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Discussion Starter #1
I'll keep this as simple as I can

1997 Ford F250 PSD crew cab

Problem:

The shift from 1st to 2nd is shockingly hard when I keep consistent throttle (around 2000 RPM it shifts norm driving conditions) but if I let off the throttle, to drop the RPMs, it shifts so smooth you can hardly feel it. If I really get on the throttle and get some speed it'll shift a little bit better but its as if I have to hot rod the thing to do that. It doesn't matter how slow I go ( almost worse if trucks forward movement is slower when shifting at the higher rpm) It'll always slam in. The rest of the gear shifts aren't really that bad. Downshifts are smooth as butter.

Notable things:

-Rebuilt transmission from Chippys out of West Virginia with about 2000K miles on it.
- They put a transgo shift kit in it
- Not sure what they drilled the holes in the shift plate to ( could this be the whole issue?)

-The first shift of the day from 1st to 2nd is actually pretty smooth but every shift from 1st to 2nd after that is rough and rumble

-I have no check engine light on or codes that I can read from the OBD2 scanner ( Torque app )

-Overdrive works as it should

-No noticeable needle fluctuations (speedo or rpm) while driving or during hard shifting

-No issues with idle or stalling or unexpected gear shifting etc


The truck runs magnificently other than that ( and a bit of a howling around 1500-2000 rpms which i think is the down pipe rubbing the firewall) but its enough to annoy the living hell out of me. I just want it to drive easy and smooth ya know like a normal truck should.

Seems to me like the timing of the shifting might be off or I'm not making enough speed for that first shift which then would be a total diff issue. Could use some guidance

Also first time poster here!
 

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Not that I'm helping, just getting more information for other more knowledgeable folks trying to help: Is there a chip or tuner on this truck? Cheers!
 
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Kinda waiting for Mark to chime in . Possibly a sticking accumulator valve , broken damaged accumulator spring ????


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Discussion Starter #4
Good question

I should mentioned that I do not have a chip or tuner. The truck is basically stock with a couple small upgrades or mods. It has the napa air filter and I believe wicked wheel in the turbo which is also stock size. I do not know about the injectors though, I haven't had the time to take the covers off and look. Soon though
@longjonsilver
I have a transgo re calibration kit in my shopping cart just waiting to pull the trigger on. That's what most people say is the common issue for this but what deters me is that its a new rebuilt trans and such with new springs etc
 

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Good question



I should mentioned that I do not have a chip or tuner. The truck is basically stock with a couple small upgrades or mods. It has the napa air filter and I believe wicked wheel in the turbo which is also stock size. I do not know about the injectors though, I haven't had the time to take the covers off and look. Soon though


@longjonsilver

I have a transgo re calibration kit in my shopping cart just waiting to pull the trigger on. That's what most people say is the common issue for this but what deters me is that its a new rebuilt trans and such with new springs etc

Before I bought my truck the previous owner had the transmission rebuilt by a reputable transmission shop . I was really surprised they rebuilt it completely stock , no upgrades or shift improvement of any kind.
Might be time to pull the pan and drop the accumulator valve body ..


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Discussion Starter #6
I did call up the company and they told me that they did put the kit into it and it also came with a nation wide warranty ... non transferable... of course so in my hands that warranty is useless. But non the less they say they put one in and I'm inclined to believe them.

Still I think you're right it may be time to pull it off and take a look. Lucky me they put a pan with a plug on it when they rebuilt it ;)

Still though I thought I would tap this online resource to get a more direct response knowing my symptoms and desired outcome.

Thanks for the response
 

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I like to fool with valve body’s on transmissions, so regardless of what I’m told I try to make it my own . There are a few cheap parts you can replace while you’re in there , boost valve for the reverse circuit, new accumulator valves that are steel , that kind of stuff . Sonnex makes all kind of goodies ...


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Discussion Starter #8
That leads me to a quick question for you since were talking about the subject. Transmission components are not my bag of tricks but I'm not afraid to get in there and dabble. Technicians blood here. The shift plate that goes in there, people drill out holes which affect the shift timing quite a bit in correlation with the amount of springs they put on the valve correct? The smaller the drilled hole the earlier it'll shift or do I have that back wards or not correct at all?
 

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That leads me to a quick question for you since were talking about the subject. Transmission components are not my bag of tricks but I'm not afraid to get in there and dabble. Technicians blood here. The shift plate that goes in there, people drill out holes which affect the shift timing quite a bit in correlation with the amount of springs they put on the valve correct? The smaller the drilled hole the earlier it'll shift or do I have that back wards or not correct at all?


The plate on the kit I put in my e4od and the drill corilates to the firmness of the shift . I can’t remember which is what but the tranny behind my 7.3 idi shifts very hard when the truck is empty . Put a trailer on it and it’s about right. Follow the transgo kit , stay on the conservative side unless you want it slamming gears , which obviously you don’t .
Pay attention to the inside bores of the valve body . The spool valves should move easily and not stick .


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This.
The firmness of the shift is what I want to mellow out. I think I'll go ahead and get this kit now and do the recal.

