Hi, My father in law has an 05 f250 6.0 and I'm trying to diagnose a problem it's having. Lately it's started having no power when it's cold and blowing blue smoke out the exhaust until its warm and then it stops completely. And a few times and it's completely died going down the road and I have to wait 2 minutes before it will restart. I just checked it over with auto enginuity and my ficm keeps 48 volts, batteries are good, no codes, the truck still makes boost. Would a turbo seal ever cause it to die like that or do I have two unrelated problems? I ran a power balance and everything was smooth. The truck is completely stock and the oil is always changed on time. Thank you for any help you can send my way as to what to check.
Brad_9876
Don't recall the original poster for this trouble shooting guide.
6.0 TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE.
Q: My engine starts when cold but runs rough and has poor performance until it warms up
A: Check FICM voltage if below 46 volts repair or replace FICM
A: You have injector stiction issues pour in some REV-X or do Cylinder contribution test and replace bad injectors
Q: Truck smokes blue smoke.
A: Your Engine is burning oil. Bad rings, Turbo seals, Valve seals, Blow by ETC..
Q: Truck smokes white smoke
A: Your engine is burning coolant. Suspect EGR cooler leaking or bad head gasket.
Q:Truck smokes black smoke.
A: Black smoke usually indicates burning excess fuel. VGT solenoid bad or unplugged, Low boost due to leaking CAC boots or tubes, Exhaust Leak to turbo, Fuel injector stuck open or leaking , CAC tank crack, Running a hot tune and or starting off in 3ed gear.
Q: Engine slowly loosing coolant
A: Leaking EGR cooler , Bad head gasket, puking coolant, leaking freeze plugs, Leaking radiator or water pump, hose between egrcooler and oil cooler leaking
Q: The nipple melted off of my de-gass tank.
A: Your oil cooler is plugged up and starving the EGR cooler for coolant turning it into a steam generator. The superheated steam is going to the De-gass tank via the hose from the manifold that runs to the nipple that just melted off. You need a coolant flush, new oil cooler and an EGR delete.
Q: What’s the white crusty stuff around my coolant tank / de-gas bottle
A: Your engine is suffering from a condition called coolant puking. Two scenarios cause this.
#1 Your oil cooler is plugged up and starving the EGR cooler for coolant turning it into a steam generator this flash boiled coolant is entering the de-gas bottle from the rubber hose that leads from the manifold and puking out as it over pressurized the de-gas bottle.
#2 You have a blown head gasket. Combustion gasses are entering the cooling system and over pressurizing it causing puking out the de-gas bottle cap which should vent at about 16 psi.
Q: How do I know if my turbo is bad.
A: A turbocharger is a very simple device basically 2 windmills on one shaft. A lot of “ bad turbo’s” on 6.0’s are simply dirty and can be restored to proper working order in about 4 hours and a little elbow grease. The exception is if the bearings are bad or if it has more than about .004 in of end play or if you can move the shaft side to side enough to cause it to rub the housing. If you can spin it by hand and it seams to move freely then there is a good chance it’s fine. Most turbo problems are bad bearings , cracks in pressurized components like hoses, boots , intercooler , or excess carbon and soot.
From time to time a VGT solenoid will fail ,but this is pretty rare. One more thing is to inspect for damaged compressor blades. The major cause fo this is aftermarket air intakes. The best thing you can do to keep your turbo happy for a long time is keep it cool and lubed and clean. This means stick with the OEM air filter unless you need to make more than 500HP.
Q: Turbo charger spools up slowly
A: VGT solenoid bad or unplugged, Low boost due to leaking CAC boots or tubes, Exhaust Leak to turbo turbo vanes are coked up with rust and carbon.
Q: Turbo charger builds to much boost
A: vanes are coked up with rust and carbon, hot tune , stuck or faulty VGT solenoid.
Q: Low Boost levels
A: VGT solenoid bad or unplugged, Low boost due to leaking CAC boots or tubes, CAC tank cracked Exhaust Leak to turbo turbo vanes are coked up with rust and carbon.
Q: I heard a loud pop / bang and now I can't make boost or power and my truck blows black smoke , Did I blow up my engine??
A: No Worries, Due to a recent repair or oil contamination your CAC boot has blown off under load. Clean the tubes and boots with brake cleaner then spray with hair spray or spray adhesive then reassemble. The best way to prevent this and to keep your boots from rotting out is to reroute the crank case vent.
Q:Truck runs poorly when hot
A: Your EGR valve is dirty and stuck open.
