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how should I go about building the truck for durability and strength. not a speed freak anymore I grew out of that stage with my bmws. now I want true torq and power with the strength of a bull. please help first diesel and its a 6.0 f350SD CC lariat
 

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how should I go about building the truck for durability and strength. not a speed freak anymore I grew out of that stage with my bmws. now I want true torq and power with the strength of a bull. please help first diesel and its a 6.0 f350SD CC lariat
Why would you do head gaskets and not take an hour to put studs in?
Owning a 6.0 and not being a speed freak are oxymorons... It's gonna happen.
A solid and reliable 6.0 will need a new oem oil cooler, an egr upgrade (or delete), good (not Ford gold) coolant and quality oil, changed at an appropriate interval. Head studs and head gaskets when the time comes, don't bother with these 2 without replacing the head and doing all 3.
Replace the injectors when they fail, I'd do all 8 if it's in your budget, if not, one bank at a time. Do all the work necessary when replacing parts, being "cheap" by not replacing an expensive O-Ring (or whatever) will cost you (at least) double. My fav saying (although I'm guilty of ignoring it) "if your going to take the time to do it, take the time to do it right" and with the 6.0, it's important to understand this as "religion".
Mine has over 200k and head bolts. It'll be due for the top end to be replaced soon enough. I can do this in stages.... Replace injectors, reseal the oil rail.... Do head gaskets, heads and studs (IMO this is one job). Either way, it's 4k to do it right (myself) or 10k for a mechanic to do it for me.... I cod always do a kdd long block, installing it myself and being miles ahead, for 12k.....so....
Reliability is, more, based on quality and completeness of work, over "pure upgrades".... Of course, some things need to be addressed, like coolant, oil and other maintenance.

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Head studs are not a magic fix - there are people who have blown gaskets with studs. I've read a lot about head gasket issues (mostly on the FTE site) by guys who have gone WAY down the rabbit hole. Most of the destructive analysis points to actual "tenting" of the head vs. stretched TTY head bolts. Most important part of the job is prep work on the head surface to make sure they are still within flatness and thickness specs after machining. If the heads meet these criteria, and were torqued down correctly, I would see no cause for concern if you're not lead-footing it all the time. Although the use of thicker head gaskets could have been an attempt to seal a warped head... Best advice is the same for any 6.0 owner: Keep up with maintenance, watch deltas & voltages, and be prepared for repairs when the time comes.
 

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Head studs are not a magic fix - there are people who have blown gaskets with studs. I've read a lot about head gasket issues (mostly on the FTE site) by guys who have gone WAY down the rabbit hole. Most of the destructive analysis points to actual "tenting" of the head vs. stretched TTY head bolts. Most important part of the job is prep work on the head surface to make sure they are still within flatness and thickness specs after machining. If the heads meet these criteria, and were torqued down correctly, I would see no cause for concern if you're not lead-footing it all the time. Although the use of thicker head gaskets could have been an attempt to seal a warped head... Best advice is the same for any 6.0 owner: Keep up with maintenance, watch deltas & voltages, and be prepared for repairs when the time comes.
thank you for the advise and knowledge. I do have a lead foot I should probably work on that. I could use a 6.0 expert to come and look her over to tell me what needs to be done proper and when.
 

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thank you for the advise and knowledge. I do have a lead foot I should probably work on that. I could use a 6.0 expert to come and look her over to tell me what needs to be done proper and when.
Look, my 220k truck is still running bolts. I don't know if the gaskets (or whole motor) have been replaced or not. "thicker" gaskets can mean anything, do you know what brand?
The list of "basics" for the 6.0 isn't terribly long.... The full "bullet proof" is a hefty list, but, imo, doesn't all have to be done, unless your pushing big hp #s. Besides, a full BP is almost, if not more than, the same price as a KDD long block. I'd rather replace the whole motor than pay full price on a full BP on an older motor.

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Look, my 220k truck is still running bolts. I don't know if the gaskets (or whole motor) have been replaced or not. "thicker" gaskets can mean anything, do you know what brand?
The list of "basics" for the 6.0 isn't terribly long.... The full "bullet proof" is a hefty list, but, imo, doesn't all have to be done, unless your pushing big hp #s. Besides, a full BP is almost, if not more than, the same price as a KDD long block. I'd rather replace the whole motor than pay full price on a full BP on an older motor.

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no need to go brand new if the old one works perfectly fine. a few upgrades and she's more reliable I'll be happy. I'm not trying to go full out crazy diesel bro style. just trying to build a bull. a heavy duty fully functional durable 6.0 I like durable. I'm not worried about a full bullet proof kit if it's not necessary
 

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For the money spent on HG's & studs, BP oil cooler, etc., etc., you're quickly getting into cummins conversion territory. Same for a KDD long block That's my plan if my motor ever needs major work.
 

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Also, if you're not doing so already, monitor your fuel pressure. Low fuel pressure can take out injectors before you know there's a problem.
 

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Just sold my 2004 6.0l, 317000 miles. I never had to "bullet proof" mine. Would recommend the EGR delete and replace the oil cooler. Never hurts to flush the coolant system if you do not know when it was last done. My 6.0L pulled my 28' 5th wheel all over the country without stopping. I drive conservatively. I do not require power/speed compensation for a small appendage.
 
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