a preliminary pressure test of 80psi with the pump just to make sure there were no leaks and all went well. I thought that the recommended pressure was 55psi? I have it fixed so I can easily change out the pump if need be. I've got a year to break it and get it replaced under warranty. :D
 

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Thanks for the nice write up. I copied all of this thread into the electric fuel system sticky as well.


Tom
 

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Can you post a wiring diagram for the fuel pump? I would like to know if you have a timed relay for starting etc. Is the oil pressure switch part of the fuel system as well and how do you tie it in. The inertia switch is a great idea.
Thanks, Dann
 

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Well I did a preliminary pressure test of 80psi with the pump just to make sure there were no leaks and all went well. I thought that the recommended pressure was 55psi? I have it fixed so I can easily change out the pump if need be. I've got a year to break it and get it replaced under warranty. :D
I swear by looking at it that it's the exact same pump I got off ebay, but mine maxes out at 50 psi. If you can get that high (80) of psi out of it, I'd say you're good.
Mine dead-headed at 50 psi worked for over 2 years running my test bench. Not as much use as a daily driver, but for what I paid it has held up pretty good I'd say...
 

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what part # fitting did you use to go from the pump to 3/8 line? what is the thread on the pump end
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
what part # fitting did you use to go from the pump to 3/8 line? what is the thread on the pump end
The pump came with quick connect type fittings on each end (see photo). I wanted to replace them with barbs but the thread sizes were not standard. I just put the hose over the quick connect and used a regular clamp.
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3/8 hose over the 5/16 slip fitting and it stays tight and no leaks??
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It wasn't as tight as using a 3/8" barb but so far it's not leaking. I hate leaks.
 

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I'm gonna be doing this soon but i dont know exactly how the wiring goes. I wish their was a better diagram for it. I plan on using a holley oil pressure switch, bosch relay. Any help would be awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm gonna be doing this soon but i dont know exactly how the wiring goes. I wish their was a better diagram for it. I plan on using a holley oil pressure switch, bosch relay. Any help would be awesome.
Here's a simple diagram I drew up for my system. Hope it helps.



fuelwire.jpg
 

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thanx that helps
 

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one more question, my regulator came in today and it has no instructions. i know what the fuel ports are for. but what is the small bolt with the nipple on it for? it looks like a hose fits on it or goes to it. also to adjust the pressure i just thread the bolt with the allen head it up or down right. thanx for the help. oh yea its a aeromotive 13109
 

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6.4's are my Hero.
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one more question, my regulator came in today and it has no instructions. i know what the fuel ports are for. but what is the small bolt with the nipple on it for? it looks like a hose fits on it or goes to it. also to adjust the pressure i just thread the bolt with the allen head it up or down right. thanx for the help. oh yea its a aeromotive 13109
It is for a vaccum and you don't have to worry about it. Good luck on your fuel system.
 
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