Q: Engine puking coolant from de-gass tank
A: Head gaskets are bad or EGR cooler and oil cooler have failed. There is a slim chance the de-gas tank cap is bad.
Q: CEL when towing and engine looses power
A: Some newer PCM flashes monitor EOT vs ECT delta and when it exceeds 15 deg the truck will go into limp mode. Your oil cooler is obstructed and needs to be replaced. This is a good time to do a cooling system flush and an EGR delete. This can also be caused by a t-stat that is stuck open and not allowing the coolant to warm up.
Q: Do I have a blown EGR cooler?
A: Remove the EGR valve and look down the hole, some times the truck will have to be parked nose down over night. If you see any wetness, wet gooey soot, or it looks steam cleaned, your EGR cooler is bad. This is a good time to do a delete if you can, if you can't I would recommend a new cooler from bullet proof diesel.
Q: Do I have a blown head gasket?
A: Generally if there is a slow gradual pressure increases in the cooling system over 16 PSI then this points to an EGR cooler / oil cooler failure. If the pressure in the cooling system tries to head to and exceed 20psi pretty fast in a cool motor then this is a head gasket. The cap on the De-gas tank is a 16 lb relief, this is why 16 psi is the magic number. The pressure you reach is not as important as the rate of climb. The reason for the slow increase in pressure for the EGR cooler/oil cooler failure is as follows. The oil cooler plugs up and starves the EGR cooler for coolant thus turning it into a superheated steam generator. This point source of heat and excess pressure will lead to the EGR cooler failure. In this condition some have reported the melting nipple on the de-gas tank the attaches to a rubber hose that vents steam from the EGR cooler.
The rapid rise in pressure associated with a head gasket failure is caused by combustion gasses entering the cooling system and raising the cooling system pressure until the vent on the de-gas tank cap opens and the puking starts. I think NAPA has a test strip you can use to detect combustion gasses in the coolant.
OK so with a quick check of a saturated steam chart this is what we know.
15.3 PSIg steam equals 250 degF
20 PSIg steam equals 259 degF
What this mean is that if you take a cold truck out and run the heck out of it and it builds pressure to 20PSI or more and the coolant isn’t 260 deg then it’s a safe bet that combustion gasses are entering the cooling system because you have a bad head gasket.
Water boils at 212 deg at zero PSIg. In a closed system there is a very predictable relationship between steam pressure and steam temperature. This is why cooling systems are pressurised. This way you can have 248 deg coolant that is at about 15 PSIa and you make no steam because the coolant isn’t it’s boiling temp for that pressure, it is however saturated. Now at addition of ethylene glycol raised the boiling point too but for what we are taking about we can use a table for water-based steam. If the system doesn’t get hot enough to the point it should make steam and its building pressure you know that pressure is from a different source like combustion gasses entering the cooling system. From ---- wait for it ------ BAD HEAD GASKETS.
Q: What is the delta between EOT and ECT?
A: Delta refers to the difference between the oil and coolant temperatures. This delta should not exceed 15 deg F , if it does once the truck it up to operating temperature going straight down the highway your oil cooler is plugged up.
Q: What is a high pressure oil system leak.
A: On a 6.0 the fuel injectors are powered by high pressure oil in the range of 550 to 3500 psi. This oil is supplied by a high-pressure oil pump that is driven off the cam gear in the rear of the engine. The oil is transported via a network of connectors , tubes and passages that have o-rings , seals and connectors that over time will develop leaks. The main suspects are the stand pipes and dummy plugs under the valve covers inside the “ oil log” The next problem area on 05-07 trucks is what is know as an STC or Snap To Connect fitting. This fitting Blows apart randomly and your truck will be dead were it stops. This fitting is located on the output side of the HPOP and an updated solid part is available from Ford or International. High Pressure oil leaks can also occur at the injector o-rings or from cracked branch tubes but this is rare. The way to test for a high pressure oil leak is by injecting air into the ICP sensor port and listing for the leak. Some leakage at the HPOP shaft seal is normal. Normaly high pressure oil leaks will be characterized by high IPR values and below normal ICP values as well as hot start and rough hot idle problems.
Q: What is the best way to tell is my HPOP is going bad.
A: Remove the IPR valve and LOOK for Glitter on the screen. Any sign mean you need a HPOP as well as a new IPR valve.
Q: What are normal ICP and IPR values ?
