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diy remote oil cooler questions

11K views 14 replies 4 participants last post by  drewactual 
#1 ·
Looking to build a remote oil cooler for my 2008 6.4 because I can't afford the bullet proof setup at $1400. I was wondering if there was anywhere else I could tap into a couple oil feed/return lines besides the oil filter? I like bpd's set up but I don't mind the oe oil filter and stick to changing the oil every 5k miles so I'm not too worried about a remote filter but will probably add one later.

I don't want to tap into the top of the oe oil filter housing and send the return to the oil fill cap, I just don't think it is very efficient and I'd like to see a decent improvement. Right now my truck idles right around 190* in 80-90* weather, but as soon as getting on the interstate the oil temps start to climb towards 210. If I could find a diagram of the oil flow for these motors that would be awesome. I'd like to use a fluidyne cooler and mount it similarly to bpd's design. Does anyone have an idea of where I could possibly tap into for the oil lines?
Also forgot to mention the truck is studded with an egr and dpf delete.
Thanks for any help
 
#2 ·
if you hijack the low oil psi and ran it through a cooler and did dump it down the cap you would be killing the low pressure oil PSI
thats why that setup is used on a bypass filter that restricts oil flow to a minimum

in laymans you will want to borrow / divert the oil and put it back still under pressure where it came from
but one kinked line and you wipe out the motor without a bypass setup

I know BPD kits are pricey but they really are worth it and have tested and trouble sot them to no end not to mention it seems like when you DIY something this critical it winds up costing more than you saved


i would contemplate a bypass with an inline cooler then you get filtration and may experience some cooling but that is a gray area


not to be a buzzkill i also contemplated the DIY kit for my 6.0 before i went to a BPD
 
#3 ·
What about the filter head that comes in the 6.0 vans? It looks to be a very similar product to what bpd uses so I may go by ford tomorrow and see if they have one I can take a look at. I'm not sure if it will be the exact same since my truck is a 6.4, does anyone know if the oem oil filter for the 6.0's is the same as the 6.4?

I also don't know if I could hook flexible lines up to it since the ones on the vans are hard lines but it's worth taking a look at.

It's mainly that piece that replaces the stock oil filter set up that I need from bpd's kit and I could put together the rest of the parts to replicate it for much cheaper
 
#4 ·
good question the Van does have a bypass in the housing I think

but fitment to a 6.4? hmm

and I can't see any reason why you couldn't do flexible lines like BPD
I don't think the van threads are proprietary ?

but I see $$$ adding up LOL
 
#5 ·
MPD 6.4 Oil Cooler Relocation Plate

Ok so I found this… but that involves relocating the fuel filter and oil filter unless I'm mistaken? It would also delete the stock oil cooler which I do think still works to an extent because the truck has no problems staying cool in stop and go traffic..

In that case I wouldn't mind keeping it there. I emailed bpd to see if they would sell me just the piece to replace the stock oil filter, I think I saw on another forum someone said bpd would sell it and the fittings for around $220 so if that is true I do think I could significantly lower the cost hopefully
Thanks
 
#12 ·
Just wanted to update y'all, I went ahead and ordered the bpd kit. I've got a road trip I need my truck for on Monday so I wanted to go ahead and get this problem fixed. I'm not sure if that mpd part will work since the fittings are -10an and I didn't want to risk anything as far as oil flow goes
 
#14 ·
Would braided steel line be sufficient for lengthening the in/out lines to put the housing where you want it? They make it look all nice and Purdy, even say you can put it wherever you want, but no mention of supply/return lines to make the run. Would friction loss be a factor in extending the distance from pump/filter/return? Beginning to think it's more trouble than it's worth. OEM works just fine...
 
#15 ·
So... I did this precise thing discussed...







The reason I did this was I wanted to push the bypass oil filter further down the frame rail to clear the existing coolant filter as well as the pvc catch for the ccv reroute.

The coolers are three foot each, and I wish I had purchased the four foot ones. The oil coming into them (top inline cooler) is as much as 40* hotter than leaving the bottom cooler... Realize the bypass filter head orifice slows that flow way down, now, before you think I'm crazy. It dumps back on the doghouse/tower, and by using a nucmotorsports kit with the extension tube.

It really does cool the oil, the IR gun doesn't lie.. but.... It goes to the doghouse/tower where it pours across the passenger head, through the valley, and into the sump, where it joins heated oil and rests for a bit before being pulled back onto the system once again.

Nuc/amsoil say 10% of the oil passes bypass by pulling out of the filter cap and back into the fill cap. That is simply because of the diameter of that orifice in the filter head, and only because of that. If it was bigger, more oil would flow but that oil would miss some pretty important areas in the engine, which would then be starved.. so, playing with the volume isn't a good notion... To further that, the oil is being dumped pretty much as far from a temp sensor/sensor as it can be, which gives it ample time to warm back up. So... Does my rig work? Yeah, because it doesn't leak, and because I've nearing 5k on this change interval and it still looks like green honey (it's shauffers 9k synthetic, it has a Forrest green tint to it)... Is it cooler? Yeah, there's no way around that, it is... But it's not measurably cooler... It's only ten percent shedding likely 30% of its heat before being dumped back into a pile of stuff the same temp it was before bypassing... In the best of circumstances, my overall temp is half a degree better.

It does add volume, though... With the amsoil filter, those inline coolers, and the lines, I hold about a gallon (maybe 7/8 of one) more oil... That, the high quality syn oil, in addition to the extra filtration (and according to what I hope Blackstone tells me) should extend my change from a religeous 5k to at least ten, and possibly 15k... There is then an outside chance (after changing full flow filter at five and ten anyway) a shot of additive such as archoil or revx may allow me even more miles... We'll see. I won't risk my engine, but I'll trust the labs...

If anyone is interested I can come back and update this post.
 
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