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Bronco Guru
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm currently in the works to be getting a 1997 F-350 with a 7.3 powerstroke to do a whole powertrain, driveline, and electrical swap, etc on my 1994 bronco. I know a good bit of how this will all go down, but one of the things I'm caught up on is what I should do for the front suspension. The donor has a solid D60 in the front end, I'm planning on installing this by using sky manufacturing reverse shackle kit that will basically makes the front end a bolt on swap.

My question is should I swap the axle with the 97 leaf springs or get the 99-04 x-code springs put in the front end.
 

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Bronco Guru
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
That's what I was think but I wasn't entirely sure.

Does anyone know of a good site that sells the x-code springs? I know my local JYDs don't have any super duty trucks so I wont be able to get used ones from there. I did see sdtrucksprings.com sells them $100 a piece is that a fair price?
 

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Administrator
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I wouldn't run x codes, they would be way to stiff for a bronco. I would stick to u codes.
 

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Project Shamu
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Yes, I run V codes and I think they are too stiff. You're lighter bronco will like U codes.
 

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Ford ran u and v codes in the superduty with the 7.3. Being that the bronco is so light you might even be able to run some t codes. T codes came in the v10 option I believe.

Here is a link for the lighter springs. https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=17057
^^^ these springs are a replacement for the t and u codes. The price is pretty good at $115 each. Shipping kind of sucks at around $150 last time I checked.
 

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Cool project, when you get a moment check out Precision Metal Fabrications (PMF) too. I’ve installed both Sky and PMF RSKs and the PMF is superior IMO. Also recommend the receiver hitch on the cross bar, makes for a robust RSK. SD springs front and rear (would be least expensive) with anti sways front rear too, aftermarket steering box with Borgeson mid steering shaft = wicked steering, handling, smooth riding rig...
 

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Bronco Guru
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Cool project, when you get a moment check out Precision Metal Fabrications (PMF) too. I’ve installed both Sky and PMF RSKs and the PMF is superior IMO. Also recommend the receiver hitch on the cross bar, makes for a robust RSK. SD springs front and rear (would be least expensive) with anti sways front rear too, aftermarket steering box with Borgeson mid steering shaft = wicked steering, handling, smooth riding rig...
I was originally looking at a rsk kit for the front suspension, but on the full size bronco forum everyone uses sky manufacturering kit. Which caused me to look into getting that one. Which one's is more popular on psn? Id love to build with the best designed kit.

For steering I was thinking of getting a signaw from a e series van and reman it
 

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Bronco Guru
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Ford ran u and v codes in the superduty with the 7.3. Being that the bronco is so light you might even be able to run some t codes. T codes came in the v10 option I believe.

Here is a link for the lighter springs. https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=17057
^^^ these springs are a replacement for the t and u codes. The price is pretty good at $115 each. Shipping kind of sucks at around $150 last time I checked.
I'll definitely look into u codes possibly the 5 codes. I saw sd truck springs had those listed. At the price it's hard to believe, are they a reputable seller for the quality?
 

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I was originally looking at a rsk kit for the front suspension, but on the full size bronco forum everyone uses sky manufacturering kit. Which caused me to look into getting that one. Which one's is more popular on psn? Id love to build with the best designed kit.

For steering I was thinking of getting a signaw from a e series van and reman it
Can’t comment on Saginaw as I’m not familiar with it. For the RSK, PMF is superior as the frame mount is an actual saddle mount that the frame rail sits into on the front. The cross bar is welded into all 4 vertical plates on the PMF version which I feel is stronger. Fit and welds are very nice on the PMF. As noted above we installed a Sky RSK on my sons truck and I did the PMF on mine basically one right after the other so we where able to compare side by side. I prefer the PMF.
j
 

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I would leave it coil springs. sell the leaf axle and get a 05+ coil suspension for it. cheaper and better ride
 

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Bronco Guru
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Discussion Starter #13
I would go that route, but I got a wanted to get a complete F350 so I could could get everything from one donor to make everything more simple and easier.
 

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Bronco Guru
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Discussion Starter #14
Last night I ended up purchasing a F350(single cab long box 4x4) for the swap, seems to be a real strong engine and transmission for the mileage. I was originally very weary of looking at this truck because its at 350k and the body has a good bit of rust (but doesn't matter because I don't need it). The owner before the last was a ford diesel mechanic and "allegedly" swapped out the transmission, turbo, and injectors. There was no papers for these parts but the condition and performance of the rig seemed to look like those parts have been changed within the last few years. Transmission shifted exceptionally good, climbed up and down the gears very quickly with no slipping, hesitation, or reving up between gears. I inspected the turbo and it wasn't dusted or oily and no slop in. On a cold start if fired right up with a very light blue smoke similar to what a early 6.7 looks like when those cold start. Smoked cleared with in minute or so (air temp was ~20*F) if in the summer if it still has a faint blue hint I'll rebuild the turbo and replace the seals. Under hard throttle no smoke what so ever which I was pleasantly surprised. When it was warm I checked for blow by and there was none. The small amount of smoke that comes out of the oil fill looked as if it was a very healthy truck

In this deal I got a rust free cab, 2 100% rust free and dent free door that were primed, 2 doors rust free with a dent in one with factory paint, 90% clean box and a bunch of other interior plastics, glass, steel trim, and a whole ac unit/ box getup thats in the corner of the engine bay. The person i got it from also put in 2 new motorcraft batteries, glow plug relay, and shift linkage on the column. It shift better that shifter in my bronco. Planning selling all these extra parts. I already have a friend that's interest in the doors, cab and box so thats good.

Only thing that wrong with the truck is the oil pan was had a small leak on the gasket which I'll change when I pull the engine. Also the the front axle drive shaft seal need to be replaced and front springs were f*cked.

On the ride home which was 3 hours the EGTs never passed 730* when I was at 70 mph, at 55mpg it was around 400* to 500*. I payed 3100 for all of it and hopeful l can make some of my money back selling the parts. I brought a friend with me that has had several 7.3 OBS and he said the truck preformed just as good as his OBS 7.3 with 100k on it. The price might have been a tad high but I happy with what I got, and if in the next few years if the engine or tranny goes out I wont be surprised it does have some miles on and will go about overhauling or rebuilding it.
 

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Bronco Guru
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
My one big problem with doing a RSK from any site is that my bronco, like half tons of that era have crumble zone in the right behind the bumper mounts. Now from what I've heard on FSB is that the crumble zone is the same width as a fully flat boxed frame. If I got the PMF RSK i could bolt it in weather its on the boxed frame in front of the bumper mounts or on the crumple zone i could go through and reinforce the crumble zone by boxing around it or incorporating the PMF side plate mounts into a sleeve that boxes the crumble zone. Hard to plan this out without a RSK in front of me to see how the frame needs to be boxed. Does anyone have ideas how to get around this issue to keep major frame modifications minimal. I'd rather add/weld metal than cut and replace, but if i can't then ill cut the side off of the crumble zone and weld on new sides.
 
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