[CSIPSD]

I need to get a ball park Idea what I am looking at...

1. Pistons...
2. Rods
3. Studs while its out
4. full bearing kit? Might as well make it new???
5. what about a lpop? might as well get a new one???
6. Valves? I am not looking to go big or expesive, was quite happy power wise, so do I need to do anything to the valves?

What else?

 

[CooterBrown]

1. daddy's checkbook

 

[gregrob]

1) Full Rebuild kit, from BWD. Includes pistons, lpop, seals, rod/main bearings.
$1200

2) H11's from ***
$725

3) BWD valvesprings. Clicky
Comp 910's might be cheaper

4) Valves, not sure on price. I would also go with stock pushrods.

5) Cost to get your forged rods magnafluxed and shotpeened. I would do this at a minimum, it would suck to build another engine using a compromised rod.

That should get you started. I'm by no means an expert, just saying what I would do, and plan to.

 

[69W900A]

stock valves are ok, just put good springs in it. Mahle pistons are pretty standard, good quality and easy to source. Coat them if you feel like it, otherwise run them naked.

If you only want 400 +/- then find a decent set of OEM forged rods, and if you are worried about it have them shot peened.

I'd put a girdle on it. The blocks are very strong so long as the thrust load from crank walk is kept to minimum. Most guys think they are not necessary, and they are right. But they sure help avoid blocks splitting and broken cranks and the machine work on the cap to saddles is not real good and higher engine output only makes it worse.

Put a melling lpop in it. They aren't that expensive and if you have to have the engine that far apart you might as well put one in.

Have the decks checked for flatness and have them surfaced if necessary. Have the block line bored, with the studs and girdle installed if you use one, or whatever fastener you intend to run in the engine.

 

[THEDIESELMAN]

I need to get a ball park Idea what I am looking at...

1. Pistons...
2. Rods
3. Studs while its out
4. full bearing kit? Might as well make it new???
5. what about a lpop? might as well get a new one???
6. Valves? I am not looking to go big or expesive, was quite happy power wise, so do I need to do anything to the valves?

What else?

That is the same stuff I will be putting in mine when I pull it for a build. The only other thing I would do if you have time is maybe a mild P and P.

 

[DarkShadowDiesel]

I need to get a ball park Idea what I am looking at...

1. Pistons...
2. Rods
3. Studs while its out
4. full bearing kit? Might as well make it new???
5. what about a lpop? might as well get a new one???
6. Valves? I am not looking to go big or expesive, was quite happy power wise, so do I need to do anything to the valves?

What else?

I'd get the rebuild kit
forged rods: magnafluxed, peened, cryo'd (if you like)
H11's, melling LPOP, fluidampr
BWD valves, and pushrods - don't want to bend a stocker if you have stronger valve springs.
girdle - like 69W900A and many have said the V8's have main walk, better safe than sorry
anything else easier to do with the motor out that you may have intended on doing, i.e. ceramic coating exhaust parts, HPOP(sounds like you're getting the CA), fuel system, etc.
just what i'd do.

 

[gregrob]

I'd get the rebuild kit
forged rods: magnafluxed, peened, cryo'd (if you like)
H11's, melling LPOP, fluidampr
BWD valves, and pushrods - don't want to bend a stocker if you have stronger valve springs.
girdle - like 69W900A and many have said the V8's have main walk, better safe than sorry
anything else easier to do with the motor out that you may have intended on doing, i.e. ceramic coating exhaust parts, HPOP(sounds like you're getting the CA), fuel system, etc.
just what i'd do.

Bent stockers are easy to replace, I'd rather have the "weak link" of a bent pushrod than to have indestructable pushrods and snap a connecting rod.
JMO though.
Stockers are cheaper by a long shot too

 

[hotwheels]

Mahle pistons/rings
all main/rod/cam bearings
gasket kit
I'd be willing to bet your exhaust valves are worn on the stems so at least new exhaust valves and probably bronze sleves in the guides
valve springs and possibly retainers
rods
main studs
don't waste your money on a girdle. They don't really help for what they are supposed to anyway. You need to hold the top of the caps in place where the sit at the block not the bottoms. A girdle won't do that.
might as well do the new LPOP
you'll need to piece together several of the o-rings being they don't come in the gasket kit. The HPO rail o-rings and the main end plugs are some I'd get along with the ones that go on the oil check ball plug on the top front of the block and turbo pedistal o-rings.
Head studs from DI

I know IH has a complete overhaul kit that comes with the pistons/bearings/gaskets etc. Seems as I recall it was right around $1K.

