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whistle tits
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Billy,

I'm in the middle of this conversion and your thread is very useful. I do have a question or clarification. The way I'm reading your description below, you moved the hole 2 5/8" towards the pivot. The pictures show it being moved a lot less. I measured that it needs to be moved about 5/8" towards the pivot. Can you clarify how much to move the pin?

Thanks,

Bob
The new hole needs to be drilled 2 5/8 from the center of the mounting pin to the center of the new hole, just a bit above the old pin location. Maybe your 5/8 is right??? Idk. I just did my swap this weekend, and am okay with how the stock pedal location feels...
 

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The new hole needs to be drilled 2 5/8 from the center of the mounting pin to the center of the new hole, just a bit above the old pin location. Maybe your 5/8 is right??? Idk. I just did my swap this weekend, and am okay with how the stock pedal location feels...
You might be ok "with the feel" but it's not right. The arm isn't in the correct arc and would recommend to fix it correctly. Would you put 3 tires on a car and leave the other one a totally random size? Feels ok to me....
 

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whistle tits
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You might be ok "with the feel" but it's not right. The arm isn't in the correct arc and would recommend to fix it correctly. Would you put 3 tires on a car and leave the other one a totally random size? Feels ok to me....
Never said it was right, I said it feels okay. I do plan to move it eventually, because it seems like the angle it puts the rod at may cause premature wear on the seal.
 

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I know this is a very old post. However, My truck is drum rear, previous owner has deleted the RABS. This has caused the rear brakes to wear very quickly. I am going to do the hydraboost conversion. Do I need the proportioning valve mentioned early in this post or would I be better off using a external adjustable valve instead?
 

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Deleting RABS has no effect on how the brakes wear.
 
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