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I am think about getting 6.0 but after researching the problems with the 6.0 has, I come to the conclusion that the best fix to this engine is to keep the EGT,ECT,EOT down.

Their are some aftermarket oil coolers out their that seem to work to an extent. But they all seem to have a negative side affect to their design.

After reading a bunch of threads I have never heard of anyone suggesting to try the following ways to decrease all the temps.

1. Put a bigger exhaust on and delete the cat or gut it. An exhaust that is 4 or 5 inchs will give you at least a 25% lower EGT temps. Which if the EGT are lower the EOT temps should go down a long with the ECT because the engine is able to get rid of that much more heat.
2. Put a High Flow oil cooler in. I have read that the high flow oil cooler will have higher EOT temps. But If you use a biger exhaust which lowers your EGT temps at least 25% then the EOT and ECT should be right where they need to be which is the 15 delta range.

This is what I was thinking on doing to help keep all the temps down.

1. Put a exhaust of at least 4 or 5 inchs on and deleting the cat.
2. Delete the EGR cooler to prevent the problems that come with having one.
3. Put a High Flow oil cooler in to prevent the problems that come with an Oem oil cooler.
4. Some say a coolant filter will help but, if you do a good coolant flush and put some EC-1 coolant in you should not need a filter because all the gunk should be pretty much flushed out. Plus the High flow oil cooler will not clogged if any was not flushed out during the flushing process.
5. Get something to monitor what the engine temps are at.
6. Get a new fuel pressure regulator spring.

So what do all you think about what I said about keeping all the temps down.

Will putting a big exhaust help lower eot/ect temps?

Thanks
 

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Looks good but you will be going into uncharted territory with the aftermarket oil cooler, im guessing your talking about the IPR oil cooler?

You will be doing a great job and right stuff to the 6.0L if you got the OEM cooler. There is no issue with that.

The ONLY issue is getting the coolant system clean, and keeping it clean. That is it.
 

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If I can get the coolant system flushed to point that it is in a very good condition. I could put a oem oil cooler back in and not have to worry about clogging if I use ec-1 and the coolant system was flushed properly and is now very clean.

What about the exhaust will a big exhaust help lower the EOT/ECT temps if
 

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What about the exhaust will a big exhaust help lower the EOT/ECT temps
No, because the ECT is controled by the thermostat, and as long as your OEM oil cooler is in good condition the EOT will remain within a few degrees of the ECT.
The cooling system on the 6.0 is large enough to provide more than enough cooling capacity... all controled by the t-stat.
 

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If I can get the coolant system flushed to point that it is in a very good condition. I could put a oem oil cooler back in and not have to worry about clogging if I use ec-1 and the coolant system was flushed properly and is now very clean.
Or ELC rated coolant.


Put a NEW OEM oil cooler in. Not the orriginal cooler back in.
 

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This is what I was thinking on doing to help keep all the temps down.

1. Put a exhaust of at least 4 or 5 inchs on and deleting the cat.
2. Delete the EGR cooler to prevent the problems that come with having one.
3. Put a High Flow oil cooler in to prevent the problems that come with an Oem oil cooler.
4. Some say a coolant filter will help but, if you do a good coolant flush and put some EC-1 coolant in you should not need a filter because all the gunk should be pretty much flushed out. Plus the High flow oil cooler will not clogged if any was not flushed out during the flushing process.
5. Get something to monitor what the engine temps are at.
6. Get a new fuel pressure regulator spring.

So what do all you think about what I said about keeping all the temps down.

Will putting a big exhaust help lower eot/ect temps?

Thanks
1. A 4" TB will get you lower EGT's for sure. From what I read before I did mine, a 5" will only get you lower temps at WOT and if you're pushing 500+ HP. The 5" will sound throatier though.

2. Absolutely, unless you have strict emissions laws get rid of it. Have to pass emissions?>>> Get a BPD EGR Cooler.

3. OEM vs. High Flow....not enough difference IMO. You can get a NEW OEM for under $300>>>>cont. on #4.

4. These blocks continuously release sand and impurities from the casting process. A new oil cooler without a coolant filter will eventually clog, even a high flow cooler. A coolant filter is a must (IMO) after flushing and using an ELC EC-1 rated coolant. Why do all that work and not protect it, filters are inexpensive insurance and only take about 20 min. to install.

5. EOT, ECT, Fuel P., and EGT are the big ones to watch. Edge CTS with a pyro probe and F.P. sender are the way to go for that clean, stock interior look, plus you can monitor more systems, FICM, ICP, Battery...... It does not come with the pyro probe or FP sender, they are extra, so it will cost more to monitor the 'big 4', than stand alone gauges. With stand alone gauges, you get what you pay for so don't go cheap.

6. Inexpensive way to insure your injectors, get it.

Following smokersteve's note, a larger exhaust will help keep the EGT's down and be better for the turbo, but will not have an effect on ECT/EOT. Those temps should be under 200 and less than 15* apart. Your EGT's at idle are around 350*, normal driving - 550-800*, under WOT - 1000*+, WOT with a race tune - 1250*+. Even at idle, I would be freakin out if my EOT/ECT were anywhere close to 250*.

