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Bigfoot is an OBS
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To put a Dana 60 into an F250, you need a Dana 60, some nuts, bolts, and tools. Oh, and a truck to put it in. LOL

I got my axle in and as luck would have it, it had almost all the parts I needed. Only parts I wanted it didn't have is the sway bar and driveshaft. Oh well.

It started with some disassembly to get an idea of the condition: Rusted.
I used some of this:


To do this:


It's just a cheap blasting kit from Menards and some of their abrasive blasting grit (slag).
After a few hours of blasting, the nozzle looks like this:

Don't let yours get this bad. The grit started to eat my gun once the nozzle was worn out!

When doing disassembly, you need to get the spindles off to get the axle shafts out.
Spindle looks like this:


On the backside there is a bearing inside the spindle. It will probably need to be replaced. Picture of back of spindle showing bearing:


Since the hubs are off, you might as well replace the wheel seals and wheel bearings. Make sure to grease well when installing.
Since you have the axle shafts out, replace the U-joints.

If the hubs look like this:

Then they need to be cleaned out really well. Replacement may come later as budget allows.

Now put the axle all back together. I used underbody coating and black spray paint on almost every surface.


Now for the fun parts:
Worn out stock ride height:

Worn out stock bump stop clearance:


Before you do anything else, make sure you can get the nuts & bolts loose. I started 3-4 days in advance spraying things with penetrating oil.
Spring bolts & shock bolts:


Everything coming down:


Note the brake hose clamps. This keeps brake fluid from leaking all over the place.

Finally out:


Kinda empty under there:

Those that have done this before (or know the underside of the truck really well) will notice that I haven't gotten the TTB brackets off yet.

Now the brackets are off:

The two bolts left hanging down I had to cut to get them sort enough to clear the oil pan to get them out.

New axle going in:


I reccomend getting the springs bolted in place first, starting at the rear. Starting at the front just made for too much movement as I was trying to get the rear lined up.
Then get the track-bar bolted in.


Brakes!!!! Everybody like to have brakes, and I'm no exception.
Not knowing what year the axle is, I ordered parts for an '89 (year that had a kingpin and correct spring dimensions) F350. The caliper uses a slightly different hose mounting location than the '96, so I had to modify the hose a little bit.
The '96 has a lip on the 'top' side where the banjo bolt went through:


I determined (after 20 minutes of examining the differences in calipers) that the 'lip' had to go. So I ground it off:

When you put the hose on the caliper, the side that had the 'lip' needs to face the caliper.

All installed & done:



Well, all done expect for a few small items:
-Driveshaft needs to be shortened. I could just barely get it on the axle yoke.
-Need to get the tierod end replaced that connects to the pitman arm. The year ('85?) that this axle was made they used a different size taper for the parts.
 

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Bigfoot is an OBS
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3,462 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Parts list:

4wd factory 2 Spindle bearing and seal kit 13.0000 26.00
4wd factory 2 wheel bearing & seal kit 41.0000 82.00
4wd factory SPL55-4x 2 U-joints 49.0000 98.00
napa NB 4885731 2 rotor 63.4662 126.93
napa SDC 2424072 1 semi-loaded caliper (LH) 53.9892 53.99 55.00
napa SDC 2424073 1 semi-loaded caliper (RH) 53.9892 53.99 55.00
napa SS SS7054M 1 pads 57.7692 57.77
Napa 1 7/16-20 lock nut 1.5000 1.50
Case (IH or CE) 12644931 4 M14 10.8 Washer 6.8400 27.36
Case (IH or CE) 87564740 4 M14-2.0 10.8 nut 1.6800 6.72
Case (IH or CE) 826-14140 4 M14-2.0 X 150mm 10.8 Bolt 11.1200 44.48
Fastenal 40334 5 M14-1.5 nut 0.5464 2.73
Don's auto parts & machine shop 1 Shorten driveshaft & new u-joints Approx.200.0000
Napa Moog ES3009R 1 Tierod end approx.80.0000

Total: 861.47
Core: 110
Final: 751.47


I liked the 4wdfactory.com bearing & seal packages. They made the rebuild fairly easy. Also had very reasonable prices.
All the fasteners for the springs need to be 10.8 hardness. Hence the cost of the fasteners. The nuts from fastenal are NOT 10.8 as they are for the tierod ends.

NOTE: if you have tierod ends with an M14-2.0 thread, they most likely are NOT the correct taper for a '94-'97 truck. You'll need to change out the pitman arm or get the correct tierod end.
If you change out the tierod end, make sure the tierod has 1"-18 threads on the shaft as some trucks (before 1986) had M22 threads on the shaft. If you have M22 threads, you'll have to replace the whole tierod assembly.
 

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Failure to Communicate
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Sweet looks like you gained a good 2-3 inches pre-settle anyway.

4wdfactory is where I got alot of my parts from IIRC good pricing.
 

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Smarty Power!
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Looks nice!!

Want to come to SEOH and do one? I'll buy beer...
 

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Nice, I'm in the process of rebuilding my '88 D60. It should be going in next week. I can't wait!

A question, what springs did you use?
 

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993 Posts
Looks good Dan!
How's the ride? I was wondering how you got all that rust till I seen where you live.
Where did you get the sandblaster? Menards?
 

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Bigfoot is an OBS
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3,462 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks nice!!

Want to come to SEOH and do one? I'll buy beer...
Uh,.....No. One is enough for me for a while.

