Ford Power Stroke Nation banner
21 - 40 of 65 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,418 Posts
Ok. Then your FRP pressure sensor/wiring mY be ok. Have you gone over your low side just to double check things? Like I said the way you are describing things is very unusual
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,418 Posts
I decently positive the LP works as intended, but I will put a fuel pressure gauge on it tomorrow and verify. I have the correct adapter hoses now.
If you can disconnect the supply line from the filter to the pump and run it into a bucket from the filter with just key on.

A fuel pressure gauge tied into the system if you have one will work also.

Edit: just saw that you do have them. Let me know what you find
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I don't have the correct adapter. I need a 310-159 fuel adapter.
I did originally disconnect the fuel line from the engine fuel filter and ran it to a bucket that was earlier in this thread. I got about 2 qts or so in less than 30 seconds just with key on and the pid changed from low to not low. When I attempt to start, I click the key to start and let go and the engine constantly cranks for around 10 seconds. I'm still thinking I have a bad PCV even with the change simple because the M test states that with VCV low duty and PCV high fuel shouldn't flow from left to right, but mine flow constantly and the test states that if fuel flow is always present install a new PCV. That or I have a bad wire controlling the thing. A new one will be here at the end of the week and I'll try again.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,418 Posts
I don't have the correct adapter. I need a 310-159 fuel adapter.
I did originally disconnect the fuel line from the engine fuel filter and ran it to a bucket that was earlier in this thread. I got about 2 qts or so in less than 30 seconds just with key on and the pid changed from low to not low. When I attempt to start, I click the key to start and let go and the engine constantly cranks for around 10 seconds. I'm still thinking I have a bad PCV even with the change simple because the M test states that with VCV low duty and PCV high fuel shouldn't flow from left to right, but mine flow constantly and the test states that if fuel flow is always present install a new PCV. That or I have a bad wire controlling the thing. A new one will be here at the end of the week and I'll try again.
Hold the key longer than the auto crank. Don’t be afraid of 20+ seconds at a time. 10 seconds isn’t enough to build much pressure when the system has been opened.

I usually just put them on a battery charger and once the low side is bled out I just hold the key until it runs. It’s usually 20 seconds or so. Just give time for the starter to cool. Watch the fuel pressure pid. Once it starts to move, don’t let it stop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I got the new PCV in and installed it. I took the feed line off the right side fuel rail and ran the fuel pump collecting the fuel in a black bucket. I could some what control the fuel with the PCV depending on what duty cycle I set on the VCV because I still don't know what the lowest duty cycle is on the VCV. I hooked the line back up and tried to start but same error. It cranks but won't start. I made sure I cleaned my bucket thoroughly before starting because I thought I saw this last time but chocked it up to the bucket not being clean. I noticed that the bucket with fuel had some glitter in it. Little silver flakes with the back drop of the black bucket. I am pretty sure I broke my HPFP doing the compression test. I can only guess that the system was low on fuel and the HPFP didn't have enough diesel in it to lubricate as I was cycling the starter. The manual does say to warm the engine up first before doing the compression test. Regardless, no matter how long I lay on the key, I am not getting any high pressure fuel readings.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,418 Posts
If you have metal coming from the pump, you need to replace everything on the high side (pump, rails, all injectors, fuel feed/return lines). Basically everything on the engine for the fuel system, and flush out the low side and make sure the contamination didn’t make it back to the tank. If it did you have to clean that, too. It’s going to be expensive and a little time consuming for DIY. The disaster kits are on back order also…good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
If you have metal coming from the pump, you need to replace everything on the high side (pump, rails, all injectors, fuel feed/return lines). Basically everything on the engine for the fuel system, and flush out the low side and make sure the contamination didn’t make it back to the tank. If it did you have to clean that, too. It’s going to be expensive and a little time consuming for DIY. The disaster kits are on back order also…good luck.
I found one at Home - Pensacola Fuel Injection (pensacoladiesel.com) part no EC3Z-9B246-C. They had OEM's and reman's in stock. This is time sensitive information so probably won't be of use to future viewers but maybe to someone you know or currently looking. Not the best price I found for the kit, but still a good price considering the cost of fuel injectors. I bought the OEM because reasons. It will be here on Wednesday. Hopefully, I can get this thing up and running by next Monday.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,418 Posts
Their kits have OEM new fuel injectors? What about the CP4? It liked like the pump and injectors were their own and the rails and other parts are ford. That price is not bad at all the kits directly through the dealer are alot more money.

I would triple check that low pressure pump and if there is ANY question it’s not up to par I would replace it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Their kits have OEM new fuel injectors? What about the CP4? It liked like the pump and injectors were their own and the rails and other parts are ford. That price is not bad at all the kits directly through the dealer are alot more money.

I would triple check that low pressure pump and if there is ANY question it’s not up to par I would replace it
It does say "Genuine Ford OEM Fuel Contamination Kit " I know certain shops can get an OEM discount by buying in bulk. Maybe they have some deal going and now just need to reduce inventory. I don't know. I guess I'll find out when it gets here.
I'll triple check the low fuel. Maybe I can find that 310-159 fuel adapter while I'm waiting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I looked at the details for that link. Make sure you read the fine print.
Kit arrived yesterday. The pump and parts are all Ford MoCo parts and the pump is a Bosch HPFP. The injectors, I'm not sure. They do have an IQA lasered on them but they aren't stamp Ford MoCo. I started installing. I'll write up how it went. I am part time with work and of course it started raining.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Everything is installed and she started but she didn't want to. When looking at the pids I noticed that the fuel pressure 69.5 PSI when the KOEOff. I thought that was a good sign. I bled the fuel, programmed the IQAs and hit the start. It just cranked for 10 seconds then nothing. I thought crap. Cycled the key and tried again. Same. I did it a few more times. In one of those times, I notice it when from 69 to 110 PSI and I remembered something you said to just lay on the key once you started building pressure. So I did that, 110, 230, 1000, OMG she lit and I think my heart jumped out of my chest. SO THANK YOU for helping me out.

