Ford Power Stroke Nation banner
21 - 40 of 64 Posts
Discussion starter · #21 ·
Not necessarily bad -- just most do not know how much to use
especially when glow plugs are involved

You can disconnect the glow plug wire at the passenger battery
then , starting fluid can be used

Thing is when you spray the intake, the vapors have to travel a long ways to get to the engine
so, some will over spray because that "first shot didn't do anything"
and now we have too much in the engine and it knocks or kicks back on the starter

About a 1 second spray, then crank -- then 1 more second
should be plenty to get a fire
Then continue with 1 second sprays if needed to keep the engine running
just put in a new camshaft position sensor as that was what the code was saying after clearing multiple times. still no start, is there anyway to check the wiring on the harness going to the pcm? really wanna get this thing going
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
You should have no problem starting it after 3 weeks of sitting - if everything is working properly.

Sounds like a fuel delivery issue if it starts with ether (which I absolutely HATE to see people use). Hopefully you are at least disabling the glow plug system when you use ether!
hey so if im not getting ficm sync does that narrow it down to cam and crank issue or is it still worth it to replace ficm. im still having the no start, i firstly replaced the crank sensor with ford oem, then it started to throw the cam sensor code so i replaced that with a non oem they had at the autostore. is it possible thats a bad sensor or is it more than likely bad cam sensor wiring, how do i go about fixing the cam sensor wiring, and or check to make sure that the issue, if im getting rpm then crank sensor is good?
 
If you have a stable rpm signal, then the crank sensor is PROBABLY good.

Your "lack of Sync" issue very well could be due to an aftermarket CMP sensor. I have seen this multiple times.

It could also be a FICM issue, or an issue with the wiring between the PCM and FICM, or even (rare) a PCM issue.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
If you have a stable rpm signal, then the crank sensor is PROBABLY good.

Your "lack of Sync" issue very well could be due to an aftermarket CMP sensor. I have seen this multiple times.

It could also be a FICM issue, or an issue with the wiring between the PCM and FICM, or even (rare) a PCM issue.
okay now how do i test to see if the sensor is good because at first i replaced the crankshaft sensor and that started the no start, before that the truck started as i stated then it sat for two weeks i replaced the sensor and the truck would just crank. then the scanner threw the camshaft pos sensor code, so i replaced that with non oem. can i check the continuity of the pigtail if so how do i do that?
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Start from the beginning. We need cranking data:
rpm
FICM Sync
Cam/Crank Sync
FICM MPower
FICM VPower
FICM LPower
Injector Pulse Width
ICP pressure, psia
ICP volts
IPR % duty cycle
V-reference voltage
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Start from the beginning. We need cranking data:
rpm
FICM Sync
Cam/Crank Sync
FICM MPower
FICM VPower
FICM LPower
Injector Pulse Width
ICP pressure, psia
ICP volts
IPR % duty cycle
V-reference voltage
okay so i need help with how to get injector pulse width, and v-reference voltage unless thats just battery voltage. i have a scangauge II im using to gather all of the other data. im gonna give the batteries one good charge and i will get back to you with all the other information in an hour or two.
 
VREF​
TXD: 07E0221155​
RXF: 046205110655​
RXD: 3010​
MTH: 000133330000​
NAM: CVI​

Fuel Injector Pulse Width (microseconds)​
TXD: 07E0221410​
RXF: 046205140610​
RXD: 3010​
MTH: 000800010000​
NAM: FPW​
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
thanks man, ill get back with you soon. appreciate it
Start from the beginning. We need cranking data:
rpm
FICM Sync
Cam/Crank Sync
FICM MPower
FICM VPower
FICM LPower
Injector Pulse Width
ICP pressure, psia
ICP volts
IPR % duty cycle
V-reference voltage
rpm-53
ficm M power-47.5
ICP- 1756
ficm sync- 0
ficm V power- started at 12.5 on crank and slowly dropped to 10.5 in 5 seconds
ficm L power- started at 12 on crank and slowly dropped, got to 10 in 5 seconds
IPW- 0
ICP V- 0.12
IPR- 75
v-reference- 5
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
If rpms are truly only 53, then I would begin there.

You need 150 rpm for a reliable start.
okay, the crank sounds much faster then i would assume 53 rpm sounds. what would cause this number to be faulty or what would cause this to be so low. it was cranking strong, at least sounds so, wasnt a slow crank. i just replaced the crank sensor with a new motocraft 2 weeks ago.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
okay, the crank sounds much faster then i would assume 53 rpm sounds. what would cause this number to be faulty or what would cause this to be so low. it was cranking strong, at least sounds so, wasnt a slow crank. i just replaced the crank sensor with a new motocraft 2 weeks ago.
If rpms are truly only 53, then I would begin there.

You need 150 rpm for a reliable start.
other than the rpm, by looking at the data what would he the issue causing a no start.
 
You aren't getting 1700 psi. That is why I needed to see ICP sensor volts. The sensor is only seeing atmospheric pressure (that is what drives the voltage output). The 1700 psi is an assumed value by the PCM. It is not real.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
You aren't getting 1700 psi. That is why I needed to see ICP sensor volts. The sensor is only seeing atmospheric pressure (that is what drives the voltage output). The 1700 psi is an assumed value by the PCM. It is not real.
so then i have a hpop issue too? when we used the snap on scanner, we were getting good icp there too. like it said actual pressure and it was low then a few cranks later, it went back up. where do i go from here? i really want to get this thing on the road again
 
You don't really know what actual pressure is unless you used a manual gauge. With a scan tool you ONLY look at the sensor output voltage.

Maybe the ICP sensor is not working, but there is no evidence of it not working.

It is very clear - you have proper v-reference voltage (feeding the ICP sensor), and if the sensor is working, there is a defined output curve for the pressure it sees. Ford has published a table on it. I have that table, and I created a graphical relationship for voltage vs pressure.

It is what it is.

Anyway. there are numerous reasons for not having high pressure oil pressure. It isn't just the HPOP .......
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
You don't really know what actual pressure is unless you used a manual gauge. With a scan tool you ONLY look at the sensor output voltage.

Maybe the ICP sensor is not working, but there is no evidence of it not working.

It is very clear - you have proper v-reference voltage (feeding the ICP sensor), and if the sensor is working, there is a defined output curve for the pressure it sees. Ford has published a table on it. I have that table, and I created a graphical relationship for voltage vs pressure.

It is what it is.

Anyway. there are numerous reasons for not having high pressure oil pressure. It isn't just the HPOP .......
thanks for all the info it has been very helpful to talk to someone that’s knowledgeable on these engines. where do i go from here? is it best to just take it to a shop and put money into it or what are my diagnostic steps?
 
21 - 40 of 64 Posts