Nice, I'm in the process of rebuilding my '88 D60. It should be going in next week. I can't wait!

A question, what springs did you use?
What ever came with it. Judging by the stance, I'm guessing diesel or BB gas springs. Either way, I'm just glad I didn't have to use my f250 springs.

Looks good Dan!
How's the ride? I was wondering how you got all that rust till I seen where you live.
Where did you get the sandblaster? Menards?
My truck has always been a rust belt truck, and the previous owner wasn't too good about getting it washed.
Yes, blaster is a cheapo from Menards.
 

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Did you install the trac bar? If not, get one on there ASAP.

Also, did you change the rear block to F350 ones?

Billy T.
[email protected]
 

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OBS junkie
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Nice writeup, mine is sitting just like your's right now on jack stands, the TTB is coming off tonight.
 

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what does your clearance look like between the front diff and the crossmember. ive heard that you might have to notch it because it can make contact
 

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97 250 7.3 PowerStroke
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Cowboy Dan. I am looking at doing this to mine. Do you happen to know the years to look for as far as Axles. I have a 97. Thanks for the parts list. That will help too
 

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Bigfoot is an OBS
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3,462 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
what does your clearance look like between the front diff and the crossmember. ive heard that you might have to notch it because it can make contact
Well, wheel height is the same, so the axle centerline to the ground is the same. But, the whole front end sits a good 2-3" taller with the better springs of the D60. I measured and my D60 has the gear housing the same distance from the spring pads as the D50 did, so it is the same distance from the centerline of the truck as the D50.
See below:

Cowboy Dan. I am looking at doing this to mine. Do you happen to know the years to look for as far as Axles. I have a 97. Thanks for the parts list. That will help too
BillaVista wrote a 'front Dana 60 bible' that covers just about all you will need to know: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index.html
The only thing his articles don't cover is between '80 and '86. This seems to be a gray area from all that I've seen.

The guys that had to notch the crossmember probably got a pre-'84/'85/'86ish ('78/'79 style) axle. This axle (78/79) had the gear housing further towards the center of the truck than the later ones.

-Basically as long as it's a high pinion, driver's side pinion, axle with the springs the correct spacing and the gearbox the correct spacing from the spring pads, it will work. That basically covers from '85/'86ish-'97.
-The kingpin axles will require modifying the brake hose ends as shown above, or replacing them with correct year hoses.
-Kingpin axles have slightly smaller diameter brake rotors, and different design mounting for the calipers, so none of the brake parts will cross from BJ to KP axles. If you get a BJ axle of the correct year range, you can re-use the calipers, pads, etc... from the D50 axle.

If in doubt, compare the parts and what years they're used on: http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=801
A very handy parts book. But the local NAPA may not stock everything shown there. But it is a fairly easy way to compare steering & suspension parts vs years.
 

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what size tires you going to be running?:peeman:
 

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firehog,

You can use 86-97 F350 Dana 60's. All of them are a direct bolt in, however the 86-91 kingpin axles use different brakes. This is not a big deal, you just have to use brakes from those years. I have a 91 kingpin axle on my truck and it stops WAY better than it ever did when it was stock, so if you're worried about the brakes, don't be. 80-85 F350 came with the Dana 50TTB front axle, not a Dana 60 and 79 & older F350 Dana 60's have a lot of differences so you will want to stay away from those also.



Dave
 

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Bigfoot is an OBS
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I finally got the steering hooked up fairly straight. I got the '96 F350 LH tierod end from NAPA (Part that connects to the pitman arm is the same as connects to the LH spindle), a '96 adjusting sleeve, and a '85 adjusting sleeve. The '96 tierod end fit beautifully in the pitman arm, confirming that the one that came onthe axle was the wrong taper.
I cut both new sleeves in half, and welded one of the halves from each year together to make a converting adjustment sleeve. Then I still couldn't get the steering wheel even close to straight because the tierod end was hitting on the connecting arm inside the adjusting sleeve. So, had to cut about 5/8" off the end of the tierod end as it had the most threads exposed. That got the steering wheel pretty close to center. At least, close enough I can now see ALL my dash at the same time. Previously the wheel was so far off center it blocked either the tachometer, or the speedometer.

To put the converting sleeve on takes some patience as you have to get start one side first to get the adjusting rod and connecting rod to meet exactly in the middle of the sleeve where the weld is. If you go too far one way, the M22 gets to the center first, which isn't much of a problem as it will fit inside the threads of the 1"-18 sleeve. But, the other way around is a royal PITA since it has to come back off and you get to guess again. But don't worry, 3-4 times of that and you get fairly good at it.

Steering is much more responsive with the D60 than the TTB. I feel most bumps and potholes in the wheel now. Before it was just mush, and if you did feel it in the wheel, it meant you also hit hard enough your head is probably connected with the cab roof.

One thing I have noticed that I did not expect is the extra body roll in cornering. Evidently the short distance to the bump stops on the worn-out TTB meant it acted like a very-poor-man's stabilizer bar. The D60 I got did not include the stabilizer bar, though it has the mounts for it.
 

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STILL LEARNING
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I hope your a dam good welder! I would NEVER weld a adjustment sleave, no less weld 2 together:eek:
 

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OBS junkie
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Mine will FINALLY be together tomorrow, I'll post pics.
 

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Cowboy Dan, could you post some pics of the front end. Something doesn't make sense.

The D60 between 92-94 are ball-jointed but utilize slide pin calipers.

Billy T.
[email protected]
 
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