 

[hotwheels]

Bent stockers are easy to replace, I'd rather have the "weak link" of a bent pushrod than to have indestructable pushrods and snap a connecting rod.
JMO though.
Stockers are cheaper by a long shot too

How in the hell is a stronger pushrod going to snap a connecting rod???????

 

[69W900A]

Really a girdle doesn't do what it's supposed too? Why then does ever serious racer who runs V8's use them? If I didn't have a girdle on my race car the crank wouldn't make it though the burn out.

The girdle is worth the money. So is good machine work. Buy cheap pushrods, valve cover gaskets, but spend the money on good machine work. The amount of power and life that engine will see is directly related to the foundation, which is the machine work all the parts get bolted into.

 

[gregrob]

How in the hell is a stronger pushrod going to snap a connecting rod???????

I didn't say it would.

 

[hotwheels]

Really a girdle doesn't do what it's supposed too? Why then does ever serious racer who runs V8's use them? If I didn't have a girdle on my race car the crank wouldn't make it though the burn out.

The girdle is worth the money. So is good machine work. Buy cheap pushrods, valve cover gaskets, but spend the money on good machine work. The amount of power and life that engine will see is directly related to the foundation, which is the machine work all the parts get bolted into.

Last I checked we are talking about POWERSTROKES here. NOT your racecar. What I said has nothing to do with your or anyone elses race car V8. Have you looked at the girdles for the 7.3s? I don't like the way they bolt up to the center studs and cover the outer ones. You are supposed to torque the inner then the outer. You either have to torque the outer then the inner or torque the inner, then the outer, then take the inners back off install the girdle and retorque the inners again. Also they hold the tips of the caps not the top where they meet the block. Who cares what the tip is doing if they are walking all over the block? IMHO if you want to do it right have the main stud holes machined for dowl pins so the top of the caps can't walk and forget the girdle or if it makes you sleep better at night spend the extra grand and put one in. I find it interesting how the only place you hear that you need them is from the guys that sell them. However the guys that don't sell them including the fastest PSD out there don't seem to think you need them.

Greg it sounded like you were implying that.

 

[gregrob]

This is the ONLY warning, this thread needs to be kept technical and anything off topic will be deleted.

Joe asked for help with a parts list, let's give it to him, not a bunch of BS arguing and bickering.

You're doing pretty good Geoff, you've stated your opinion, I've stated mine, and Patrick has stated his. Let's keep the good stuff going and leave the BS at home.

 

[69W900A]

A V8 is a V8. The TQ sequence is for a stock block. After the correct machine work is done you can TQ then anyway you like so long as you take them down evenly. 2 of the 3 fastest 7.3's USE girdles, the other one had a broken block, hmmmm.

You can dowl the caps if you like and it will help. Extra machine work involved there. I'd also be careful how the machine work was done and where the material was taken out at. It is very easy to create MORE places for stress risers for cracks to propagate from.

Either way, whether you run a girdle, dowls, or nothing, good machine work is worth more than the parts you put in the engine since all those parts rely on the machine work.

 

[CSIPSD]

Did I mention I have somewhat of a budget???

 

[powerstrokin247]

Did I mention I have somewhat of a budget???

Thats the first thing i thought.

Cant hide money right?

 

[RockinJW]

Make sure to check the heads over REALLY good. I had three miniscule cracks between a couple of the intake and exhaust valve ports. They were teeny, you could barely see them, but they were there.

Go with the mahle pistons too. And I didn't do any bottem end work with my motor. I wish I could've but $2300 for the rods kind of dented my checkbook enough that I couldn't afford the girdle.

 

[69W900A]

Since a 100% completely stock 7.3 or T444E has main cap to saddle walk issues such that metal transfer occurs a girdle is worth the money on a modified engine. I wouldn't take one apart just to put the girdle on, but if you already have it apart then go for it.

Just keep keep Geoff happy, I had a race truck with a diesel V8 in it. I had major issues with keeping the main caps from walking on the block and has serious corrosion between the two. Put a girdle on it and had no further issues. I had to line bore it so many times that the crank centerline was beginning to become an issue. After the girdle the bottom end never had any more machine work done to it. Sold the truck and it was still running.

There are many ways to build stuff. I prefer to over build stuff and ensure that it'll hold together. Girdles work, that is why outside of the 7.3 world they are so widely used. I've never claimed to know anything, I'm just making all this up as I go - take it for what it's worth.

 

[Aljay]

Hey my 3406 has a girdle. LOL oke:

 

[jtharvey]

I know this is small stuff, but if I'd be putting a new water pump and oil cooler on as well.