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A quick home test to test the valves…take some washer fluid and pour in down the ports, and then see if the fluid leaks past the valves.

I did edit my post sorry you posted too quickly haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
I showed these pictures to another diesel mechanic a neighbor suggested. This is heart surgery so I wanted a second opinion. The other mechanic said you might be able to get away with just honing it, but the block should be checked to make sure it's not cracked. I thought that was a good suggestion considering the rust. I contacted the local diesel machine shop he suggested. Just an over the phone, the machinist took the information, looked up some information and called me back. He stated they could clean, check the heads, replace valves and seats if required, rebore the block, hone, and stated something about the "cam" bearings (I need to look that up) for $850 labor. Any parts required would be extra. Sounds reasonable. I'll check the other engine shop in the area to see if they do diesel engines, but considering machining is machining, I think they could also do it and see what the difference in price is. I suspect it's probably not much. I don't think I have any crank shaft or rod issues (spun bearings and such) so I believe I can just replace all the bearings with standard sized bearings, and "rebuild" this engine with MAHLE rebuild kit. It comes with new pistons and rings so if they have to rebore, then I can get oversized pistons.
I have to figure out how to pull this engine and see where to go from there.
 

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It is pretty standard for a machine shop to magnaflux when doing this work. Cam bearings should be replaced they are correct. You can only do this with the cam out and the engine mount.

You’re right, depending on how much material needs to be removed with the hone you “MIGHT” be able to get away with it, but it needs to be measured with a dial bore gauge. I would be surprised if it doesn’t but hope for your sake it it doesn’t. Keep in mind these are CGI blocks (like the duramax) and may require special diamond cutters if boring is required. Not all machine shops have these. Just to keep in mind. Good luck. Depending how the crank looks I would at least have it polished.

The rod bolts are one time use, I also strongly recommend getting to main cap bolts. Also going to need exhaust manifold studs and nuts. All those hard lines for the HPF system will be to replaced (again) as they’re one time use.

The full engine gasket kit from mahle is very complete if you can get it. Otherwise I would source gaskets from ford.

A tip when installing the crankshaft. If you have more than one main cap of at a time, the crank doesn’t like to turn from block distortion. The side bolts suck everything tight and will move when you torque those up. (They are last to be tightened). I suggest buying the ford WSM or some kind of database for torque specs and sequences for you to have and follow
 
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