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Banned
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Discussion Starter #1
I saw a while back to where some one did tests
on cold air intakes for cfm and particals size that
was held back. Does anyone know of this and if
so where can i find it? Does a better flowing cold
air kit help with egts? I have the aem brute force
dry filter. I am also running a 38r, 250/200, 4" exhaust.
I dont want to have to keep buying filters, to me
that can get expensive over the lifetime i keep my
truck 20 years down the road.
 

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299 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
now that i am more awake, I also have the ww2.
What is happening is my filter
minder is getting pulled in that is telling me that the
filter i have on is causing a resitriction. Its not getting
pulled in but halfway. Would a better filter with less
restriction lower egt and the black smoke coming out
of tail pipe, or would it not make that much of a
difference with only that much of restriction i have now.
 

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1,138 Posts
I have never had mine get sucked in that far. But if you are getting black smoke then it does sound like you need more air.
 

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299 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
i found something that might interest you guys.
It seems to me that the ability of an air filter to protect your engine should be the top criteria for selecting an air filter and the "Dirt Filtering Efficiency" of an air filter is given by...

"Dirt Filtering Efficiency"={"Dirt Holding Capacity"}/{"Dirt Holding Capacity"+"Dirt Passed"}

...and if you multiply this result by 100 it gives the percentage of the dirt in the incoming air stream that's stopped by the air filter so that it doesn't enter your engine.

For an ISO-5011 test the measurement of "Dirt Holding Capacity" and "Dirt Passed" is done by establishing a 628 CFM airflow through an initially clean air filter and then introducing into the airflow stream a controlled amount of "standardized dust" at a controlled dust feed rate of 17.58 grams/min. The "standardized dust" meets an ISO-12103 standard which has a specified distribution of particle diameters ranging from less than 0.5 microns to 150 microns and the peak of the particle distribution curve is at a 60 micron particle diameter.

As the filter does its job of filtering out the dust that's been introduced into the airflow stream the filter becomes progressively more restricted and the suction is increased so as to maintain a constant 628 CFM airflow through an increasingly dirtier filter. When the inches H2O restriction increases to 10 inches H2O above the initial restriction for a clean filter at a 628 CFM airflow the test is terminated and the results are tabulated. The "Dirt Passed" is collected with a downstream sub-micron HEPA filter and then weighed and the "Dirt Holding Capacity" is determined by weighing the clean and dirty filter under identical conditions of ambient pressure, temperature, and relative humidity.

For the stock FA-1750 filter the "Dirt Filtering Efficiency"={542.0}/{1.31+542.0}=0.9976=99.76% but this means that 0.24% of the ingested dirt still passes through the filter and as the miles accumulate this adds up to a lot of dirt going into your engine especially if you drive in dusty conditions!

The Donaldson Power Core Ultra Web technology blue media used in the AIS FA-1757 element has a "Dirt Filtering Efficiency" of 99.97% which means that only 0.03% of the ingested dirt passes through that filter and this means the stock FA-1750 filter passes a factor of x8 more dirt than the AIS FA-1757 does!

So what's the "Dirt Filtering Efficiency" of a WIX 46637 or any of it's crossed-referenced "so-called" equivalents such as the Baldwin PA2818 or the Donaldson B085011? Well the only information I've been able to find is from the Donaldson website which states that "Donaldson’s DuraLite Air Cleaners" which includes the Donaldson B085011 are rated for... "Gas and diesel engines in light to medium dust conditions".

So the Donaldson B085011 filter doesn't seem to be a good choice for the dusty conditions that many trucks encounter! Also based on the price difference the WIX/NAPA 6637 versions of the Donaldson B085011 might not be of equal quality or perhaps by now they're just like most other commodities and all made at the same factory in China?

