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Bushwacker
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269 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I race my truck all the time even with a 2000 lb. payload and still beat them paperweight Hondas all day my problem is that i have way too much wheel hop and would love to find a heavy duty fix for it. I already exploded my pinion yoke into like 5 or six pieces from the tires spinning and hopping out of the hole! any ides? my truck is a 1996 5 speed DRW Dana 80 crew cab so thats like 160 inch wheelbase? all the other threads about traction bars confused the s*** out of me. does anybody have similar setups any info would be much appreciated.
 

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CSAR Bish
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229 Posts
I race my truck all the time even with a 2000 lb. payload and still beat them paperweight Hondas all day my problem is that i have way too much wheel hop and would love to find a heavy duty fix for it. I already exploded my pinion yoke into like 5 or six pieces from the tires spinning and hopping out of the hole! any ides? my truck is a 1996 5 speed DRW Dana 80 crew cab so thats like 160 inch wheelbase? all the other threads about traction bars confused the s*** out of me. does anybody have similar setups any info would be much appreciated.
If you are blowing pinions and axles, then there is nothing that you can do to prevent this other than to stop..
 

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Bushwacker
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269 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
it blew the pinion yoke with no load in it because of tremendous wheel hop if i had traction bars to stop the flexing of the leaf springs my truck would do great.
 

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just build your own set of t-bars, get a lenght of pipe and cut it about 2 inch longer then your drive line.
got to the local tractor shop and get 4 of them swivel bearing deals. weld them to each end of the pipe.
build a set of brackets to conect the pipe to the rear axel and then up to the frame. weld the brackets on and then bolt the pipe into the brackets and enjoy
*note* some people like to run 2 pipes per side, one conecting the bottom of the axel to the frame and then another one on top the the axel
 

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Bushwacker
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269 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
just build your own set of t-bars, get a lenght of pipe and cut it about 2 inch longer then your drive line.
got to the local tractor shop and get 4 of them swivel bearing deals. weld them to each end of the pipe.
build a set of brackets to conect the pipe to the rear axel and then up to the frame. weld the brackets on and then bolt the pipe into the brackets and enjoy
*note* some people like to run 2 pipes per side, one conecting the bottom of the axel to the frame and then another one on top the the axel
what do you mean by 2 inches longer than my driveline? 2" longer than my rear and driveshaft?
 

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Bushwacker
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269 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
ok that sounds resonable in wat way could i attach these bars to my rear> it seems unclear to me does anybody have a picture?
 

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CSAR Bish
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229 Posts
You need a bracket to either bolt or weld to the frame, then use a bushing/or hard mount to conect the two together... Couple seconds on google and this is what pops up









or somthing like this so its short and to the point
 

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2,761 Posts
Is it axle wrap or wheel hop.

Check out the CJC Traction Blocks in my sig pics.

Billy T.
[email protected]
 

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Bushwacker
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269 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I think its both if i know the difference. i thought that axle wrap causes wheel hop? is this theory correct?
 

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I have the same problem:doh:
 

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Check out OUO trac bars. they replace the lift block and have a trac bar/lift block one piece deal.


Micky
 
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