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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

The other day, I ordered the new Exhaust Manifolds offered by BD Diesel and had a look at there Crank Case Vent Filter Kit. For those who don't know, these kits are designed to prevent your turbo from becoming a dual purpose oil slinger.

Anyways, I hate the idea of have motor oil shoot out and saturating both the hot side of the turbo/intercooler pipe and the intercooler itself. But aside from the sheer annoyance, I can't think of any significant negative impacts on my truck. I mean, it's not a oftern discussed topic on the nation from what I know...

But then I got to thinking that maybe my intercooler is saturated, which hinders it's ability to cool air... or am I just blowing smoke out of my ass? lol
I am guessing nobody here has sawed open their intercooler to find out have they? If this seem to make sense to you guys, this kit would really make sense and it might be worth while to wash out and degrease the stock intercooler too.

Can anyone shed light pls? Thoughts...
 

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Well, I'm new to the realm of diesels really, but I would recommend doing what I did. Remove CAC pipe leading to the intake and take a look-see. I did that and the inside of the pipe was coated with oil! In fact, when I then took the other side off the CAC about half an ounce or so poured out of the thing. This tells me the inside of the CAC is coated in it too. Like you said, I think the efficiency is now reduced.

When I have the whole top end basically pulled apart for some mods I'm doing I'm going to pull the CAC and give it a good simple green wash to get as much oil out of it as possible. For the future, I built my own CCV filter kit out of some 2" PVC, some end caps, fittings, stainless steel wool and 1" hose. Total cost was about $25. Granted, I won't know just how well it is working until after I get the CAC and CAC tubes cleaned out, but the intake side of the turbo looks much cleaner now!
 

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That BD kit looks way expensive.... do what he said^^^. You could vent to the atmosphere as well, a lot of people do it. I used to but had some scavenging issues and after reading a post on the org where a couple of techs chimed in to describe the actuall function of the ccv I went back to stock and clean the boots every once and a while.
 

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just keep in mind
anytime you mess with the CCV you run the risk of causing oil leaks at the seals

you will go from a positive crank case vent to neutral or even risk pressurizing the crank case if done wrong
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I'm new to the realm of diesels really, but I would recommend doing what I did. Remove CAC pipe leading to the intake and take a look-see. I did that and the inside of the pipe was coated with oil! In fact, when I then took the other side off the CAC about half an ounce or so poured out of the thing. This tells me the inside of the CAC is coated in it too. Like you said, I think the efficiency is now reduced.

When I have the whole top end basically pulled apart for some mods I'm doing I'm going to pull the CAC and give it a good simple green wash to get as much oil out of it as possible. For the future, I built my own CCV filter kit out of some 2" PVC, some end caps, fittings, stainless steel wool and 1" hose. Total cost was about $25. Granted, I won't know just how well it is working until after I get the CAC and CAC tubes cleaned out, but the intake side of the turbo looks much cleaner now!
Weatherlite, I guess my only question for you is how would you go about getting the intercooler dry after soaking the inside with warm water and detergent? It would have to be 100% dry before reinstalling after all, you wouldn't want to get any water droplets of water blown in to the intake manifold and in to the combustion chamber. I guess maybe a leaf blower/some kind of forced air to push any moisture out and let it sit for a couple days?

While we are on the topic of intercoolers, any of you have an aftermarket intercooler? Or is the stock suffice?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
just keep in mind
anytime you mess with the CCV you run the risk of causing oil leaks at the seals

you will go from a positive crank case vent to neutral or even risk pressurizing the crank case if done wrong
Yea, that's my deficiency I guess, I really don't know the function of the positive crank case ventilation. What seals can I potentially dry out (in the turbo? I am guessing you don't have one of these kits? Is it common do you know?

Thanks again
 

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It landed me a wet bellhousing and blowing blue smoke when mine got plugged. I am currently looking into a closed system with a catch can.
 

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Yea, that's my deficiency I guess, I really don't know the function of the positive crank case ventilation. What seals can I potentially dry out (in the turbo? I am guessing you don't have one of these kits? Is it common do you know?

