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Discussion Starter #1
i have to replace all of my injector cups, so while i have her torn down, i was contemplating gutting my turbo pedestal,but im not sure if this is safe. has anyone else gutted theirs and left the sensor unplugged with no problems? or do i need to buy a non-ebv pedestal and new turbo flage and all that? any info is greatly appreciated. thanks
 

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Theres plenty on here from what ive read that have gutted there pedistal and flange i think.. i personally just picked up a used pedistal for about 85$ including shipping and just did the swap.. shouldnt hurt anything leaving the sensor unplugged...
 

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FORD..THE ROCK CRUSHER
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wont hurt a thing as long as you unplug the sensor on the pedistal..delete the flang then you can delete the rod out of the pedistal..i just sold a 99.5 pedistal that was deleted..i may still have my early 99 pedistal that could be deleted some where around here..
 

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FORD..THE ROCK CRUSHER
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hmmmm this is a copy and past from Bob at dieselsite

Q. If I disconnect the sensor, some say this will throw a code ,so they remove the turbo, cut the actuator rod off, and tap the hole in the pedestal and put a plug in it with the sensor still plugged. Is this "ok" to do?

A. If you simply plug the hole and leave the sensor plugged in, you may cause yourself the loss of a turbo from lack of oil flow. Let me explain. The same feed port that feeds the turbo bearing is feeding the EBV piston. There is one supply port and one return port in the pedestal. When the EBP sensor sends the signal to the pedestal to shut the valve,which is not there in this case, the oil dumps off to the return port in the pedestal with no resistance. This is the same return port as the one for the turbo. The piston separated the two when it is was properly used from the factory. Basically, while the valve is being actuated or attempted to in your case the turbo gets no oil or very little. The turbo bearing is the highest place in the engine for oil to travel and it will follow the path of least resistance. If you remove this piston in the pedestal, you MUST not allow computer control of the valve any longer. You must disconnect the sensor from the pedestal. Yes, you will get a code (not a light) telling you the valve is non-operational, but it's the only way to do it.
 

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I've seen that posted as a reference a few dozen times, it isn't correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yeah, thats what i read that had me concerned about gutting mine,so if i gut it then i leave the turbo alone? or do i have to change the flange on the turbo?
 

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or do i have to change the flange on the turbo?
Getting rid of the rod and flap in the outlet flange is the whole point of the gutting. I'd change it if I were doing it but a lot of people have gutted that too.
 

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How much gain is there in gutting it? I need mine for my decell tune and have no desire to do it but was just curious.
 

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If you calculate the area of the outlet with and without the shaft and flap, there is a lot of difference.
 

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I realize there's some restriction there but how much does it really effect a truck that's not a race truck? I tow with mine and would not trade the added power, if any, for the brake savings and control of the decell tune.
 

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Village Idiot
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the only way i'd loose my ebv is to go to an h2e turbo.
makes for a good brake and lil to no performance gains imho
unless it is jammed
 

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the only way i'd loose my ebv is to go to an h2e turbo.
makes for a good brake and lil to no performance gains imho
unless it is jammed
Kinda what I thought. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
so i wont see much performance gains if any unless i have stage 3 injectors and a new turbo?sounds like its not worth time and energy to do it.mine is not leaking or anything,i just thought i would see some improvement with a gutted or non-ebv pedestal. thanks for the knowledge fellas
 

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Proudly Serving The USA
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Well I have an E99 truck and I gutted/plugged and saw a consistent 25-50 degree EGT drop. I also like the way the turbo sounds between shifts now. I did this mod 3 years ago and my turbo still runs strong.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
hey cvdenson,you just gutted the pedestal and plugged the hole right, nothing has to be done to the turbo,is that correct?
 

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I realize there's some restriction there but how much does it really effect a truck that's not a race truck? I tow with mine and would not trade the added power, if any, for the brake savings and control of the decell tune.
The turbo outlet diameter is 72 mm (2.835") (6.30 sq in area). What effect do you think it would have on performance and EGT if you replaced that outlet with an outlet that had a diameter of 63.5 mm (2.500") (4.9 sq in area).
 

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hey cvdenson,you just gutted the pedestal and plugged the hole right, nothing has to be done to the turbo,is that correct?
I gutted the pedestal and tapped it for a plug. Then I took the exhaust housing off the turbo (with the turbo out) and removed the flapper. Then I plugged the flapper holes with 3/4" (IIRC) freeze plugs. There's instructions floating around the forums on this mod.
 

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"Smoke A Lil Smoke"
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I gutted mine when I replaced the turbo last year.Beans says that you need to weld the holes shut in the piston cylinder so the turbo doesn't starve.I plan to do this for insurance when I get a d66.
 

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I ground off the rivets that hold the flapper on and removed them. I left the shaft in and connected so I didn't have to worry about plugging them. The removal of the flaps was more of a "I don't want them to be partially shut and affecting air flow" issue for me. My '02 didn't tow anything heavier than 6K so I didn't need the EBV for the decel tune.

Like Glen I now tow heavy and would not delete it because the decel tune uses it and it rocks!
 
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