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Discussion Starter #1
Where can I find a good step by step procedure for replacing the EGR cooler and oil cooler? I placed my order with Bulletproof today, so I might as well get started with the removal. Ford garage wants $2100, and THERE IS A NATIONWIDE BACKORDER OF OVER 600 OIL COOLERS. Soonest they could start work is 2 weeks. Bulletproof said they have 100 oil coolers but they are going fast. Anybody who has done this, please post up your tips and lessons learned.
 

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Where can I find a good step by step procedure for replacing the EGR cooler and oil cooler? I placed my order with Bulletproof today, so I might as well get started with the removal. Ford garage wants $2100, and THERE IS A NATIONWIDE BACKORDER OF OVER 600 OIL COOLERS. Soonest they could start work is 2 weeks. Bulletproof said they have 100 oil coolers but they are going fast. Anybody who has done this, please post up your tips and lessons learned.
Watch these and you should be good to go...


 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks very much. Enjoy your KR.
 

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Thanks very much. Enjoy your KR.
No problem. In fact, I am setting up my truck tonight to do the BPD oil cooler/EGR kit and will probably snap some pics. I will go ahead and install the fumoto valves for the block drains and oil drain.
 

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I have a Fumoto valve for the oil drain. Fumoto valves for the engine block drains make a lot of sense. You'll get a much better coolant flush. How did you determine which size Fumoto valve for the block drains? After watching the videos, I might try doing this job myself, but I think it wall take longer than 30 minutes. BPD wanted to sell me an injector wiring harness. Should that be necessary? Thx again.
 

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I have a Fumoto valve for the oil drain. Fumoto valves for the engine block drains make a lot of sense. You'll get a much better coolant flush. How did you determine which size Fumoto valve for the block drains? After watching the videos, I might try doing this job myself, but I think it wall take longer than 30 minutes. BPD wanted to sell me an injector wiring harness. Should that be necessary? Thx again.
You need the F-111 for the oil drain and F108N (2) for the drain plugs. The passenger side requires the removal of the starter, but that only takes 15 minutes to take out. It will be worth it in the future for easy flushes without a huge mess.

Not sure why they suggested the wiring harness. One thing is for sure, these trucks have the most brittle wiring harness that tend to cut wires on the exit from the looms.
 

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1 thing to make sure you do is follow the proper torque sequence if you remove the intake, and try to use a new set of gaskets if you remove the intake. I know they are good for along time but it's cheap insurance. Also if you remove the intake, at least pressure wash it out or hot tank it before you put it back on.
 

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The hardest part of my egr removal was getting the exhaust inlet of the turbo to seal/line back up at reassembly. Make sure you leave the up pipes loose at the manifolds and leave the bolts out of the turbo mounts before attatching the y-pipe to the turbo. This seems to be the only way to avoid an exhaust leak. Other than that it's a step by step process that isn't to difficult if you're decent with a wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you all. Good tips. I have been watching videos for 3 hours. Those Canadians are riotously funny. Watch the videos even if you don't do the EGR cooler and oil cooler. "This truck is really dickers." I figured out what an antler is. It's anything that resembles an antler; coolant, oil, air, electrical or mechanical. But what the heck is a "choocher?" It might be a general term for anything with an o-ring. The fun starts when the parts get here.
 
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