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Discussion Starter #1
So in trying to check out my IPR Valve I noticed some air blowing when I turned the key on. It sounded like it’s coming from the filter housing. So I got to looking and found a small crack. My question is, will this possibly cause a no start type situation?

I’m sure it got cracked when I had the engine pulled to do the bed plate seals.

Now I can’t get the silly thing to start. The ipr is not registering anything on my scan gauge. And I’m getting 0 on the icp. My guess is the ipr is bad since it’s not registering any duty cycle. Am I on the right track?

It’s an 07 model btw. Thanks!


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"resident smarty pants"
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If you have no IPR % duty cycle, then there is an issue preventing the PCM from commanding it.

The IPR % duty cycle value is a commanded value ONLY. It does not represent anything at all with regards to the IPR valve position or actual operation.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well if you got air coming out of the fuel filter there, that would certainly cause a no start.


Perfect. That was what I wanted to hear. I’m planning on installing a new one if the dealer has it in the morning. I just wanted a confirmation of what I thought. Thank you.

I still don’t fully understand the ipr duty cycle issue but I’ll cross that bridge later I guess.


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Well now, if you are actually pushing air out of there, that means the pump isnt pumping fuel into that bowl. So, if thats the case, you have a deeper issue at hand.
 

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A crack in the fuel filter bowl will not be responsible for no IPR command from the PCM - period.

In fact, you should see fuel leaking out, and if it isn't much fuel then it wouldn't be the cause of the no-start. The PCM has no way of knowing that a crack and a leak exists.

The fuel pump can deliver quite a bit of fuel and a tiny leak at that point wouldn't impact fuel delivery.

As stated above, air coming out at that point is an issue caused by other things wrong.

I think I would be doing a bubble test as soon as possible ....

I would also be looking to see if I had cam/crank sync and FICM sync when cranking. Also look for a fuel pulse width signal and the cranking rpm value.
 

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You the one that pulled the bed plate seals out with the front cover? I remember that, glad you got em resealed.

Why don't you pull the cap and see if there is fuel or not?

Sometimes these engines take forever to start after extensive work and sometimes they start right up. No idea why.

Also, without any ipr command, she ain't gonna start, regardless of fuel.

Just some thoughts.
 

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Depends on the work you did bud. Like if you pulled injectors, you gotta pull the oil rails to get to em, which you end up at least partially draining. Pump's gotta build that pressure again, which may take a bit.

Now you got an idea why.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The seam on the filter housing was split. I think the chain put that gouge in it and caused the split. I installed a new one and went ahead with the blue spring upgrade too.

Yeah I got everything sealed back up. But I don’t have much oil pressure now. It’s only filling the filter housing about ½ way when I tested the base oil pressure. And no signal to the gauge. I’ve cranked for days on this thing and it’ll sputter and “run” for maybe a second before dying again.

I’m loosing my religion over this thing not starting. It’s infuriating.

Any ideas where I should go next?


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Low on oil pressure now? Not sure I get the logic there maybe missed something What was the ipr problemz? If that is not an issue now with the ipr I say drive it and see if it smooths out the readings on it's own. While closely monitoring the gauges of course.
 

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Depends on the work you did bud. Like if you pulled injectors, you gotta pull the oil rails to get to em, which you end up at least partially draining. Pump's gotta build that pressure again, which may take a bit.

Now you got an idea why.
Actually, to some extent, it doesn't seem to matter. I've seen them fire up after 30 seconds and run perfect. I've also seen them take 5 minutes just to start, and take forever to purge all the air, missing the entire time. All from the same work performed.
 

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The seam on the filter housing was split. I think the chain put that gouge in it and caused the split. I installed a new one and went ahead with the blue spring upgrade too.

Yeah I got everything sealed back up. But I don’t have much oil pressure now. It’s only filling the filter housing about ½ way when I tested the base oil pressure. And no signal to the gauge. I’ve cranked for days on this thing and it’ll sputter and “run” for maybe a second before dying again.

I’m loosing my religion over this thing not starting. It’s infuriating.

Any ideas where I should go next?


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To a repair shop
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Low on oil pressure now? Not sure I get the logic there maybe missed something What was the ipr problemz? If that is not an issue now with the ipr I say drive it and see if it smooths out the readings on it's own. While closely monitoring the gauges of course.


Yeah it’s not logical. I don’t get it. Guess I’m going to try to rig up a mechanical gauge to check the oil pressure.

The ipr was a wire issue. I redid the pigtail and all the heat shields. Now it’s giving the correct readings.


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Did you align the front cover and lpop housing correctly? Did you pack the gears with white grease on installation? Did you reuse the gears or get new ones?
 
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