[Dave Whitmer]

I heard this elswhere but dismissed it as urban legend, but then time came for new brakes and Shazam! 2 MPG! My brakes were dragging.

Apparently these sintered metallic brakes we use corrode on the ends and swell as they do so. Once they swell beyond the normal clearance, they drag. MPG and other performace is degraded. And the brakes get hot.

A little file work will bring the pad ends back where they belong, I am told.

 

[TRX370r]

did you do just a pad change? If so which ones?

 

[Dave Whitmer]

I was doing the pad change anyway. My OEM pads were shot.

Under normal circumstances a little grinder work obviates the need to change pads.

 

[TRX370r]

My oem's are shot as well. Rotor's still look good, what is the best pads you have found for oem rotors?

 

[Dave Whitmer]

I didn’t use OEM rotors. Mine were shot.

I used the Performance Friction pads and rotors.

 

[Bushwakd]

How do you like the PF rotors and pads?

 

[Dave Whitmer]

Very smooth. They don't squeal in humid weather. Haven't really challenged them though.

 

[scarlet_nape]

I just put on some Hawk pads and am very happy with them. Rotors were fine, so I just had them turned.

 

[Dave Whitmer]

What I'm alerting everyone to is that otherwise A-OK brakes might be dragging on the edges. I don't give a rip what brand of brake pads you use.

Jack up you front wheels and give them a spin. They should spin freely. If they drag to a stop in less than five revolutions, pull the pads and file off the swelled edges some.

It is worth 2 MPG and will make your pads and rotors last longer.

 

[gregrob]

Thanks for the info Dave. I'm gonna check.

 

[Cat_Rebel]

Just had my front calipers replaced because they were stuck. Makes a big diffrence. When your coming up to a stop sign you can just coast up to it. Before when you let off, it would just slow right down. Normal driving seems more responsive. Also filed the pads while they were off too. I agree that bad brakes can rob MPG.

 

[Caballo Diablo]

read this a while back and am deciding to give it a try....so you're saying just file the edges of the pads back a little and they are good to go?

 

[Dave Whitmer]

Check 'em first. If they don't drag, leave them alone.

If they drag, remove the pads and dress the edges, and check for normal wear. After that, they should not drag.

 

[Diezel Dawg]

im gonna check this out when i get home!

 

[Caballo Diablo]

Check 'em first. If they don't drag, leave them alone.

If they drag, remove the pads and dress the edges, and check for normal wear. After that, they should not drag.

ok appreciate it

 

[99F250Smitty]

Thanks for the info Dave!! I looked into mine over the weekend and got it apart my slide pins were stuck like you wouldn't believe. I got new ones, cleaned out the holes in the brackets, greased it up, rotors turned and new pads and boy does she stop smooth for now. I hope this increases my mileage some. Thanks again.

 

[Dave Whitmer]

Take you truck out on the raod, run 'er up to 60 MPH and kick it into neutral. See how well she coasts. Even with an open bed and 4x4, you should be able to coast a quarter-mile.

 

[Boats313]

Thank you Dave. I checked mine today, one side was so bad that I couldn't turn it by hand with the wheel off! I dressed the pads and the rotors for now. When I get more time I'm going to get the rotors turned and new pads. I'm going to check the back as well. What a difference it can make.

 

[Dave Whitmer]

Glad to help, Boats.

Sometimes its the simplest things.

 

[Charles]

Don't forget to ensure the actual Unitized bearing assembly hasn't crapped the bed either...