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Anyone done the DIY Big oil? How more money does it take to make the kit complete? Whats all involved?

I noticed that beans and dpp sell the diy kit. both advertised for 900.00.

www.beansdieselperformance.com
www.dpppower.com
 

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I have heard Bean mention, that if you already had the pumps, the fittings, ect.. would be less than 50.00. Seems that is a figure I heard thrown out there,,, others may have a more exact figure,
 

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I just finished the Stealth DIY kit from DPPOWER.com. I did the dual IPR's and 4 lines, but you don't have to do that if you don't want.

You'll have to track down a good 2nd HPOP. I found one on Ebay for $250 and it already had the IPR installed on it. The DIY kit comes with a IPR plug if you only want to do 1 IPR. So in addition to the second pump, you'll need to go to your local Parker fitting store (or some sort of hose and fitting place). It shouldn't be more than another $40 in fittings and hoses. You will also have to go to your local Ford or international dealer (they are cheaper). You'll want to get 2 new HPOP gaskets (1 for the front pump and 1 for the rear pump). I went ahead and changed out all my o-rings as well since I had the factory HPOP out. Also make sure you have a press available to you. You will have to press out the shaft on one of the pumps to re-shaft it for the Stealth shaft it comes with.

The process took me about 6 hours. You have to remove most everything from the top of the motor (intake spider, fuel bowl, HPOP resevoir) and be careful not to lose any parts. Be extra careful setting the completed Stealth into the valley making sure the new gaskets stay in place. My front gasket got tweaked putting it in and I had a nasty leak and had to tear it all down again to fix but if you are careful its not a problem. Again plan on 6 to 8 hrs from start to finish.

The results of Stealth Big Oil are impressive. It has a much nicer torque curve and no more SES lights. My SOTP dyno says about 50HP just from this mod :rockwoot:.

When first starting the truck after installation, it takes a bit for it to fire since there is no oil in the pumps or lines and they have to fill. Make sure to fill your resivoir back up with oil or it won't start at all.

PM me if you have questions. Its well worth it but probably more technical than most people want to mess with so be prepared.
 

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Deputy........how much money do you have in it all together? Would you do it all over again, or just buy the complete kit??
 

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I have about $1700 into it since I did 4 lines (lines from Ford are over $100/each :lame:)

I am actually getting ready to do another one for my brother but he has a bigger budget than me. I'm gonna have Joey at Terminator set this one up and I will install it for him. I think its less than $900 bucks more and Joey has 2 new pumps.. I have the install down if you need help.:gun:
 

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Ya its pricey but probably one of the best Mods I have done and I think most people with Big Oil will agree:swordfight:
 

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the kit from terminator is 1995 if you use your own pump
I'm also throwing the idea around to build units with customer supplied pumps(both shipped to me direct), to make it more affordable. I haven't committed to it yet though, because I hate working with used pumps. I guess you could call it: I Do It for You kit(IDIY kit):shrug:
 

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lol
That's a really good idea. It's easy enough to buy a couple boss plugs for the stock pump, seals it off pretty good.

I guess oil can stil leak out the front though.

Is there a really good way to clean them up before shipping?
 

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Not really. I usually suggest wrapping them in 3 plastic bags before shipping. UPS gets pissed when they leak oil on the shelves. Sometimes it nice to get them washed with carb cleaner, but that's rare. The big problem is when you pull them apart, that dirty oil makes a mess on my clean work area.

Where as the new pumps are filled with clean mineral oil. I actually enjoy working with those.

OK, enough ranting..............
 

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I agree working with used pumps is messy. I used an air nozzle to try to blow off the rear cover on mine. I plugged off the outlet ports but they still blew out and sprayed oil all over another customer's vehicle :(. Its worth the extra money to have the pump re-shafted and assembled so when you get it, its back together within a few hours..
 

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Yes, those covers can be fun to remove on used pumps. The new ones come right off. Sometimes I just drill a pilot hole in the center and use a slidehammer. Don't need the cover anyway.;)

When you applied air, you went into the bottom port(pump feed), right? You can also clean the surface and use some adhesive, and just jerk the cover off.;)
 

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Yes I went to the bottom feed port but the cover didn't want to come off. I also ended up drilling a hole and used a slide hammer and it came right out. Once you figure it out it comes right out. I did a lot of my mods at the same time too so I had plenty of room on the engine to work. I replaced my turbo with a TN, installed a 6.0 intercooler as well as a 6.0 tranny cooler.

Any idea Joey what kind of HP terminator adds? Seems like I have seen number in the 40 - 50 HP range.
 

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It really depends on how low your ICP was with the single. If you were down low enough, you can see some pretty good gains. Probably safe to say, 35-45 HP with a weak pump. My Tech seen 35 HP gain, and his factory pump was holding 2900-3000 by it's self(stock injectors with 20k miles on the new engine). I should add, he was running 3800psi with his TE kit.

The largest gains will be on your torque curve.
 

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I will be putting my truck up on the dyno at the event I told you about and will see where I am at. Unfortunately I didn't dyno it prior to big oil. :gun:
 

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Yeah i am planning the terminator as my next mod, because after hooking up my new AE and making a few WOT and loaded runs, it really showed i needed it.

60tow- 2160psi
80 econo- 2000psi
120 race- 1700psi
140ag- 1750 psi.

I too would like 3500+ ICP, 3800 would be nice!
 
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