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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased a nib turbo from another member.
He purchased it from Ford. Part number F4TZ-6VK682-CARM. He said he decided not to use it and therefore wanted to sell it. I bought it. I also purchased separately from other vendors a 1.0 drive housing and an ebpv delete pedestal. It's not doing at all what I thought it would. If anything, it's spooling slower. I've checked a lot of different possibilities.
Tonight, while cleaning the old turbo up, I noticed the compressor wheels in the two are completely different. The original wheel looks like it has 2 rows of fins, some behind the others. The fins in the new turbo are in one row, and much flatter. (not pitched as much). Does my "new turbo" have the correct wheel?
Please opine.
 

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FNM
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Your old turbo sounds like the stock wheel. Not sure what you have in the new one.

Here is a pic of the wheel in my new turbo:

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow. I can't believe no one is weighing in on this.
@Iowa- that wheel is the same as my old turbocharger.
Here's the link to the thread with pics:
PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
The pics show the stock wheel the turbo came with from Garrett.
If this wheel is why I'm experiencing no low end boost and getting that chugging/pulsating feeling while accelerating, will a different wheel fix the problem?
I see the original wicked wheel can be bought for under $100.00.
Would that be what I want?
Help.
 

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FNM
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I have not seen that type of wheel before. I know the new turbo I have with the 1.0 housing spools quickly and pulls hard with no pulsating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No doubt I'm going to have to change it.
I've had the turbo back off, inspecting that nothing was obstructing the flow.
I almost bought new up pipes thinking they were leaking.
I paid shop time to have the hpop and fuel pressure checked.
I took the fuel bowl off and completely cleaned the fuel system and regulator.
Replaced a relatively new fuel filter.
Now, I've got to take it off again, AND take it apart.
I guess I'll have to call a turbo shop to see if the wicked wheel is what I need.
I probably isn't a good idea to use the wheel off the old turbo, either.
Damn!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I would be happy with the stock one like is on the original turbo. The one I took off has 5 tall blades and 5 short blades. Any idea why this one has this style wheel? It just doesn't make sense.
$80.00 to buy a stock replacement. Or $230.00 for the WW2. I've got quite a bit into this already. I would have never thought this turbo would have a different wheel.
I guess that's what I get for thinking.
 

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Did you check for leaking manifolds? A 1.0 exhaust housing should make a noticeable increase in low end no lag power.

jrc
 

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obs addiction
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I've tried doesn't work out. If u remove the intake plenum it might. I think it's almost easier to just pull the turbo IMHO
 

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Squeezing out Torque...
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Unfornately... Yes, you have to pull it to change a wheel on OBs. Not enough room between the turbo and plenum... enough that with that sugestion of "if the plenum was off..." ? Having done it enough, it's so tight between those two, that I don't know if you could get the plenum off without pulling the turbo first, never tried that one.

Getting way too much practice at that lately. What made that all a lot easier... Was making a wrench for the exhaust nuts. 15mm boxed end wrench. Torched and bent the head. Cut off the other end and welded on a 3/8" drive socket (to be able to connect to a ratchet or breaker bar). That looks like an old styled distributor wrench. Works good and you can get some torque on it.

Getting that with a wobble socket had caused me problems in the past, when I had one stuck... and I bent the stud trying to torque it off, with that style socket. After doing that once, I re-approached how I did those after that, to the wrench I mentioned above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah, it's tough. The lower, passenger side stud came out when I first pulled it. Had to replace that with a bolt. I made a wrench too. I put a delete pedestal on, and it unbolts a little faster with that. Oh well. I guess I'm going to have to bite the bullet.
 

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Squeezing out Torque...
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Yeah, it's tough. The lower, passenger side stud came out when I first pulled it. Had to replace that with a bolt. I made a wrench too. I put a delete pedestal on, and it unbolts a little faster with that. Oh well. I guess I'm going to have to bite the bullet.
I think (IMHO)that sideline "plus"... is almost worth doing a EVPR deletes on your own equipment. (Making that easier to work on!)

While you are now shopping for a wheel-- I went with Riffraff's billet wheel. I think it is just a little more radical than a WW2 (no hard numbers to support that accept seat of the pants) and think either are worth their cost... But you aren't going to see the mostest from either without a chip and tunes. Otherwise, it's only going to supply what the fuel it's getting can push it, to spin it up. The stock "Ford" tune is very conservative. (Other factors, like intake air and exhaust fall into that also.)
 

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Unfornately... Yes, you have to pull it to change a wheel on OBs. Not enough room between the turbo and plenum... enough that with that sugestion of "if the plenum was off..." ? Having done it enough, it's so tight between those two, that I don't know if you could get the plenum off without pulling the turbo first, never tried that one.



Getting way too much practice at that lately. What made that all a lot easier... Was making a wrench for the exhaust nuts. 15mm boxed end wrench. Torched and bent the head. Cut off the other end and welded on a 3/8" drive socket (to be able to connect to a ratchet or breaker bar). That looks like an old styled distributor wrench. Works good and you can get some torque on it.



Getting that with a wobble socket had caused me problems in the past, when I had one stuck... and I bent the stud trying to torque it off, with that style socket. After doing that once, I re-approached how I did those after that, to the wrench I mentioned above.

Could you post a picture of the wrench? I'm interested to see what that looks like.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
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