Ford Power Stroke Nation banner

1 - 20 of 81 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've read where a lot of you guys run a hose to the rear of the truck and let the crank case vent to the atmosphere. I was thinking about doing something similar except i was thinking of putting an oil catch can in line. What i mean by this is run the hose coming directly from the DS valve cover to the catch can, then running a hose from where the filter would usually go on the catch can to the rear of the truck. I'm sure i'll have to empty every so often but that doesnt bother me. I was just worried about oil residue being all under my truck and also constant oil/fuel/juices dripping.

What do you guys think? Good idea or a waste of time? Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,018 Posts
ive got 1 on my truck just like you described, runs from the doghouse to the catch can and then some hose to the back axle were it just vents the vapor.. i did it to clean up the mess inside the intercooler tubes and boots and just vented it... think i have like 30-40$ in mine and got everything from lowes..........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Good deal just wanted some more input. Pretty sure i can do one for under $50 so i might give it a try. thanks
 

·
Catfish Mafia
Joined
·
397 Posts
i've got mine just run through a hose, no catch can. i would like to filter it and have a barrier between my valve cover and the atmosphere though. anybody have a link or part number to the can?
 

·
owner/president
Joined
·
2,768 Posts
I got one of my catch cans from Jegs and i have made the other ones from pvc on my other trucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,865 Posts

·
Catfish Mafia
Joined
·
397 Posts
thanks tarm, i got the picture now. i just been too lazy to search it and havent really thought about it lately! :doh: gonna work on that soon as i am running right again! :ford:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,865 Posts
No worries and gld I could help. Wasn't trying to ride you about it. There is so much great info tucked away in this forums pages. People that have less experinces such as myself I feel can learn so much from taking time when they have it to do some searching and digging.

Glad the pictures coudl help. If you do plan on routing it out the back after the can I suggest getting the two barbed fittings with 90degree turns on them. Set your incoming at about 1/2-2/3 from the bottom with the fitting pointing up for easy routing of the line from the valve cover. Then a 90 on the very top pointing to the rear of the vehicle to help it route straight. Use a pvc ball valve with a small piece of pvc pipe to stub out of the bottom of the can to attach it to. 1/2 or small ball valve is plenty. Or you can use a barrbed fitting at the bottom to a piece of hose to a ball valve secured seperately. Just make sure it the lowest point.

I find the 90s help cause mroe collection of the oil msit into drops that fall to the bottom of the can. By putting exit onthe top you get the least amout of oil exiting. Having the entrance at at least 1/2 but not to much higher allows for it get the oil out but be plenty high above the collection of oil. Drain it with each oil change leaving it open at he start and clsoe it as the final step gives it plenty of time. It will not be too much.

I alos cutthe ends of the barrbe fitting so they were clsoe to flush ith the side walls of the PVC tube. Rather than have then protuding way into the can. Drill the hole to the small diameter of the threads onteh barrebed fittng or you can find some you can find that have enough smooth area after the threading or barrbed parts to use it to glue into the hole very much like normla pvc pipe glue connections. When you get them and start looking at it all you will understand better if its sounds off right now. There are few differnt ways to skin this cat that work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Tarm, good info. You've got my head working and thinking of different possibilities.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,865 Posts
That is the whole point. Figure out from exmaples to get you started what will work best for you. On this I do not think there is any one perferct way, to many variables. Its actually a fun easy project.
 

·
Village Idiot
Joined
·
8,209 Posts
Just be sure your state doesn't have a visual inspection otherwise you need to return it
(Although now filtered from oil) back to the intake.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,865 Posts
In my county in VA we have no emissions what so ever, no gas and certianly no diesel.
 

·
All done now
Joined
·
22,486 Posts
Just be sure your state doesn't have a visual inspection otherwise you need to return it
(Although now filtered from oil) back to the intake.
That's what I did with mine. From the cover, down to the catch can. From the catch can, back to the intake tube.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
504 Posts
I have one of those overpriced catch can kits that are sold and it still doesnt filter out the oil. My boots were still getting dirty after 2 years of it on my truck so I know it wasnt the buildup that was in my system getting ran through. I just have it venting from the can to the atmosphere now. Trust me, if you want a catch can kit follow the intructions on how to build it and dont buy it. You may just end up paying 100 bucks for some PVC and a few plastic brillow pads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,865 Posts
That is the other helpful part. You want to give the vapors as many surfaces to collect on so they drip down to the bottom. That is another benefit of the 90 turn fittings and steel or plastic wool netting. Still there will always be some oil in the fumes other wise it would be coming out clear. What the catch can, 90s, and loose media does is stops the dripping from the hose or takes it to a very low min to where you do not have a spot on your driveway. Those oens for $350 is crazy for something made to trap oil. that can be made ofr $20-$30. That hose is routed back into the intake so not much hose but you could route out the back of CC LB with 1" and still be well under $100
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
504 Posts
Another note would be to use oil resistant hose. Heater hose works, but mine turned almost gummy and began to deteriorate. I replaced it with some oil resistant about a month ago and so far so good. I used this stuff from Gooding Rubber Company. IIRC it was 1.27/ft or 1.67/ft, I cant remember exactly. I think I ordered 10ft just to be safe, I didnt route it back up to the intake either.
Multi-Purpose Oil Resistant Hose | Industrial Hoses | Gooding Rubber
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,865 Posts
Yes, I used something similar and oil resistant. The petroleum breaks down some hose material as does their byproducts from the combustion.

How much oil are you geting out of the can?
 

·
All done now
Joined
·
22,486 Posts
I bought a 15 foot piece of 3/4 ID diesel fuel hose from Northern tool for like 17 bucks. Worked perfect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
504 Posts
Yes, I used something similar and oil resistant. The petroleum breaks down some hose material as does their byproducts from the combustion.

How much oil are you geting out of the can?
I used to get some, probably 3 tablespoons every 5k miles, somewhere around that, never really measured it. I havent checked the can since I switched it over to venting to atmosphere. It might be a little less now since the vapor isnt all contained now.
 
1 - 20 of 81 Posts
Top