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Discussion Starter #1
Alright might as well have a thread for it, because i ask a lot of these types of questions!!

So if you just cant remember something off the top of your head and need a quick answer ask it here...

Tq specs, part questions, fluid questions, amounts etc etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I will start off...

is there a gasket or anything on the front cover? I am changing mine tonight and need to know real quick
 

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The sealing surface is shared with the oil pan. If its never been off the rtv on there is insane!! Very tacky. If I remember right it was just a bead of sealant. I can go look real quick. Just tore apart my project engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The sealing surface is shared with the oil pan. If its never been off the rtv on there is insane!! Very tacky. If I remember right it was just a bead of sealant. I can go look real quick. Just tore apart my project engine.
Okay i have 2 front covers laying around on top of the blocks, and then my motor still has the front cover on it.

Problem is the engine ill be running for the next couple months has a SD front cover on it, so i have to swap it. I got most all of the other o-rings and gaskets ill need though!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ive got another one just because....

Would you recommend pulling the giant rail plug on the back of the head and replacing all of that even if it doesnt look like its been leaking? Seems like itd be worth the $7 to do it, but not if the original seal is never going to be match (like the headgasket)
 

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Just looked at my SD front cover and it has a groove for an o ring. Bottom gets rtv. My philosophy: if it ain't broke don't fix it or reinvent the wheel. But I am in no way an expert or pro.
 

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Ive got another one just because....

Would you recommend pulling the giant rail plug on the back of the head and replacing all of that even if it doesnt look like its been leaking? Seems like itd be worth the $7 to do it, but not if the original seal is never going to be match (like the headgasket)
I had thought you couldn't just buy the o-ring but had to buy the plug too? Albeit that was a while ago now....at the time i did mine on the truck they were Waay more then $7.00.....if inexpensive I'd do the fronts too, but that's just me....

jrc
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah its $7 for plug and o-ring, and yes you can get JUST the o-ring also!
 

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i think i'd leave the plug alone, once you break the seal to replace the o-ring it may not seal up for you. leave well enough alone
 

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Yeah its $7 for plug and o-ring, and yes you can get JUST the o-ring also!
Wow...for that price I'd do all four!!. Changed out both on my 96 (as they leaked at different times) and have never leaked since....

Drivers side rear is a PAI if done in situ and the fronts would be a significant pain too because of the accessories iirc (if in truck)

FoMoCo may have done an upgrade too for later build dates...not sure on that...nice to see an adjusted price iirc I paid the better part of $80.00 per back in the day...are you putting bigger, newer HPOP on?

jrc
 

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No such thing as a dumb question!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wow...for that price I'd do all four!!. Changed out both on my 96 (as they leaked at different times) and have never leaked since....

Drivers side rear is a PAI if done in situ and the fronts would be a significant pain too because of the accessories iirc (if in truck)

FoMoCo may have done an upgrade too for later build dates...not sure on that...nice to see an adjusted price iirc I paid the better part of $80.00 per back in the day...are you putting bigger, newer HPOP on?

jrc
No just doing a rebuild of my original motor, so im putting an old stock motor in it for now.

Riffraff Diesel: Oil Rail End Plugs - Cylinder Heads
 

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Oh gottcha...in that case I'd do it on the rebuild and not the stocker you are puttin in now...

jrc
 

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you can get the plugs for 7 bucks each from your local ford dealer. i got mine for 6 bucks
 

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Discussion Starter #15
you can get the plugs for 7 bucks each from your local ford dealer. i got mine for 6 bucks
Rifraff is local, im just going to order all my o-rings and what not from Clay and ill see the stuff tomorrow.

$50 to make sure this stock motor isnt going to leak is practically nothing...Definitely worth it for the 3-4 months ill run this motor
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Got another one... whats the best grease to use with ARP studs? I am torquing them in another motor and dont have the grease from the original install!
 

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10/30 motor oil iirc
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Okay cool! That helps...

Man this thread is more useful than i thought it would be
 

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Discussion Starter #19
What do guys do that are using the SD hpop resevoir when they remove the fuel bowl? Just leave those holes open? Or do mosts switch to a OBS hpop resevoir?
 
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