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Discussion Starter #1
Ok well was doing a tire rotation today and I came up with some pictures I would like to get more info about. Please reference what picture you're talking about when you respond.

This picture is of the drivers side frame infront of the tire but back from the bumper bracket. There is a bolt with a captured nut there. Well what goes here? Does anyone have something attached there is so what?


This is the drivers side, bottom of the radiator, kinda where it mounts i think. Well there is coolant dripping out of it. Nothing drastic but i notice a wetspot everynow and then on the ground. What is it and where is it coming from?


With discussion of trac bar issues here is a picture of mine. This is a 6" 4link lit with a 2" leveling kit. This is with a trac bar drop bracket and a drop pitman arm. Should i change something or ok how it is?


I think this is the axle seal? Is it a common problem for these to come loose? Should i be worried or just not worry till i take a hub off for something. Or is there a way to put it back in with the hub on?


And to top it off Just look




 

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Oooo, White Lightning !
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Old girls taken a beating.

You could have a small hole in your rad. Try running some barnsleak through it.

Trac bar looks fine. Im not sure why you are asking ?

As for that bolt, if memory serves correct it has just come loose. I wanna say it bolts into the trac bar bracket or pitman arm bracket. Just tighten it back in.

Leaf springs do break btw, just take it out and take it to a spring shop and have them put a new one in. Id recommend both sides just so they sit and wear evenly.
 

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Learning from PSN
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In the picture with the axle seal ,is it the drivers side? If so I would change it when you get a chance. Mine and a friend's late 99 were bad and both of our inner axle seals were bad. The driver's side short tube seems to allow water and dirt in easier and eats the inner seal. The inner seal isn't too bad to replace, but if you catch it early, it is one less thing to do. We made a tool out of all thread rod and some steel plate to install the inner seal.That really helped to make it easier. I'm no expert just going by prior experience. I would replace both sides of the springs also ,if one is broke the other is weak and will also break sooner then later. Found that out from experience also.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ya just a few things i have seen that need attention.

Radiator - Putting something in the coolant beside cat elc i think would clog up the oil cooler. and would also just clog the coolant filter so i dont know how that would work?

As for the bolt. has nothing to do with the trac bar nor the pitman arm. It is a bolt that goes through the frame into a captured nut. If i tightened it it would do nothing but hold that section of frame together. Not a bad idea to prevent rust i guess but ya nothing to do with the trac bar or pitman arm or their brackets.

As for the trac bar pic - I was wondering if getting the two more parallel would prevent bump steer or if they are fine the way they are. Thread have been started regarding flipping the trac bar or getting an adjustable one to make the drag link and trac bar more even so i was wondering about mine.

And the springs yes i am still working with the manufacturer. I will bring up the idea about replacing both due to the eneven ride hight or sagging/aging of the springs at different times. They have a lifetime warranty on defects so i hope to get this replaced.

Axle seal is the drivers side. Passenger side looks ok. I will tackle it i guess whenever i take a hub off. I have seen the custom (redneck) homemade presses people make to seat these seals. Is it as simple as beating them in till they sit? IDK i have never done it.
 

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Lost Cause
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I'll make comment on the rear leafs. Replace the entire pack with either Deaver or Icons. It is going to cost some money to pull the packs out, replace the broken leaf and the corresponding one on the other side, and still have the risk of another or more in the pack failing. Get some 5" lift springs and add a small block if needed to get the desired stance.
 

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Learning from PSN
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You might be able to beat them in. There is not alot of room in there . A home made tool will more then likely seat them in better.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Springs - There is a lifetime warranty so i hope to get a new set from the Manufacturer and hopefully in the 8" version and not 6". Well then i will just have to lift the front then huh :)

Seal - Ya i will try and fit it in. Question is where does it go? Does it ride on the collar on the stub shaft or does it go behind there?
 

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Learning from PSN
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The outer seal rides on the stub shaft. No problem getting it on. Just tap it down till it seats on the lip. The inner seats into the inside of the houseing. You have to take out the center section. Don't worry about that. It comes out in one piece. Just make sure you don't mix up the bearing caps. They are marked which way is up. Make sure you have a good torque wrench and a repair manual to get all your torque values. You might luck out and not have a bad inner seal.
 

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Axle seal is the drivers side. Passenger side looks ok. I will tackle it i guess whenever i take a hub off. I have seen the custom (redneck) homemade presses people make to seat these seals. Is it as simple as beating them in till they sit? IDK i have never done it.
Does it ride on the collar on the stub shaft
Yes it does but and you might be able to just work it back on without taken anything apart but

that is the dust seal not to be confused with the seal in the knuckle they have a new improved dust seal that replaces the axle shaft mounted one for an axle tube inserted one that actually works,, but to get to that is way more than "taking a hub off" the above comment about bearing caps and what not does not apply to these trucks ,, they use a unit bearing

As for the trac bar pic - I was wondering if getting the two more parallel would prevent bump steer or if they are fine the way they are. Thread have been started regarding flipping the trac bar or getting an adjustable one to make the drag link and trac bar more even so i was wondering about mine.
if you have bump steer fixing the angles should help


new seal in the tube and you can see where the old seal used to sit on the axle



as far as the bolt and captured nut I would bet your missing a skid plate? I will go look at mine later

can't really tell location from the pic but make sure your radiator petcock is closed all the way
 

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Learning from PSN
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the above comment about bearing caps and what not does not apply to these trucks ,, they use a unit bearing



I must of miss spoke on that. Just meant the the caps that hold the center section in the houseing.
 

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OHHH Gotcha

He won't need to get into the diff unless the inner Axle seals are toast and leaking gear oil out the housing ends
 

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i personally have never seen a superduty from 99-07 atleast with the axle seals in...meaning that they are almost all the way yours is, atleast in my experience...and probably unless your gonna be in deep water i wouldnt worry about it. like everyone else is saying when you see oil you know its time!
 

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mine were still on at 50k when I had my ball joints done and wen't with the new improved seal but I have seen plenty that were off
 
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