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peterbilt'in
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Discussion Starter #1
hey

whats the best brand of brake fluid to stock up my system with? i think i have an air pocket... some how.. some where with no leaks:mad:

want to flush out the system... factory juice only has 161K on it currently...LOL

valvoline? prestone? stp? ??

also, power steering is ATF, so go with Mobil 1 synthetic atf?

thanks

-Rob
 

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The best of the best or something you are more willing to pay for?

The best of the best is:

Castrol SRF that goes for $74.95 per liter but has crazy perf specs. Dry 590/Wet 518 The huge one is the wet. Most brake fluids tank once wet this one is better than most all fluids dry with its wet rating.

Others that are very good:

ATE® Super Blue (DOT 4) has a dry boiling point of 536F and a wet boiling point of 396F. $12.00

Brembo® LCF 600+ (DOT 4) brake fluid has an exceptionally high
dry boiling point of 601F and a wet boiling point of 399F. $20.00

Motul® RBF 600 has a very high
dry boiling point of 593F and a wet boiling point of 420F. $20.00

Wilwood's specially formulated
Hi-Temp 570 Racing Brake Fluid has a minimum 570 F dry boiling point $8.00

AP Racing® Brake Fulid in the AP 551, and AP 600.
AP 551 can replace or mix with any DOT3+ fluid.
AP600 is NOT to be mixed with any other types of fluid! $12.50 and $18.00 respectively.

You can use DOT 3,4 and 5.1 but DONOT use DOT 5.0 It is not hydroscopic and can be a real issue.

The ATE is nice upper brand and also is colored so you know when you have flushed bleed all the old fluid out.

Any time you use brakes so much you feel fade you need to bleed the brakes partially as the fluid at the caliper has likely been over heated. As brake fluid does not circulate you only need to bleed what is at the caliper. This is also why bleeding is so important as 99% of the fluid is used for nothing but pressure building. Its very good idea to fully flush bleed the brakes every year.
 

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peterbilt'in
Joined
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1,188 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
great info tarm,

where can i find any of these brands?
im thinking i boiled it a bit a week or 2 ago... and made things worse last weekend. so i was kinda hoping to do it today to see if that was for sure my problem. and if it is, where the pop noise and squish of the pedal goes away, ill order up some of what you have listed... if you tell me where i can get it :poke:

thanks


The best of the best or something you are more willing to pay for?

The best of the best is:

Castrol SRF that goes for $74.95 per liter but has crazy perf specs. Dry 590/Wet 518 The huge one is the wet. Most brake fluids tank once wet this one is better than most all fluids dry with its wet rating.

Others that are very good:

ATE® Super Blue (DOT 4) has a dry boiling point of 536F and a wet boiling point of 396F. $12.00

Brembo® LCF 600+ (DOT 4) brake fluid has an exceptionally high
dry boiling point of 601F and a wet boiling point of 399F. $20.00

Motul® RBF 600 has a very high
dry boiling point of 593F and a wet boiling point of 420F. $20.00

Wilwood's specially formulated
Hi-Temp 570 Racing Brake Fluid has a minimum 570 F dry boiling point $8.00

AP Racing® Brake Fulid in the AP 551, and AP 600.
AP 551 can replace or mix with any DOT3+ fluid.
AP600 is NOT to be mixed with any other types of fluid! $12.50 and $18.00 respectively.

You can use DOT 3,4 and 5.1 but DONOT use DOT 5.0 It is not hydroscopic and can be a real issue.

The ATE is nice upper brand and also is colored so you know when you have flushed bleed all the old fluid out.

Any time you use brakes so much you feel fade you need to bleed the brakes partially as the fluid at the caliper has likely been over heated. As brake fluid does not circulate you only need to bleed what is at the caliper. This is also why bleeding is so important as 99% of the fluid is used for nothing but pressure building. Its very good idea to fully flush bleed the brakes every year.
 

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peterbilt'in
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1,188 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
update... bought a few bottles of the valvoline brake fluid, bled out the D-side front caliper, and sure enough the problem went away.

so a bump on info for good fluid, this stuff is okay i guess... 480 dry and 380 wet or something like that
 

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peterbilt'in
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1,188 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
dont know yet, hard to find info on... thinking about calling up my buddy at the ford dealer have him get me the info. if i get it ill post it
 

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You only need to pull out a few ounces if its becasue of getting the brakes hot ( having any brake fade is too hot) The main issue will almost without fail be the front brakes. Very doubtful on the rear unless its heave load tow situation. It only takes a little more time to do all 4 so why not.'


If you have air in the line you should pull a full cup from each line. The order IIRC off the top of my head is: right rear, left rear, right front, left front


The issue you have to do a full brake flush is the ABS reservoir holds a good amount of fluid. The only way you are told to get it out is of course take it to a stealership to have it cycled and purged. Mighty convenient don't ya think?

Here is tech how you are suppose to do it:

If equipped with the 4 wheel anti-lock brake system and the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) has been replaced or is suspected of containing trapped air; bleed the brake system using the procedure below. Conventional brake system bleeding cannot remove the air trapped in the lower portion of the HCU. If a spongy brake pedal is present and air in the hydraulic control unit is suspected, use the following procedure:

1. Bleed the brake system as outlined in the conventional bleeding procedure.
2. Connect a New Generation Star (NGS) tester or equivalent scan tool, to the serial data link connector below the instrument panel as though retrieving codes.
3. Make sure the ignition switch is in the RUN position.
4. Follow the instructions on the NGS screen. Verify correct vehicle and model year go to the "Diagnostic Data Link' menu item, choose ABS Module, choose "Function Tests", and choose "Service Bleed."

5. Bleed the right-front wheel as follows:
---A. Open the caliper bleed screw and pump the brake pedal for 3 seconds. Repeat the procedure again.
---B. When the fluid runs clear, begin the program and continue to pump the brake pedal.
---C. Continue bleeding for approximately 1 to 2 minutes after the program ends and then tighten the bleed screw.
6. Repeat the bleeding procedure to the left-front, left-rear and finally the right-rear wheel.
7. Remove the pressure bleeding device and adjust the brake fluid level.
8. Road test the vehicle and check for proper brake system operation.

The one way around this is getting the valve to open for you. Take the truck out to where there some loose gravel wet road and get the anti locks to cycles a few good times. Then re-bleed the front brakes. How well will this work. Can't say but worth trying versus going to a dealer.


Where to get the brake fluids listed: If you have a race shop or s store rice runners use. Otherwise online.
 
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