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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone I am new here. I normally do not head to google for help, but I am struggling with finding a part. I have a 2000 F-350 standard cab 4x4 Superduty with a 7.3 engine. The problem I am having is it needs a new drive line due to the slip yoke play s banging pretty loud. The local drive line shop said it was $600 for new one to be made. I know there's a cheaper option if I can find one, like EBAY lol. SO back to the issue everything I have found online is for a 5 speed tranny, my truck has a 6 speed and I cannot find a listing for a 6 speed. The shortest rear drive line was roughly 50 inches compressed and that was a dorman measured center of slip yoke u-joint to the furthest one away, well from my yoke on the rear end to the t-case flange is 50.5. So I can't even find anything short enough to fit. I guess 6 speed single cab Lariats are rare for this year according to the stealership. Any help would be much appreciated.
 

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If it's just the slip yoke you need to get a new driveline shop. $600 is more than enough to buy a brand new, complete, custom made driveshaft.
 

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What he said.

I don't know what part of the country you are in, but look up a parts house called Inland Truck Parts. They have been treating me good on driveline stuff lately. Hopefully there is a location with driveline capabilities near you.

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the response guys I will just have to find a new shop from the sounds of it. I did not do any calling around when I got quoted. Ya sadly everything here is expensive as I live pretty close to Seattle. I am concerned that if the slip yoke is so shot what about the double u-joint thing at the top of the drive line? Do they wear out as well? If so I might as well just replace all of it since hunting season is coming up.
 

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5 years ago i paid $300 for a complete driveshaft for my 02 direct from ford.
 

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I just got my driveshaft from the shop and it was $370 for 3 u joints and retube the rear section. It was $180 in labor to install all the new u joints, weld in a new section and straighten the other.

It might be cheaper to find a good drive shaft thats too long and have the driveline shop shorten it. I would have them replace all the u joints while they are in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I found a place called Drive Lines Northwest today, the gentleman on the phone said they could just repair what was broke. Tomorrow I am gonna drop it off and have them just go through it, he told me around $400 or so. Your $370 sounds about right I will let you guys know how it goes. $300 from the stealership? Wow they laughed at me when I inquired about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I got a call from the shop today and the gentleman informed me that indeed the slip yoke is bad, there is no way the drive line is causing the knocking/ banging I have. So he told me to start looking into the T-case/ transmission for bad bearings. At this point I should let you guys know what my exact problem is since you guys are very knowledgeable. 1st gear there is no noise regardless of how hard I get on it or coast, second gear towards the end it starts knocking about 20 mph, 3rd gear sounds like the truck is ready to grenade itself. The knocking is so loud and violent it sounds like someone with a framing hammer beating the crap out of the floor board beneath my feet, and a jack hammer under my seat worth of shaking. If I am accelerating or coasting it does not really change much. If I step on the clutch it goes away and coasts smooth in any gear at any speed. If I let the clutch out say to slow down it comes right back. Up hill, down hill, with my 10k trailer loaded there is no difference its the same. It always goes away if I step on the clutch.

So I pulled out the front drive line and drove it with no change. I put the front drive line back in and pulled the rear one out, I then drive the truck in 4-high and the sound is gone. This is why I thought it was the drive line. I know harmonics can do crazy things but I swear it's coming from under my feet or close to it. I am going to pull the rear diff cover tonight for a look see.
 

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You can always do grease samples.

Check rear diff fluid for metal, front diff, drain an oz or so from the trans, and t case, see which one of any has metal or debris in it.

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Smokey,

I had a similar problem in my 87 F250... ended up being the u-joints - the needle bearings were completely shot. If memory serves there should be a bushing on the output side of the transfer case that supports the slip yoke. I'll check the transfer case I have when I get home.

Cj
 

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Check the usual universal joints , carrier bearing . I want to say it’s the chain in the transfer case but typically it bangs when you first apply engine torque....


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I would take it back to them and have them change all Three u joints and balance it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I found my problem! I am taken back on the facts of how harmonics work, I meant the banging really felt like it was under my feet. So I ordered up some Motive gears today with a master bearing/ seal kit for it. I did find out something cool is that I have the limited slip carrier. I kind of figured it had one since you have to be real light on the skinny peddle in the rain. I threw a pic in there for ya guys, magically the pinion had zero damage I mean not a scratch from this, and no chunks of metal at all just silver oil.
 

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