Additionally:

Another way to keep EGT's down is a water/methanol injection system. I run straight distilled for everyday and saw a 200* drop under normal driving, and about 1.5 mpg increase. Adding methanol will give you some HP, but keep it less than 60/40 water/meth. I run 75/25 in winter to keep the water from freezing.

If you don't want to worry about EOT/ECT, a BPD remote oil cooler is the way to go.


I know I'm a newb, but I have spent so much time reading about the 6.0l that I feel safe regurgitating the info. If I missed something or have it wrong...:doh: otherwise, I hope this helps.

:welcome::psn:
 

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the BPD remote oil coolers don't lower your oil temps they actually run higher
I didn't know that, how much higher? I thought they ran cooler to help keep injectors and the turbo from failing due to overheated oil. Or is the overheated oil just a result from oil cooler failure.
 

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I don't recall but it can be as high as 20 degrees IIRC We have a few local guys using them and there was a few discussions on the temps but it's not an issue for the oil or motor by any means I just wanted to bring it up
I will see if I can find more info
 

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Here is another thread on AZPSG it is pretty much what I have seen other threads state

Question? Bulletproof Oil Cooler- your temps?

I would have one in my truck if I didn't get my OEM done under warranty but I do have their EGR cooler
 

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the BPD remote oil coolers don't lower your oil temps they actually run higher
I will have to disagree with this statement, at least with my experience with the kit. I have the BPD oil cooler system, condensor mounted with the "cold weather package" which is thermostatically controlled.
I rarely see oil temps above 190°F. The highest I have seen in the last 10 months of having this kit on my truck was somewhere just under 220°F. Mind you, that was on a 100°F plus day, sitting in stand-still Manhattan traffic with my ICE COLD AC cranking for well over an hour (to go just a few blocks, you could crawl faster). I was unloaded at the time as well.
I have nothing but good things to say about the kit, I love mine.

In the instructions that came with my kit, it stated that should you have any issue with your AC not being cold enough, you could overcharge the system with as much as 10 ounces of refrigerant. (I have since been told that that particular line was added for the bumper mount, which is no longer sold.)

I went to that link you posted for the Arizona PSD owners site. I see that the OP has an egr delete, and I am wondering a few things. One is if his egr valve is unplugged electrically and what stretegy is on his ECM? There are certain strategies that, should you unplug your EGR valve for whatever reason, will have an effect on the "fan on" commands. (he is having issues with his fan and was monitoring the duty cycle for it, and found that it is not coming on to 100%)
Since the egr cooler is deleted, there really isn't any reason to not keep the valve plugged in, it will control nothing anyway. If you don't want the valve sitting in the intake manifold for whatever reason, you can just ziptie the valve to something and leave it plugged in.
I recently read a thread on a different forum where strategies that have a "9" in them have the fan control issue once the egr valve is unplugged, but I can not confirm nor deny that.

One other thing to keep in mind is the location of the guys in that thread. They are basically living in a desert with ultra high summertime heat that the most of the country does not see and they discuss the worst-case-scenario.
I live in NYC (if you couldn't tell) and rarely see my oil temps reach what the standard oil temp is.
 

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I will have to disagree with this statement
The highest I have seen in the last 10 months of having this kit on my truck was somewhere just under 220°F.
you actually agreed with Me ;-) thats higher than I see in Arizona stand still traffic with the AC on or towing through death valley in July with an OEM cooler
but like you stated different locations (temp ranges) will have different results

mind you I am not saying the temp is an issue but you won't be running cooler than a properly functioning OEM cooler when the system is taxed or lack of air flow

EDIT I will Hit them up for clarification I am only basing My response off of a few threads
 

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the BPD remote oil coolers don't lower your oil temps they actually run higher
Not true Zmann, but I understand why you might think that. On some vehicles with low gearing, the computer's fan clutch strategy might make it seem so.

Our kits are designed to work as good or better than a properly functioning OE oil cooler. The oil temperatures with our kit actually tend to be cooler than with the OE oil cooler. So much so, that in colder climates, we recommend our cold weather kit (thermostat) to ensure that the oil warms up enough.

In most cases the oil and coolant will be within a few degrees of each other. In most cases the 15* delta of oil and coolant temps won't be exceeded. Downhill grades can cool the coolant quicker than the oil, so you might exceed the delta at those times.

What we consider to be normal oil temp ranges, measured on the return (cooled) oil side, is roughly 170* to 245*. The OE programming de-fuels the engine when (cooled) oil temps exceed ~253*. Also it must be understood that we have engineered these kits to work on stock vehicles. Performance modifications, like tuners, bigger turbos, charge air coolers, etc. change many factors. So that must also be taken into consideration.

With our kit installed, if you are seeing oil temps consistently lower than 170*, you probably need our cold weather kit. If you are seeing oil temps consistently higher than the OE 15* delta spread (ie. coolant at 205* and oil at 240*), then you may need a programmer and the OE fan clutch strategy modified or you might have a defective fan clutch. F350s-F550s with towing gear ratios, are likely candidates for the fan clutch strategy modification.

Hope this helps.
 
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