A dry paper element filters on a "go or no go" basis where dirt particles that are larger than the "openings" in the filter media are trapped while particles that are smaller than the openings can pass right through. For a treated or impregnated paper element with the same size "openings" in the filter media many of the smaller diameter particles stick to the surface and don't pass through the element resulting in improved "Dirt Filtering Efficiency" of "invisible" particulate matter with very small micron diameters. Since the surface of the stock FA-1750 element has a kind of "waxy" feel and the 6637 seems to employ a plain dry paper element I doubt the 6637 filters any better than the stock element does and perhaps not even as well!

In case anyone's curious as to why a "628 CFM airflow" is used it's because the ISO-5011 test standard includes a formula for the required testing CFM that depends on engine displacement and on whether or not it has a turbo and for any 7.3L engine with a turbo a "628 CFM airflow" is required for the dirt filtration testing.

Some filter vendors have been known to test at a CFM that's lower than the ISO-5011 test standard CFM and since a larger percentage of dirt gets filtered out at a lower CFM this allows claims of higher "Dirt Filtering Efficiency"! Also some filter vendors test with "coarse dust" which only includes particles ranging in size from 5.5 microns to 176 microns as opposed to the ISO-5011 test standard which includes particle diameters ranging from less than 0.5 microns to 150 microns.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think the filter is holding back the 38r flow rate.
my exhaust temps are holding real good at 900
to 1k in temps pre turbo towing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
here is some more info
Since I installed my 38R, my filter minder trips when I get on it. There are two possibilities:
I still have the "weaker" filter minder that I've heard about.
My modified Motorcraft AIS (Donaldson) isn't up to the task.
While scouring the net for CFM data on touted filter systems, this is what I've found so far (if it is all to be believed):
Stock CFM = 277
Napa 6637 CFM = 425
AFE Stage 2 CFM = 582
Motorcraft AIS CFM = 775
AirAid Stage 2 CFM (oiled) = 820
7.3L theoretical MAX CFM = 850 CFM


I'm looking for:
Something that doesn't trip the Filter Minder.
As quiet as I can get, understanding it doesn't get as good as the AIS.
Cold intake.
Good cleaning.
The 6637 is out of the question because it fails at everything on the list... compared to what I'm used to. I've heard them.

Please feel free to poke holes at the numbers I acquired if you know better. If you're beast is using the Filter Minder (whine-free) and and more ponies than I am, what are you using? If you think my Filter Minder is failing miserably, chime in.
 

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the stryker god
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Swamps made 932 horse through a single 6637. And they do filter exceptionally well. Check out r2c competition filters if you want something bettet
 

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Terminator Nation
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One thing about air filter flow specs is you have to be sure they all use the same pressure drop across the filter. If not, then its apples and oranges.

I once dyno'ed with a Donaldson B085011 filter over three runs and then with an AFE-1 over three runs. Same day, same dyno.

Guess which filter setup made about 3-5hp more across the powerband in my 400hp truck.

A win for the Donaldson....:D

And as far as dust is concerned, there's been a lot of posts saying there was dust in the intake using a oiled filter and no dust after switching to a 6637 type filter. Never have read a post stating the opposite was true.
 

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dry is always better.
 

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it is annoying when people call these filter kits 'cold air' as they usually involve removing the factory cold air system
I dont recall seeing a vehicle without a factory cold air system since the 80s
 

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Village Idiot
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Swamps also has a great video of a 6637 sucking the intake pipe flat.
 

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So bottom line? clean air filter of good quality is just as good as a Cold Air System??

one thing i wonder is what would the difference be when the car is actually moving down the road vs the fan blowing air in. at speed the amount of air coming in could be more..

how about a old style hood scoop?? Ram air was a big deal in teh 70's.. man i miss them days.
 

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most of the air coming in is through the radiator, so heated to 180°
which is why every vehicle since the 80s has a cold air intake that draws air from in front of the rad
you need a high pressure air source to have ram air, the top of the hood is not a great place for that, the cowl can be, the nose of the vehicle is pretty much the best unless you are moving the scoop way up about roof level
pretty much boils down to the factory ideas are pretty good in this regard

that being said I have an open element 6637 variant out of laziness. to improve it you would have to remove the battery that is blocking the airflow path
 
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