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2006 f250 KR 191k miles
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys looking for advice on my 06 f250 I have a definite HPO leak and I’m not sure what needs to be replaced as in standpipes/ dummy plugs or what. ICP sensor was just replaced about 600 miles ago now I have a crank no start and am only building about 100-180 psi of ICP. Thanks in advance!
 

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Your best best is to do an air test using an IPR adapter. There are a whole bunch to choose from HERE. If you already have it torn down so you can get to the IPR, you can use a big wrench to get it out. If you still have it buttoned up, you can get one of the kits which includes the socket. Personally, I'd get the kit with the socket just so I'd have it for future use. Anyway, when selecting which adapter kit to get, make sure they specify that the IPR adapter takes a 1/4 NPT air hose fitting. The first one I bought years ago didn't specify....it was a metric size which required an o-ring, so I had to figure out what to buy to make an adapter.

Once you have the adapter installed and the air hose hooked up, you will want to remove the oil fill cap (passenger side), pop out the tube on the CCV port (drivers side), take out the oil filter (I like to place it into a plastic bowl to catch some oil for use later...I'll explain in a bit), and remove the plug you have put into the HPOP cover turbo drain port. Next, apply air pressure and listen for leaks. How much pressure? As much as your compressor can do, but typically 120-150 is acceptable. Regardless of where the leak is located, you will hear air escaping from the oil fill, the CCV port, and the turbo drain tube port. However, if it is louder on one side, that USUALLY means the leak is on that side of the engine. For example, you hear a hiss from everywhere but it's loudest on the passenger side; this generally means you will find a leak on that side, whether it's injector top ring, oil rail nipple cup o-ring, or the standpipe/dummy plug. If the loudest hiss comes from the drain port, then the leak may be the STC fitting or the HPOP to block o-ring....or possibly, though not likely on an '06, the end seal on the HPOP itself. If the sounds are all equal, either you have leaks everywhere or just can't tell which is louder. lol If you have no hissing, you will probably get a gurgling noise from the oil filter housing. If you get the gurgle, it means the HPOP itself is bad. This is comparatively rare on an '06.

So what if you still have the turbo attached and can't listen through that drain port? Just listen at the oil fill and CCV port. If neither side is louder, then your leak is somewhere under that HPOP cover.

Once you know there is a leak, how do you find it? If it's on a side, pull the valve cover off, apply air, and just look. Sometimes you will see it easily. Sometimes you can't. Myself, I put some of the oil that drained off the filter into a little syringe (I bought one of those meat marinade injection syringes from Cabellas) and apply some oil around each injector seal. If the oil bubbles up, it's the injector seal. If it gets visibly blown down, it's the nipple cup seal. If nothing happens on any of the injectors, then it's the stand pipe and/or dummy plug. If the hissing came from under the HPOP cover, it should be quite obvious what is at fault. You can just put your hand by the STC fitting and feel the air. If you can't feel anything then it's probably the o-ring under the HPOP.

If you do the air test and don't get any leaks or gurgling, check out your IPR, as that's what is likely to be at fault.

Just a thought, but if you get in there and have one nipple cup o-ring which is bad, I would personally just go ahead and replace all four. Same thing kinda goes for the stand pipes and dummy plugs. If you still have the old style and have a leak on one side, I'd replace both sides. Injectors are a different animal....I would only replace one injector top seal at a time, because you can only get those by buying an entire injector o-ring kit, so it's not exactly cheap. Plus, it's really difficult (for me at least) to replace them while the injector is in the engine, so it adds even more labor and time to the project since I always wind up removing the injector.

Hopefully I haven't made anything confusing or missed anything. Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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You know, I should have asked this first.....what % does your IPR show when you're getting that 100-180 PSI? Also, have you tried starting it with the ICP unplugged?
 

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2006 f250 KR 191k miles
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for the detailed explanation that really did help as I have never done an air test before! And I’m sorr I should have noted I do not have a way to check ipr % because my monitor doesn’t do that but the ipr was replaced 3 days ago because I believed that to be the problem out of hope that it would fix it also yes I did unplug the ICP sensor with no change happening!
 

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If you don't mind shelling out a couple bucks, download the TorquePro app and the FORScan app (this one is about $5 I think). They will pull codes, monitor all values, etc, etc. You will need different adapters depending on whether you have an Android or iPhone. If you have an Android you want THIS ONE. If you have an iPhone you will want THIS ONE. There are other brands of adapters out there, but this one has proven to be the best. I had a different brand for years and it worked fine...or so I thought. I bought a BAFX because I wanted to have a spare and when using the BAFX certain options on the FORScan came up which hadn't worked before, and some PIDs on Torque which never showed up suddenly worked. So IMO, it's worth it for the extra 7 bucks. Anyway, using these will allow you to view your IPR % and diagnose SOOOOOOO much more.

If you replaced your IPR and tried disconnecting the ICP, then I would say you have a leak. Verify with that IPR % once you can check that and if it's 85% (as I suspect) do the air test.
 
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