Any advice? other than specific attention to inside bores of valve body? Just looking for spurs something to hangup on? Obviously broken springs
 

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This.

The firmness of the shift is what I want to mellow out. I think I'll go ahead and get this kit now and do the recal.



Any advice? other than specific attention to inside bores of valve body? Just looking for spurs something to hangup on? Obviously broken springs


Keep everything clean , look for obvious scoring , follow the directions - have fun .


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-Rebuilt transmission from Chippys out of West Virginia with about 2000K miles on it.
Two million miles! That's A LOT of miles!
2000K = 2000 times K. K = 1000, so 2000K is 2,000,000 miles.

- They put a transgo shift kit in it
- Not sure what they drilled the holes in the shift plate to ( could this be the whole issue?)
Yes, it could. All that a shift kit does it modify how hard or soft the trans shifts.

The smaller the drilled hole the earlier it'll shift or do I have that back wards or not correct at all?
You are not correct at all. None of the holes affect when it shifts. It shifts when the PCM tells it to shift. The holes can only affect how hard or soft it shifts.
 

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I would try the Sonnax rebuild kit for the accumulator body. It help my truck with the 1-2 shift. You can dial it in on the firmness with different valve and spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you gentlemen for the help!

2 million mile transmissions being rebuilt at Chippys.. haha better get one. You're right I did get that wrong, just 2k. I'll be doing that recal here directly. Thanks Mark

I'll have to look into that Tom thanks. I haven't head of sonnex yet. Have you used it in your trans?
 

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Just my .02, I went through a similar situation on my obs. Hard shifting I tossed it up to being an old wore out e4od, as I watched my stepdad build A LOT of them when I was younger. Anyway I put a rebuilt trans in, let me tell you the stock 280k converter was gone, new trans, converter, cooler and everything was great for a day or so then started slamming you back into the seat.

After a lot of frustration and racking my brain a couple of guys here on the nation advised me of there experience, one said his did this with a bad MAP, everything looked good but his was bad.

Well I replaced the MAP and nothing changed, the other fella said his was the Barometric pressure sensor, it's located under the dash near the steering column, looks like a small 3/4" or maybe 1" square with a connector going into it. Well I swapped it out and the transmission hasn't shifted and ran that good since I got the truck.

Curious I pulled the sensor apart, comes apart like a flasher or relay, and inside I found a circuit board with a little round piece on it and filling / covering the round piece is a semi solid gel. Turns out the Barometric pressure "squeezes" on the gel and the pcm translates your elevation, it's not very expensive and fairly easy and clean to replace, I would recommend starting there.

Oh and yes the gel covering my sensor was ruptured, causing the pcm to not sense pressure.
 

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Just my .02, I went through a similar situation on my obs. Hard shifting I tossed it up to being an old wore out e4od, as I watched my stepdad build A LOT of them when I was younger. Anyway I put a rebuilt trans in, let me tell you the stock 280k converter was gone, new trans, converter, cooler and everything was great for a day or so then started slamming you back into the seat.

After a lot of frustration and racking my brain a couple of guys here on the nation advised me of there experience, one said his did this with a bad MAP, everything looked good but his was bad.

Well I replaced the MAP and nothing changed, the other fella said his was the Barometric pressure sensor, it's located under the dash near the steering column, looks like a small 3/4" or maybe 1" square with a connector going into it. Well I swapped it out and the transmission hasn't shifted and ran that good since I got the truck.

Curious I pulled the sensor apart, comes apart like a flasher or relay, and inside I found a circuit board with a little round piece on it and filling / covering the round piece is a semi solid gel. Turns out the Barometric pressure "squeezes" on the gel and the pcm translates your elevation, it's not very expensive and fairly easy and clean to replace, I would recommend starting there.

Oh and yes the gel covering my sensor was ruptured, causing the pcm to not sense pressure.
Where did you buy the sensor? Part number? Also can you take a pic of the part and location? I searched and am getting conflicting info on the actual part for my '96 F350. I have similar behavior from my tranny and am chasing down solutions. Thanks!
 

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Daskoff, I don't know if they are where you are at, but I got it from O'Reilly's auto parts. Standard ignition is the brand mine is part number is AS169. I attempted to attach a screenshot of the part from their website.

I'll try to get out there and take a picture of the part under the dash, I see what you mean about the conflicting information, when you Google the part it brings it up as well as map sensor and egr differential sensor for Triton gassers. Lol.
 

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Daskoff, I don't know if they are where you are at, but I got it from O'Reilly's auto parts. Standard ignition is the brand mine is part number is AS169. I attempted to attach a screenshot of the part from their website.

I'll try to get out there and take a picture of the part under the dash, I see what you mean about the conflicting information, when you Google the part it brings it up as well as map sensor and egr differential sensor for Triton gassers. Lol.
Thanks for the info. It looks like for me it was the neutral switch although I did not have any starting problems, the code said it was the switch. The shifts are still firm but not the same as before, especially the 2 to3 shift.
 
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