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CFM Y pipe

8.3K views 47 replies 23 participants last post by  smokinstroker  
#1 ·
#25 ·
Obviously "the Charles" has spoken out of his "inaccurate information hole" and as such posted an invalid epinion:rolleyes:

and that goes for everybody else that agreed with him without taking the time to investigate the product being discussed.

IDE's:pointlaugh:

:whs:

This kit would've made life so much easier in my 38r swap......

Its a two piece design for a reason. My thinking was to reduce heat transfer :shrug:

Cowboy Steve
 
#6 ·
Here's my question...

Does it literally separate the two? If so, it's the dumbest pos I've ever seen. For starters, what is the total effected surface area between the two ducts? 4 square inches? With no fins, nothing. The amount of heat that's going to travel through, and actually make it's way into the intake air is not worth anyone's time in the first place....

Secondly, and more importantly...

The BIGGEST thing the stock upper intake manifold does is connect the inlet side to the compressor outlet, which is BOLTED to the engine via the turbo pedestal. This keeps the intake side from lifting off the lower manifolds under boost and popping out of the silicone couplers. JUST like the hypermax or similar intakes love to do. By having it all tied together it CANNOT lift and pop out of the boots because it's mechanically tied to the engine.

By separating them like that, you gain NOTHING and lose EVERYTHING. I'm sure they will tell you the problem is the inferior stock couplers once that starts happening.... Yet I have run over 90lbs of boost on the same stock couplers that have been on my engine since it was made in 1999.

If they still tied them together to stop this, what was the point again? According to them?

(This is complete bs. The ability of the tube wall to put heat into that air is not worth anyone's time)

IMO of course.
 
#8 ·
LOL. I wondered how long it would be before Chuck jumped on this. I think if I was gonna do something like that I would take two stock ones and just cut them apart making two peices, but I agree with Charles. The whole thing is made liek that for a reason, and I don,t think you would see much of a drop in temps over the stock configuration.


Dan
 
#9 ·
Obviously "the Charles" has spoken out of his "inaccurate information hole" and as such posted an invalid epinion:rolleyes:

and that goes for everybody else that agreed with him without taking the time to investigate the product being discussed.

IDE's:pointlaugh:
 
#13 ·
There reason I posted this was because it was a nice piece of work. Now still researching the benefits of this design.
 
#19 ·
The Hypermax intakes have a bracket that bolts to the rear of it and to the front driverside pedistal bolt, they are a bit tricky to get on as well.

I might go remove the upper bolt from said bracket and see if it will blow off at ~40psi. Of coarse I may want to remove my $1000 fiberglass hood also, but then I would have to walk up and down the road to find the "Y" pipe :doh:.

-Michael
 
#22 ·
Well I don't even give the cold air from the cooler have a chance at heating back up myself..... I never even send it to the cooler in the first place, I just dump the super-heated mess straight in the engine right out of the compressor.

That's how dumb I am when it comes to this.

And it appears that I'm the only one that's ever seen crushed lower intake manifold inlets from trying to get clamps tight enough to hold the freakin Y in there that keeps popping out.

So nevermind about any of it. Disregard my previous.
 
#23 ·
The BIGGEST thing the stock upper intake manifold does is connect the inlet side to the compressor outlet, which is BOLTED to the engine via the turbo pedestal. This keeps the intake side from lifting off the lower manifolds under boost and popping out of the silicone couplers. JUST like the hypermax or similar intakes love to do. By having it all tied together it CANNOT lift and pop out of the boots because it's mechanically tied to the engine.
I'd like to know if this is really a problem.
Now with my motor apart, I see how mangled my 3" intakes are. But my homemade 'Y' never come off and it has nothing special as far as clamps goes. Pushed past 65 psi many times and have blown every other boot off, but never the 'Y'.
I plan to re-inforce the 3" holes just because. That 'Y' is a real pain to get on and off by hand, I can't imagine it going anywhere with the clamps on.
???
 
#26 ·
What is the expected drop to IAT at WOT on most trucks?

What is the expected increase to RWHP on most trucks?

What is the expected decrease to EGT on most trucks?

And what is the expected CFM flow through this part on most trucks?


It seems we already have an answer for the expected decrease to the owners bank account. Just looking for some concrete numbers for the actual performance they can expect for the money payed.



:shrug:
 
#36 ·
I would have been interested in that hot side at one point.

Tom
 
#44 ·
Buy the whole setup and toss the compressor side on the shelf.


You got money...You want bling...What's the problem? :poke: