Ok. Then your FRP pressure sensor/wiring mY be ok. Have you gone over your low side just to double check things? Like I said the way you are describing things is very unusual
I decently positive the LP works as intended, but I will put a fuel pressure gauge on it tomorrow and verify. I have the correct adapter hoses now.Just to clarify, your actual measured FRP KOEO and cranking is 0?
Also are you SURE your low pressure side is fully functional?
If you can disconnect the supply line from the filter to the pump and run it into a bucket from the filter with just key on.I decently positive the LP works as intended, but I will put a fuel pressure gauge on it tomorrow and verify. I have the correct adapter hoses now.
Hold the key longer than the auto crank. Don’t be afraid of 20+ seconds at a time. 10 seconds isn’t enough to build much pressure when the system has been opened.I don't have the correct adapter. I need a 310-159 fuel adapter.
I did originally disconnect the fuel line from the engine fuel filter and ran it to a bucket that was earlier in this thread. I got about 2 qts or so in less than 30 seconds just with key on and the pid changed from low to not low. When I attempt to start, I click the key to start and let go and the engine constantly cranks for around 10 seconds. I'm still thinking I have a bad PCV even with the change simple because the M test states that with VCV low duty and PCV high fuel shouldn't flow from left to right, but mine flow constantly and the test states that if fuel flow is always present install a new PCV. That or I have a bad wire controlling the thing. A new one will be here at the end of the week and I'll try again.
I found one at Home - Pensacola Fuel Injection (pensacoladiesel.com) part no EC3Z-9B246-C. They had OEM's and reman's in stock. This is time sensitive information so probably won't be of use to future viewers but maybe to someone you know or currently looking. Not the best price I found for the kit, but still a good price considering the cost of fuel injectors. I bought the OEM because reasons. It will be here on Wednesday. Hopefully, I can get this thing up and running by next Monday.If you have metal coming from the pump, you need to replace everything on the high side (pump, rails, all injectors, fuel feed/return lines). Basically everything on the engine for the fuel system, and flush out the low side and make sure the contamination didn’t make it back to the tank. If it did you have to clean that, too. It’s going to be expensive and a little time consuming for DIY. The disaster kits are on back order also…good luck.
It does say "Genuine Ford OEM Fuel Contamination Kit " I know certain shops can get an OEM discount by buying in bulk. Maybe they have some deal going and now just need to reduce inventory. I don't know. I guess I'll find out when it gets here.Their kits have OEM new fuel injectors? What about the CP4? It liked like the pump and injectors were their own and the rails and other parts are ford. That price is not bad at all the kits directly through the dealer are alot more money.
I would triple check that low pressure pump and if there is ANY question it’s not up to par I would replace it
Kit arrived yesterday. The pump and parts are all Ford MoCo parts and the pump is a Bosch HPFP. The injectors, I'm not sure. They do have an IQA lasered on them but they aren't stamp Ford MoCo. I started installing. I'll write up how it went. I am part time with work and of course it started raining.I looked at the details for that link. Make sure you read the fine print.
I don't have IDS. With my Autel scanner, I can do cylinder balance test. All the cylinder except #4 show a fairly straight line. #4 dips way down. I can rev the engine and during high rev it still dips down.What does the CCT test with the IDS show? High or low on the graph ?
For the hell of it, did you try to relearn CKPS?
Does the starter sound like it has an even load on it while cranking over?