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COMPUTER BLUE
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Discussion Starter #1
After taking a look at some of the kits I cant seem to justify the $ to buy the whole kit. A lot of people have talked about just taking a piece of heater hose and running it down to the frame.

My only problem is when I go into the city I do not want the "trucks on fire look"

I have one of these small jaz overflow tanks. I was going to run a piece of heater hose down the fire wall to the frame and run the heater hose into a barbed fitting that would be taped into the side of the JAZ overflow tank. Would anyone see any problem with it doing that? I would run the tank so it could catch the oil plus not have the "trucks on fire look"

my question is that would there be any problems with running the hose into a canister and if I do run a hose down into the catch can do I need to put a breather on the top of the catch can so it does not build pressure up inside the canister? Also how often would I have to empty as I do not have any idea how much oil would buid up inside over a period of time.

I tried to search but all i found where people running heater hose down. Any help would be appreciated . Ive attached a picture of the canister I plan on using and I would just tap into it to (to connect the heater hose to & also if I had to tap a port to add a breather onto it)

:psn:
 

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The canister would definitely have to be vented or you will cause leakes.
 

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COMPUTER BLUE
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Discussion Starter #4
ok so if i tapped a fitting and put a small breather on the canister you dont see any problem with this not working. Also how much oil do you think would accumulate in there? Would it be just drain it during every oil change sort of deal ?
 

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Edward Scissorhand WanaB
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IMHO I feel the breather would become saturated in oil mist and condensation.
With the oil mist and condensation collecting on the breather it will then get a light coating of fine dust particles and road grit and grime on the outside and will not be able to vent the way it need to and will crate positive crank case pressure. Positive crank case pressure will force oil outward through several seals.

As far as how much oil and condensation will you recover it all depends on oil change intervals and oil brands. You will probably recover between 4-8 tablespoons or more or less. All powerstrokes are different.
I have ran a PVC canister that vented the CC gasses to the canister and then plumbed it back to the intake. By doing this the visible smoke is not there and you can catch the oil residue and dispose of it as needed.
 

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I ran 3' of hose down to the frame. No oil coming from the hose. Once in a great while you get a wiff of the crankcase oil fumes. On the Internationals they used to run just a draft tube. Been this way for about 5 years now.
 

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What are you trying to accomplish by doing the CCV?

I had a CCV reroute on mine, and removed it a few months later.

Pros:
  • None.
(Some place boost leak blame on CCV oil. I'm not convinced. I had no leaks. And anyway, I have silicone boots now. They dont leak oil or boost.)

Cons:
  • Catch can must be emptied OR you have the "truck on fire" look, as you described.
  • Wont pass SMOG is some states.
  • Lets me honest. Its not good for the environment, and you don't need to be an environmental nut job to see that.
  • You just paid for all that.
 

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COMPUTER BLUE
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Discussion Starter #8
A lot of the reason is honestly because I am running a turbo with a 4 inch inlet and can not find a silicone intake hose that already has the nipple on it. I bounty my turbo used and it did not have the 4 inch intake. Banks and various vendors want 175+ for the short piece of hose. Doing the ccv reroute would prevent me from having to buy that tube. And I already have all of the parts laying around so I would not be buying anything extra.

As far as the smoke look goes that was the point of running it into a canister. I know all of the big rigs ( at least 60 series detroits in my buddies trucks) all just have it routed to the ground.

Just want to try something a little different
 

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A lot of the reason is honestly because I am running a turbo with a 4 inch inlet and can not find a silicone intake hose that already has the nipple on it. I bounty my turbo used and it did not have the 4 inch intake. Banks and various vendors want 175+ for the short piece of hose. Doing the ccv reroute would prevent me from having to buy that tube. And I already have all of the parts laying around so I would not be buying anything extra.

As far as the smoke look goes that was the point of running it into a canister. I know all of the big rigs ( at least 60 series detroits in my buddies trucks) all just have it routed to the ground.

Just want to try something a little different
Have you called Clay at Riffraff?

You at least have a reason to do it..
 
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