[ghostrider]

I need some help here guys. Maybe someone has been in this situation before fixing up these old trucks. But anyway here's the deal. I bought a 96 sc drw F350 7.3 with a bad E4OD automatic transmission. The po had removed the trans and had purchased a good used trans to replace it but got sidetracked and in the meantime someone stole alot of his tools and parts out of his shop along with the torque converter for this truck. After pricing a new one and with limited finances he decided to sell the truck. I bought the truck but he doesn't remember which trans was the good one since it had been a couple years. So my question is... is there a way for the average jo to determine which is the good transmission before actually installing them? And for another twist when I purchased the truck the OD switch was broked off the end of the shift lever with the ends of the wires exposed and he had changed the third brake light assembly to an LED light so from what I've read in here those two things alone could cause transmission issues and the original transmission might not actually be bad. Or at least that's what I was thinking. Any help on this matter is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance guys

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[Patrick Feeley]

I'm no trans expert, but all I can think of would be to drain the fluid and pull the pan to inspect for junk. If you're not comfortable with that, maybe have a shop do it. Maybe ohm out the solenoids as well. That still would probably not tell you that much. Definitely fix the third brake light and OD button! Cheers!

 

[ghostrider]

Thank you sir.
Yes sir ive already got the OD switch and the third brake light repaired and purchased the new torque converter. THEY ARE PROUD OF THOSE THINGS lol. But that's kind of what I was thinking about draining and checking. I didn't think about ohming the solenoids but will definitely do that later today. I can't think of any other way to tell them apart offhand. But I'll get this done today if at all possible and post what I find

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[Patrick Feeley]

Here's what I find for solenoid resistances (see attached from 1996 Service Manual which is the connector side, you'll want trans side which should be mirror image for pins):
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid: Pin 1 to Pin 4, 20-30 ohms
Coast Clutch Solenoid: Pin 1 to Pin 5, 20-30 ohms
#1 Shift Solenoid: Pin 1 to Pin 3, 20-30 ohms
#2 Shift Solenoid: Pin 1 to Pin 2, 20-30 ohms
Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid: Pin 12 to Pin 11, 3.0 to 5.0 ohms

Cheers!

 

[ghostrider]

That's what I'm talking about. Thanks Patrick that is definitely a timesaver and I need all of those I can get. As soon as I get through checking them this evening I'll post the findings and some pics

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[ghostrider]

Well the weekend didn't go near like I had planned but I did finally get a chance to get back to my transmissions late yesterday. After dropping the pan on the first one I found the fluid dark but it still smelled like it should or no burnt smell anyway. The electrical tests all looked promising and within limits. Thanks again Patrick for the info. All solenoids checked between 20.67-20.70 and pins 12-11 4.5 ohms. I also checked pin 1-11,12 with infinite ohms just to be safe. The magnet in the pan had some very fine particles attached but im not sure if it would be considered normal or excessive. I'll try to attach some pictures I took. I put a white paper towel in the pic so it would help show the color of the fluid since the lighting wasn't the best. The only problem or potential problem that I recognized was the magnet debris and the pan itself looked like the po had dragged it around the shop floor a few times so its rough but it doesn't leak. The other transmission has to be the one purchased for a replacement because the electrical connector isn't exactly the same. It's an E4OD but the connector "D shell" has thicker plastic walls and looks like it won't fit the connector on the trucks wiring harness. Sorry for the delay in post but that's where I am so far and any ideas and advice is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance

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[Mark Kovalsky]

You could install the solenoid body from the old trans into the new one and everything should fit and work fine.

 

[ghostrider]

Is that considered too much material on the magnet? I don't know what would be normal or average. Im guessing it's just friction material off of the clutches or something since it's so fine

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[Mark Kovalsky]

It seems like a lot, but if there were a lot of miles since the pan was off it might be normal.

 

[ghostrider]

Thanks the for info Mr Mark and if human nature is a guide, I would say that's probably almost 300k miles worth if that trans didn't give trouble before now. Out of sight out of mind lol, you know how people are. I hope to drop the pan on the other trans this weekend and see how it looks. It could possibly be in just as bad shape. I'll post what I find and maybe this will help someone else down the line.
I'd like to take a moment to say that no matter how many open ended threads you end up on, or how many mouthy greenhorns tick you off to no end... THANK YOU AND WE APPRECIATE YOU GUYS THAT TAKE TIME OUT OF YOUR LIVES TO HELP THOSE OF US THAT TRY TO WORK ON THESE THINGS OURSELVES FOR WHATEVER REASONS. YOUR EFFORTS ARE APPRECIATED AND WE THANK YOU


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[ghostrider]

Well it took longer than I had planned. Due to good weather we make hay when we can. But after dropping the pan on the replacement "used" transmission lol I think I'll have to go with the original and hope it holds up for a long enough time that i can get caught up and have more time to devote to trying to rebuild it. Here are some pics of the last one. What is seen in the pics is all the fluid that was in it. Not very much and the pinkish substance, whatever it is has the viscosity of a thick house paint primer. Since I'm not very experienced in transmissions that's my best guess at this point and thanks again guys

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