Seriously, no one has a thoughtbon this?

 

First thing I'd do is decommission the aftermarket stuff and see if normal TC operation returns.

Do our trucks need a turbo timer? I thought there was something about the design of our turbos which made a delayed shutdown unnecessary.

 

I had an issue similar, it was cause by LED lighting. I put load resistors to the taillights and it solved the problem

And NO, our trucks have absolutely Zero safety features to not allow oil coaking

 

Any follow up to what caused this issue? I'm having the same thing with my truck.

 

Probably best off to start your own thread.
I doubt you have the exact same issues with having the exact same aftermarket stuff installed.
Or at least give all the details in your post.

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About 2 weeks after getting my truck on the road from my Cummins conversion I lost cruise control and noticed my brake lights were partially on. I am getting around 7volts (+/- a couple volts) on the down stream wire of the brake pedal switch, this is without the plug on the switch and I'm getting the normal 12ish volts on the other wire so something is back feeding power to the brake circuit. I've pulled every fuse in the truck, one at a time, and not a single one killed the issue. Pulled the turn signal and hazard relays but still getting that voltage. I've disconnected all wiring for the rear of the truck at the firewall, disconnected the in cab wiring which feeds the high mount brake light. Disconnected the MFS and wires from the steering wheel. The only things that will cause this voltage back-feeding to go away is if I unplug the ABS module, PCM and cruise control assembly. If any one of those three items is plugged in I will get voltage back-feeding into the brake circuit. The truck does have oval LED tail lights in the flat bed but those have been on it for a couple years now with no issues prior to or directly after my engine swap.

Chassis is a '97 F350 4x4 (former 460/e4od), now has a '97 12v Cummins and NV4500, 172k/175k miles on them. No timers or tuners, just boost/pyro gauges and exhaust brake. Gauges were installed weeks before this problem came up and unplugging the one wire for my exhaust brake has had no impact.

I know this is a PS forum and my truck doesn't fit in but this is the only thread I've found via google were someone else had power back-feeding into their brake light circuit.

 

Also, this problem is only with the ignition in the ON/RUN position.

 

Like bradbilt said, you need the load resistors.
The lower constant voltage is actually a normal feature.

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I'll try swapping in some incandescent lights.

Any ideas why this issue would pop up after almost two trouble free years with the LED's in place, and why having the whole harness feeding the back of the truck disconnected would still cause voltage to be present on the down stream side of the brake pedal switch?

I'm relatively new to Fords I'm all for learning what little quirks I need to look out for on this truck.

 

No clue. Double check all your lights though.

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