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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My clutch started by not coming all the way back out, then the truck wouldn't hardly want to go into gear so I changed my slave and master cylinder but not I can't figure out how to get my clutch pressure back. I thought I bled the line but not sure.
 

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OBS? Check the bushing on the eyelet of the pushrod. Probably shot; there are alternatives. Also adjust the position of the lever (remove it from the shaft and re-"clock" it on the splines) to remove the lag where it pushes the pushrod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The eyelet on the pushrod from the master cylinder is still good, its brand new. I will look at it tonight and adjust it if need be but that still doesnt explain why it wont build pressure in the pedal
 

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What do you mean by "won't build pressure"? Is the pedal effort suddenly less than it was before?

Does the pedal at least return all the way now?

It's not the eyelet itself to check, it's the plastic bushing inside the eyelet, that the "knob" on the arm rides in. When that wears and starts to come apart, clutch performance starts to suck. Eventually the knob pops out of the eyelet, the pedal falls to the floor with no return, and there's no clutch action at all. Replacement of the bushing is futile; I've had them last as little as a week. At that point, there are two pretty simple permanent upgrade/fix options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, I got a new eyelet with the new master cylinder. The plastic fitting on the cab side of the Master Cylinder pushrod that goes inside the eyelet is brand new.

The clutch has no pressure and will not come back up at all now. There is no pressure on the clutch other than the spring in there.
 

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So the pedal just drops to the floor and you have to pull it up? If so, do it again, but leave the pedal at the floor and crawl down and look at the pushrod and the part that interfaces with it. Make sure that's all still connected.

Have you tried starting the truck?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The Pedal just dropped to the floor.
I found the problem, the arm to come down that connects with the master cylinder pushrod was too far back. It had moved over time so I had to take that off and put it back on the truck shifts like a dream now.

I could freely start the truck because the guy before me crossed the safety switch on the clutch. That has also been replaced now and Now I need to push the clutch to start the truck.
Thanks for all the help guys
 

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^^^^ Yup, the "clock" position of that arm on the cross-shaft can make all the difference. Ford actually specs that you REPLACE that arm EVERY time you work on the hydraulics :eek:. All you really have to do is rotate it a bit and make sure that nut on the splined shaft is good and tight.

You might wanna replace that plastic bushing on the eyelet with either the Heim joint, or do the drill stop collar trick, to keep that firm feel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ya I was surprised to see that thats all it was... So now I have a used slave and master cylinder that are both in good shape for sale.
 
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