Brake replacement instructions

I haven't had to buy a new caliper in a long time. I do usually take mine apart and reseal them. If I don't feel like going through all that work I do peel the boots off and clean everything very well.

Don't bother turning your rotors, junk them and buy new ones. I usually take about .001-.003" or so off the new rotors to true them up as depending on where you get them they may have warped slightly from storage.

Also make sure you lube the slides real well.

Depends on WHY it's pulling to the left. Caliper piston issue, slide pin issue, rotor issue, bearing issue? You'll have to inspect the old parts as you take them off to see which one of those issues if any, is causing your issue.

I'd also recommend changing the brake fluid in the entire system. I do that in the juice braked stuff I own about every other year. Keeping good fluid in the system is another reason I think I've not had to change a caliper yet on any of my stuff.

If the tire was low it would pull all the time.

Just look at the truck and see. If you have an ABS speed sensor in the rear than you have at least RABS. If you also have speed sensors in the front then you have 4WABS.

I'd agree, turning the rotors only makes the conditions worse as you have to turn them so far usually to get the hot spots out that they almost re-form instantly when put back into service.

You can sometimes get away with using a dingle ball brake hone on a drill motor which will buy a week or so maybe.

As Stewart mentioned also, proper brake-in on a new reline is the most important and overlooked factor in brake work.

Only missed it by 50%