The install of the contamination kit wasn't that bad just grueling. Honestly getting stuff off was harder than getting it on. When it came to return fuel line on the injectors, I broke the tabs on #3 and #8. #3 is right below the EGR cooler (more on that later) and has a AC line right in the way. I can see why shops charge so much to do this job. I can also see why people just want to lift the cab to do this. With the cab lifted, the AC line goes with the cab and is out of the way, but you would have to evacuate the AC or somehow disconnect the compressor and evap coil and send it with the cab. Either one of those is time consuming. For #8 the brake pump is right in the way along with the steering linkage. With the cab up it's out of the way but you would have to drain master cylinder and disconnect the brake lines from the frame and the same with steering. The return fuel line comes with the kit so not a big loss. Take some pictures so you can figure out how that's routed. I got mine back in but I doubt I routed like it was. Don't worry about saving the plastic clips, the new one comes with all new plastic clips.
I took the intakes off removed the battery/degas tank and battery/wiper fluid tank to make access easier. I had to drain the radiator. I disconnected the plumbing from the rails and then removed the rails. I loosened all the injector bolts and used the "turn the hold down bracket upside down and tap with a hammer" trick and all the injectors came right out no need for the $100 tool. I left them in the holes for the time being to keep dirt out. Even though the lines can be taken out individually, they kit comes with all new hold down brackets. You might as well take the old ones out as a unit so you can put the new ones in as a unit. I took the oil feed tube off to make the job easier. There is one hold down bolt and then it unscrews from the head. No matter how I worked it, I could not get the supply line from the left to right to slip past the EGR cooler so I had to remove the EGR cooler. That would have made getting to #3 so much easier.
I removed the upper fan shroud, belt (draw yourself a map of the belt. It won't help you to get it back on but at least you're not trying to figure it out while fighting the belt), and fan/motor, took the vacuum pump off, aligned the timing marks on the fuel pump and cam? then took impact and spun the bolt off. You need a puller to get the gear off. Before you go off to the bolt store, the long bolts in the EGR cooler work. It doesn't take much pressure to pull that gear. You can almost do it by hand. Take the bolts off the back of the HPFP and then a soft mallet tapping on the shaft and the HPFP pops right out. At this point you're just putting stuff back in. My biggest problem was keeping my hands clean while messing the the fuel stuff. I cleaned my hands a lot during that stage. I don't know how you would torque the fuel lines to the rail without a 17 MM fuel line socket. It's a two part torque procedure the same with injector hold down bolts and EGR cooler. Follow your torque specs. When it doubt, it's probably 89in/lb. I had to use a crows foot to torque the lines to the HPFP. Those are not 17 MM. About the only other tool you need is pretty much an 8, 10, or 13 MM socket. Once you get the fan on, run your belt on before putting the fan electric connector on. I buttoned everything up and just put distilled water in it for now. I will flush it out later. It could probably use a good flush.
Keep hold of your bolts. At the very last stage, I lost two hooking the exhaust tube to the lower intake. One fell to the ground, but the the other got swallow up somewhere. I took the lower intake back off and looked everywhere for that bolt. I took one of the others and dropped it several time to see if I could figure where it went. In one of the drops it fell behind the turbo. I manage to see it with an inspection camera, as I was attempting to grab it, it slipped and went somewhere. I looked everywhere I even managed to find a bolt someone else had lost but could not find those bolts. I searched from the back of the engine forward I don't know where they went. Another problem was they are not magnetic. I thought about taking the turbo off but after looking at the procedure, I gave up. I'll have to replace them when the bolt store opens up. That was my only bolt mismanagement. I didn't have any left overs. I did the trick of putting the bolts in their holes as much as possible.
Hope my experience helps someone.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,418 Posts
You removed pretty much all the things I do. You do pull the cooler to do the passenger. I usually rotate the injectors side to side before pulling them up. That breaks them free and they come out super easy that way.

It is labor intensive but as you said, no hard. And yes, flared crows feet are a must for a fuel lines. That is what I use.

Glad you got it up and running. You saved yourself a lot of money in labor of paying some one to do it.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,418 Posts
What does the CCT test with the IDS show? High or low on the graph ?

For the hell of it, did you try to relearn CKPS?

Does the starter sound like it has an even load on it while cranking over?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
What does the CCT test with the IDS show? High or low on the graph ?

For the hell of it, did you try to relearn CKPS?

Does the starter sound like it has an even load on it while cranking over?
I don't have IDS. With my Autel scanner, I can do cylinder balance test. All the cylinder except #4 show a fairly straight line. #4 dips way down. I can rev the engine and during high rev it still dips down.
I'll see if my scanner can do a CKPS (crank shaft position sensor?) reset
The starter sounds even while cranking and I did do a manual compression test with all the cylinder reading fairly close to one another.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,418 Posts
What was number 4 compared to the rest? Did you try performing crankshaft relearn?

Does the truck feel like it has a subtle misfire, or not subtle ?

You may have to do a leak down test on that cylinder.
 
21 - 40 of 65 Posts
Top