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Discussion Starter #1
ANyone else heard that 4r100 bypass filters are not good for the trans cause it builds to much pressure? Reason asking is I installed a Diesel SIte bypass filter for my tranny and I got the pressure guage for it as soon as I installed it and drove around the block the guage was in the red prety much saying I needed to change the filter So I did a fluid change and also changed the filter in the Pan and still got the same thing. Kinda thinkin I should take it off. Any ideas?:confused:
 

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I would call Bob at Dieselsite and ask him about this.

It sounds like you might have either a plumbing problem or the tranny is not warmed up all the way and the fluid is being recirculated.

Either way, I am sure he can talk you through figuring out what is going on.
 

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It's unfortunately not that easy of an explanation.

For starters, the housing and filter is built for 3/4" cooler lines, hence the reducer bushings, so obviously it's made to handle flow far exceeding what our pumps are putting out. IOWs, the filter is NOT in any way a restriction.

The bypass works by way of differential pressures. If the inlet pressure is 25 psi more than the outlet, the bypass opens. The guage measures line pressure. The guage is labeled based on average line pressures. If your in the green when warm on a clean filter, you change the filter when in the red.

If your in the red on a clean filter, the bypass is still in the same position (closed), so either you have the filter plumbed in backwards or your tuner has your line pressures in the transmission cranked up. That's rough on the pump if so. The fact that it was green when cold, then went into the red tells me the filter is probably plumbed correctly.

Hope that helps.

Bob
 

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Any ideas?:confused:
If that gauge is only measuring cooler line pressure, a restriction anywhere would cause a high reading. I'd check the fluid flow at the filter outlet and again at the cooler outlet.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
or your tuner has your line pressures in the transmission cranked up
I had a edge juice on it before and it was doin the same thing now I have a DP tuner and still the same if I drive for a wile and check it is in the Yellow just a hair under the red. I will put the truck back to stock tomorrow and check it. It has never been in the green on the guage from day one. The spring side is on the side where the line comes from the cooler and the arrow on top of the housing is pointing tword the line going back into the tranny. There was a Black plastic piece connected to the front of the spring is that supposed to be there?
I'd check the fluid flow at the filter outlet and again at the cooler outlet.
How mch is supposed to flow out should I measure a certain amount in a certain amount of time?

I was gona change the bypass filter but it has been that way from the start wouldn't think it would plug from starting the truck up and putting it in gear.

COuld that Bypass tube on the trans have somethin to do with it if it was bad?
 

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TESTING:

Bring the transmission up to temperature. It needs to be at least 100 degrees for this test.
Turn the truck off.
Remove the rear line from the transmission and place it into a bucket or similar container so that you can measure volume of your flow.
Have someone turn the truck on.
At idle (in park), you should measure 32 ounces of fluid in your bucket - in 15 seconds or less. This is an absolute minimum number. A properly working transmission will flow that amount in about 10 seconds or less. You should not see ANY fluid pumping out of the rear transmission port.
TEST RESULTS:

If you have the proper amount of flow, your transmission pump and coolers are working fine. SO, if you are running hot and have the proper flow (with no fluid coming out of the rear transmission port), you most likely have a mechanical problem causing high heat. This could be torque converter slippage or one of many other internal problems. You may have to see a professional at this point to help diagnose the problem.
If you do not have proper flow, OR you have fluid coming out of the transmission rear port, you either have a cooler blockage, OR a faulty cooler bypass valve. Here's how to tell.
Trace the forward transmission line to the front of the truck.
Remove the line from the 1st place it enters a cooler or the radiator (if so equipped).
Now, do the same flow test checking flow at this point.
There are two outcomes.
The first is that you now have enough fluid flow- this means your cooler /coolers are partially blocked. To determine which cooler is plugged you would perform the same flow test through one cooler at a time.
The second outcome will be that you don't have enough flow even with all coolers disconnected. This means you have an internal pump problem.
IMPORTANT! The outcome of this test assumes that you have NO fluid exiting the rear port of the transmission. If you perform a flow test with the coolers disconnected and you get fluid from the rear port on the transmission, your cooler bypass valve is bad.
 