Thanks again
dry seals aren't the issue its having crank case pressure it will blow oil out of the seals in the motor rear main etc

I actually have a Racor CCV catch can ready to go on and just ties in to the OEM routing
so it retains the positive flow from the intake drawing the fumes in
 

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Contaminated Intercooler? Was looking at buying the BD Crank Case Vent Filte...

It landed me a wet bellhousing and blowing blue smoke when mine got plugged. I am currently looking into a closed system with a catch can.
You can have the one I made bud. I took it off my truck when I found a super cheap heated Raycor. It even has a see thru end cap for easy inspection. LOL
Auto part

Product Automotive tire Auto part Wheel Metal

Technology Auto part Electronic device Cylinder

I had it mounted on the frame and kept from freezing by tracing it with the coolant line for my coolant filter but you won't have that problem down there. LOL


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
dry seals aren't the issue its having crank case pressure it will blow oil out of the seals in the motor rear main etc

I actually have a Racor CCV catch can ready to go on and just ties in to the OEM routing
so it retains the positive flow from the intake drawing the fumes in

Zmann, which Racor CCV catch can are you using? Do you need any other parts? Don't suppose you have any pics or a parts list at least?

Sorry to do this to you but your set up sounds like a less risky (and a cheaper) way of not having oil leaks while no longer having oily pipes/intercooler.

Thanks
 

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Re: Contaminated Intercooler? Was looking at buying the BD Crank Case Vent Filte...

You can have the one I made bud. I took it off my truck when I found a super cheap heated Raycor. It even has a see thru end cap for easy inspection. LOL
View attachment 93730
View attachment 93738
View attachment 93746
I had it mounted on the frame and kept from freezing by tracing it with the coolant line for my coolant filter but you won't have that problem down there. LOL


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Damnit Jim!! That's a nice piece Rod, I just ordered a Mishimoto catch can knockoff off eBay on Friday! :doh: However, if it doesn't work out and the offer is still on the table... I only paid $21 for it so if it doesn't work I guess I can just make a fancy sippy cup out of the eBay knockoff for my beer!! LOL

Question though... been thinking about about if it makes a big difference in the mounting location of the catch can? I mean with a closed loop system, how far away can you mount the can without having issues? With it mounted on your frame you never had any scavenging issues?
 

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Contaminated Intercooler? Was looking at buying the BD Crank Case Vent Filte...

A number of guys I know that just dump their vents back behind the cab have no issues with 3/4" hose and that's atmospheric pressure not the slight vacuum that a closed system will have so I had no issues at all. I used 3/4" hoses and I had it mounted right where the frame starts to go horizontal. Hey I'll even throw in a couple spare stainless steel kitchen scrubbers. LOL


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Zmann, which Racor CCV catch can are you using? Do you need any other parts? Don't suppose you have any pics or a parts list at least?

Sorry to do this to you but your set up sounds like a less risky (and a cheaper) way of not having oil leaks while no longer having oily pipes/intercooler.

Thanks
I think mine is the Racor 4500 model
it's not cheap ( Ask Merc) but if you can get a good deal like I did it's worthwhile
otherwise the DIY kind like in Terms pic should be fine


 

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No sir, the Racor system is not cheap.... quality... yes. Looked into it, best keep checking ebay or the classifieds to pick one of those up.
 

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Plus if your in real cold climates like me you can get an optional electrically heated cover for the Raycor to protect it from icing up.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Is there a fitting/adapter that I can buy so that it can feed back in to the intake? Since everyone is making their own, does anyone have an available parts list?

Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Holy crap your right, they are expensive! At that price, I might as well buy the BD Diesel kit.

Are there any alternatives? Can I get away with a cheaper filter?

Thanks again.
 

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Yeah we had a conversation on the ORG about this. Someone had just installed the BD piece and was not happy with it.
 

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Weatherlite, I guess my only question for you is how would you go about getting the intercooler dry after soaking the inside with warm water and detergent?
My plan is letting it sit outside in direct sunlight on a warm day with some nylons over the tubes to prevent anything from getting in there. orient it so any residual water will drain towards one of the holes and I imagine it will be quite dry after a full day of that.
 
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