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Discussion Starter #1
With what's in my signature, I hit about 42psi today. I was just curious to see what you guys see your boost dropping after an CAC. I will have a 6.0l cooler
And 3" pipes. If I have too I'll throw the 1.15AR housing back on, but I don't want too.
 

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You're gonna kill the stocker at 42 in no time. IMO, with the stg1s the 1.15 would have stayed on. There is pressure drop across the cooler and through all the plumbing (I saw about 5 psi), but performance has not changed as the air charge is cooler and denser going into the intake. Since the cooler, I've also sprung a good leak in a plenum so its down a couple more...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I know that kind of pressure will kill the turbo, but The initial plan was to keep the stock injectors. The bad thing is, this wa done on out of the box tunes, I still need to get it tuned for the injectors.
 

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The CAC will help you a lot-- you're just moving hot air at 42. I'm not sure you will run any higher max pressure with custom tunes, but it will be better drivability. Without an IC, a stock 1.15 housing, stock fuel and an evo, I ran 35psi on my ACs-- with custom tunes, the truck feels stronger through out the range today at 27 psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, this actually ain't my truck, it's my fathers. He just wants it to run good and have enough pep to keep up with my cummins. I have learned a lot working on it over the the past 4 years.
 

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If he plans on doing any towing, I would suggest putting the 1.15 housing back on to keep the EGT's down.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There are no problems with EGT's.
 

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Cantankerous Old Redneck
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with stock injectors, and a 1.00 housing, I lost about 3lbs boost when I IC'd it (Banks full kit) ....it also pulled a hellova lot better, and the pyro dropped about 200 degrees....I later did stage I's and got rid of the 1.00 housing, it's useless with anything bigger than stock injectors, IMHO...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks man, I doubt this truck will lose the 1.00AR housing. This is basically just a fun work truck. I bet the chip hasn't been turned on since while he drives it. I turned it on the other day and mashed it. Chirped 1st and 2nd!!! Kinda wish my truck did this.
 

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Cantankerous Old Redneck
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just so's you know....the problem isn't egt's with the small housing, it's the amount of drive pressure the small housing exerts on the shaft-bushings,
the shaft is supposed to ride on a cushion of oil, in other words, the oil pressure "Hydraulic's" the shaft AWAY from the bushings....
too much drive pressure compared to what the boost (or BACK pressure is), and the shaft can "Tip" and the shaft will hit the bushings...
the next thing that happens is the wheels scrape the housing and BOOM ..........tell yer OL' Man to keep it UNDER 30-32 lbs boost, and it'll be fine, any moren that, and things can get dicey......
he probably won't be able to cool any more fuel than that anyhow.....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the reply's. I know how a turbo works and what not. I'm a diesel tech for our local GM dealer. For this vehicles primary use, the boost barely sees 17psi. Every now and then it may see 36.

Been looking for some replacements, but don't wanna spend the money. No point really. If time comes to it, I'll rebuild it. I have built several turbos. Mostly Holset's, but a few Garrett's are in the mix.

My only concern it the Turbo flutter I have. Why does the Powerstroke have the flutter?
 

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Cantankerous Old Redneck
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have you taken a good hard look at the fins on the compressor side lately ? could be they are headed south ?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's a brand new wheel. I tore it apart when I replaced the up-pipes two winters ago. I swapped out a SuperDuty Comp Wheel in and had it balanced. There's no play and the bushing looked good. It's done it since day one.
 

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Respect my awesomeness
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so whats better? a 1.0 housing or a 1.10 housing with an intercooler on an otherwise stock engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I definately prefer the 1.0 better on a stock engine.
 

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Flutter might be the stock SD wheel... The OBS one is actually better so say SD guys and is refered to as a wicked wheel. What RPM when flutter happens and is it at WOT, let off or when does it happen?

jrc
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The SD compressor wheel is more aggressive and flows more air. I think I'm honna upgrade to the SD turbo set-up w/ATS shrouded comp housing. The flutter happens all the time. Just getting on it to get up to speed quickly. It starts to happen around 7-8psi boost. Every Powerstroke I have ridden in has this flutter, just can't figgure out why. Every Cummins and Duramax I build doesnt have this issue.
 

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Iirc FMCo amended the OBS inducer design because of too much noise, and added split shots to quieten down the engine rattle. The SD version is prone to compressor stall if/when a chip/tuner is added so lots of guys have gone to a wicked wheel to help prevent compressor stall.
 

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so whats better? a 1.0 housing or a 1.10 housing with an intercooler on an otherwise stock engine?
Banks used the 1.0 housing to compensate for the lag induced by adding an intercooler on their PowerPacks. I lost about a 1/2 second 0-60 time by going back to an 1.15 exhaust housing with my stage IIs. The 1.0 housing went back on and has lasted over 80K miles with the stage IIs with a total of 190K on the turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for that post. I have a 6.0l intercooler ready to go in, just trying to make time to install it.
 
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