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Discussion Starter #1
ok so i bought this 96 f-350 for 650 bucks missing some parts and i just gathered all the parts and went to install the turbo to find that one of the bolt holes on the block right next to the oil passages on the pedestal is busted clean off!!!! i am really doubting the ol passages will hold a seal if one bolt is missing. i found the piece that was broken off in the center galley but i am not sure if this is cost effective to try and remove the motor to reweld the steel and tap? any other ideas? i really want to use this truck as a tow rig but if this is not relaibly fixable without a new motor she is getting parted out and i will have to find a new truck to tow with....it is just not cost efective for me to throw 4 grand at this truck for a new motor seeing as it is a single cab....


Please help, this is my first powerstroke and i have been excitedly awaiting to hear it run until today......now i am off to drink my sorrows away......:(
 

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OEM Moderator
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I think a few photos would help to get you better advice on this one.
 

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fueled by Colecovision
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ok so i bought this 96 f-350 for 650 bucks missing some parts and i just gathered all the parts and went to install the turbo to find that one of the bolt holes on the block right next to the oil passages on the pedestal is busted clean off!!!! i am really doubting the ol passages will hold a seal if one bolt is missing. i found the piece that was broken off in the center galley but i am not sure if this is cost effective to try and remove the motor to reweld the steel and tap? any other ideas? i really want to use this truck as a tow rig but if this is not relaibly fixable without a new motor she is getting parted out and i will have to find a new truck to tow with....it is just not cost efective for me to throw 4 grand at this truck for a new motor seeing as it is a single cab....


Please help, this is my first powerstroke and i have been excitedly awaiting to hear it run until today......now i am off to drink my sorrows away......:(
we had one like that...

masked off the oil holes, and used epoxy to build up the area around the oil feed/drain area...(but our block in question didn't have any actual damage to any threaded holes)
 

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Little off topic but what's wrong with single cabs? :poke::D
 

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I'm with Tom, need some pictures. Have you tried to drill out the center and back the bolt out with something like an easy out?
 

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I know nothing...
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As far as a fix, we need pics. As far as a new motor, you can buy a running single cab for under a grand on any day that ends in Y.

Don't freak out, you're in the right place to get this resolved. Pull up a chair and a tab, snap some good pics and give the Nation a couple hours, I'm sure somebody has your fix.

Oh... Welcome!!!!
 

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<<< THE GAUGE WHORE...
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Sounds like a job for a easy out... unless its the block that is missing a chunk...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think a few photos would help to get you better advice on this one.
I am out of town right now on work ( middle of BFE Alaska)and am hoping o get back by the weekend(if all goes as planned with the big diesels i am helping to install), i will get pictures then.

Little off topic but what's wrong with single cabs? :poke::D
nothing wrong with it i would just perfer an ext cab or crew cab for road trips or when the wife starts popping out little ones down the road. i was just saying i cant see investing the price of a new block into a truck when i can go find another ex or crew for slightly more than a motor would cost.

sounds to me like the hole boss is what broke off....but like said before WE NEED PICTURES!
you are correct it was not the bolt or the threads that are bad, it is the fact the whole boss on the block the threads were in broke in half and half is now missing.

I am thinking at this point my best option is to clean it up real well and get a stud for it and line the stud up in the half the threads that are left and then weld the bottom half in where the steel is missing and then just use a nut on the top of the stud to hold the turbo. i think this will be strong enough to hold the seal for the oil passages as long as i preheat the block for welding and gradually bring the temp back down vs letting it cool fast.

what do you guys think? pictures will come soon.....

PS thanks for all the input:bowfast::bowfast:
 

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I assume the piece that broke off is cast iron? correct?, find someone who has welded cast and let them try it. jmo
 

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As long as it is flat on the major od register for the o-rings I don't see a problem. It could be drilled deeper down toward the bellhousing and tapped to use a longer bolt. Pics would help, but that area of the block is fairly deep, so plenty of material to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I assume the piece that broke off is cast iron? correct?, find someone who has welded cast and let them try it. jmo
that is essentially the plan because i have welded cast before

As long as it is flat on the major od register for the o-rings I don't see a problem. It could be drilled deeper down toward the bellhousing and tapped to use a longer bolt. Pics would help, but that area of the block is fairly deep, so plenty of material to work with.
that is what i was thinking about keeping the o rings sealed.

drilling deeper is a interesting idea, maybe i will drill deeper and get a longer stud and still weld it, that should be over done right?
 

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Instead of welding the stud, can you just clean it real well and JBWeld a stud in there? Might be a little easier and less risk of frying any electronics?

Just a thought from a non-welder.

Rusty
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Instead of welding the stud, can you just clean it real well and JBWeld a stud in there? Might be a little easier and less risk of frying any electronics?

Just a thought from a non-welder.

Rusty
i guess i could do it that way but i feel more confident in my welding ability than i have in JB weld holding with the heating and cooling that that section of the motor will see and the vibration. i have never had good experience with JB weld in areas that required a certain measure of elasticity.

I also dont want to chance of loosing the stud and ruining a turbo, maybe instead of mig i will borrow my neibors tig and do that, only problem there is i have never tiged cast before where as i have miged cast before on several occasions with good results in much more abusive applications.
 

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i guess i could do it that way but i feel more confident in my welding ability than i have in JB weld holding with the heating and cooling that that section of the motor will see and the vibration. i have never had good experience with JB weld in areas that required a certain measure of elasticity.

I also dont want to chance of loosing the stud and ruining a turbo, maybe instead of mig i will borrow my neibors tig and do that, only problem there is i have never tiged cast before where as i have miged cast before on several occasions with good results in much more abusive applications.
sounds like your the man for the job, I've never welded cast- sounds scary to me but I've heard of good results, usually with a stick welder tho'
 

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ive migged and stick welded cast, its about the same but can get hairy if you dont pay that much attention and dive into it, id just mig it and see where it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I am out of town right now on work ( middle of BFE Alaska)and am hoping o get back by the weekend(if all goes as planned with the big diesels i am helping to install), i will get pictures then.



nothing wrong with it i would just perfer an ext cab or crew cab for road trips or when the wife starts popping out little ones down the road. i was just saying i cant see investing the price of a new block into a truck when i can go find another ex or crew for slightly more than a motor would cost.



you are correct it was not the bolt or the threads that are bad, it is the fact the whole boss on the block the threads were in broke in half and half is now missing.

I am thinking at this point my best option is to clean it up real well and get a stud for it and line the stud up in the half the threads that are left and then weld the bottom half in where the steel is missing and then just use a nut on the top of the stud to hold the turbo. i think this will be strong enough to hold the seal for the oil passages as long as i preheat the block for welding and gradually bring the temp back down vs letting it cool fast.

what do you guys think? pictures will come soon.....

PS thanks for all the input:bowfast::bowfast:
Preheat is required for cast, and slow controlled cooling is as important.
that is already planned for. i even am trying to get it into a buddies heated shop to help with that cause right now i am working outside in 10 degree weather and i think that will make it cool a little too fast.....lol

P.S. moore- what is that in your avatar? is that a genset or have i just been staring at them too long?
 

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^^^^^^^ What he said^^^^ I work for a salvage yard, and we weld up cast blocks all the time, with out using heat. All we do is a CLEAN block prep, weld a little at a time, and peen the weld with the pionted end of a slag hammer while cooling, and haven't had an issue.
 

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JB Weld and a stud will work if you clean the area and get to a warmer work enviorment. I believe the work surface need to be 50* or warmer. JB Weld instructionsUse the broken piece also as it will provide additional grip and area for the JB Weld to grip.
 
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