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the arrow on top of the housing is pointing tword the line going back into the tranny.
I'm assuming that arrow indicates flow direction. So if you have it spliced into the rear trans line, it is correct. If spliced into the front trans line, it is incorrect.

How mch is supposed to flow out should I measure a certain amount in a certain amount of time?
A quart in 15 seconds. For those that are interested in knowing what it takes to flow a qt it 15 seconds, here is something you can attach a visual grasp to. If your fluid is 80° and at 45 PSI, slightly more than a quart will flow thru a hole that has been drilled with a 5/64" (and that ain't very big) drill bit.



COuld that Bypass tube on the trans have somethin to do with it if it was bad?
No, a bad bypass valve would make the pressure in the cooler line lower. BTW, stop calling that filter assembly a "bypass" filter. It is a full flow filter with a built in bypass. A lot of filters operate like that including the oil filter on your engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok the external trans filter. Well when I had my tranny rebuilt the guy who did it said they flushed everything but when I changed my internal filter I found 2 bolts from the Valve body layin in the bottom of the pan so who knows if they even flushed everything my temps usually hang around 150 but when I was climbin around up in the hills it got up to 190 but I will check the flow thing. One more question why do the tranny lines go through the bottom of the radiator?
 

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Well when I had my tranny rebuilt
This is not a stock tranny? That changes all kinds of things. The builder could have done something to cause high pump pressures. Bypass all the coolers and test the line pressure with nothing in it and see if you're just chasing an isue that you assumed got there with the addition of the filter. I'm guessing the filter gauge just brought it to light.

Also, "flushing" doesn't work. That only flushes out old fluid. Blockages will not dislodge. If you run the tests above, and find a restriction in a cooler for instance, you replace the cooler.

You cannot assume that because the shop air hose pushed air through the lines that the lines are clear. If the proper VOLUME cannot run through the lines, pressure will increase.

One more question why do the tranny lines go through the bottom of the radiator
Additional cooling.

Bob
 

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i'd def check the flow ,coolers can get blocked or filled with crud,
and if can affect tranny temps. if it does look like the cooler i'd recomend a trucool or v10 cooler (bob also carries these) they do a great job very close to what the old 6.0 coolers could do but at a much lower cost.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I will have to wait for this weekend to check he said he put a transgo shift kit in it and said somethin about an internal cooler or somethin. the trans shifts fine doesn't slip or anything like that but I will still check out the cooler.
Wich one hooks right up the V10 or the 6.0. Is there any way to totally clean the stock one out?
 

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the v10 is a tad smaller both can usually fit right in ,may need a small bushing to drop the line size down
...the v10 is 90% more then enough for most users.
it did danny fine in his orange truck so it holds up to abuse well :poke:
imelmo said:
Just get the V10 cooler. It's larger than the stock 7.3 cooler and is a true direct bolt-on. No different fittings or lines or anything. That's what I had on the orange truck. Can't remember how much temps dropped exactly, but I remember it was significant.
and unless you feel your light duty diesel really is a tractor trailer and want to hitch up to 40k it will do fine for towing.
that said if you have the money a 31 row 6.0 cooler is better.
but the temp diff is not worth 130$ diff in my wallet.
some year trucks may have to tweak a hard tranny line for the 6.0 as well but a simple bend.
 

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As far as I know there are no aftermarket or OEM tranny coolers that fit the 7.3 models that come anywhere close to the cooling capacity of the 6.0 coolers. It simply dwarfs all the other options such as the V-10. Although I do agree that most people woudl do fine with the V-10 cooler but why not install the 6.0 31 if you can.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just gota find one for a good price everyone want an arm and a leg for them gona start checking wrecking yards next week.
 

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You can buy a new 26 row one from Ford for under $300.
 
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