A: Cold engine low idle ICP = 806psi IPR 29%
A: Cold engine high idle ICP= 960psi IPR 33%
A: Warm engine low idle ICP= 585psi IPR 24%
A: Warm engine high idle ICP= 735psi IPR 28%
A: If your engine requires a high IRP percentage to get the same or lower ICP you might have an internal high pressure oil leak
Q: My engine starts fine when cold but, I shut it off to run in the gas station and now it won't start hot. When it cools off a few hours it starts right up.
A: You most likely have a high Pressure oil leak at the STC fitting, Stand pipes , Dummy Plugs or injector O-rings
Q: Ford says to only use gold coolant, all anti-freeze products the same, right ?
A: NO, all coolant products are not the same. Diesel engines have unique properties that require special inhibitors for corrosion and Cavitation. Ford Gold coolant uses silicates to perform these functions and due to the nature of the silicates this coolant breaks down and causes your oil and EGR cooler to be damaged. The better solution would be a Caterpillar EC-1 rated coolant. In NO case should you ever use green coolant in a 6.0.
Q: What is a normal FICM voltage?
A : No mater running or cranking the FICM should never fall below 46 volts.
Q: One of my batteries tested bad should I replace one or both?
A: Yes, replace both batteries as the other one is on it's way to failure as well. To get long life from dual batteries they need to be replaced in pairs. If not one is constantly charging or discharging the other. The weaker of the two is working to discharge the stronger one.
Q: My message center says TBC fault and my truck won't start, why?
A: The most likely suspect here is fuse# 22 the engine control fuse is blown. The main suspects here are shorted trailer wiring, brake controller fault, Fan clutch or wire shorted, Exhaust back pressure sensor shorted That fuse supplies power to the PCM, GPCM, ICP sensor, fan clutch and MAF sensor. 6.0's are well know for wiring harness chafing and shorting. Some have reported the dip stick rubbing on wires has caused this problem as well. Some times this will prevent a code scanner from communicating with the PCM as it has no power.
Q: How do I know if the cam and crank sensors or working with the FICM ok
A: If you have a good scanner, next time she doesn't start monitor the FICM SYNC PID. It should switch to YES if the ficm is communication with the crank sensor. The other PID to monitor would be CKP CMP SYNC STATUS, which should also switch to yes, or 1. Another great PID to monitor is the ENGINE RPM. You want a very linear, solid reading. Sporadic, or non existent would mean the crank sensor has failed. Thanks: Dazillenger
Q: My HFCM plug got stripped out what do I do now?
A: If the 6mm allen gets rolled, you can try a Torx bit and tap it in. You can drop the front drive shaft and drill into it, but not all the way thru, then try a easy-out. You can use a hammer and punch on the outer edge and tap it loose. A small dremel cutting tool to make a slot for a screw driver. Spray it first with a penetrate like Kroil or liquid wrench, PB Blaster before you try the above mentioned. To make more room to work, you can remove the straps on the u-joint on the differential with a 8mm wrench/socket. IIRC,The flange on the transfer case will require a 12pt 12mm socket/box wrench. Spray the bolts with a penetrate to help loosen the bolts. Put a reference mark on the flange of the driveshaft and flange of the transfer case so you can put it back on the same location as it came off. Thanks: Lilpooh
Q: They say not to use starting fluid on a diesel Why not and what else can I use?
A: Using ether or gasoline to start a Diesel engine that has glow plugs is a great way to launch the head right off the engine and damage other engine parts.
Some have reported good results using WD40 as a starting aid. Use at your own risk.
Q: How do I tell if my glow plugs are bad ?
A: Set your DVOM to OHMS. Touch the red lead of your DVOM to the end of the glow plug where the electrical connector plugs into (not the end that sits inside the combustion chamber), and touch the black lead to the threaded part of the glow plug. You should obtain a reading of between 0.5 to 2.0 ohms on a "good" glow plug. Any higher than that, replace it. Also plan on replacing the glow plug harnesses too, since removal of them pretty much mandates replacement.
6.0 TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE.
Q: My engine starts when cold but runs rough and has poor performance until it warms up
A: Check FICM voltage if below 46 volts repair or replace FICM
A: You have injector stiction issues pour in some REV-X or do Cylinder contribution test and replace bad injectors
Q: Truck smokes blue smoke.
A: Your Engine is burning oil. Bad rings, Turbo seals, Valve seals, Blow by ETC..
Q: Truck smokes white smoke
A: Your engine is burning coolant. Suspect EGR cooler leaking or bad head gasket.
Q:Truck smokes black smoke.
A: Black smoke usually indicates burning excess fuel. VGT solenoid bad or unplugged, Low boost due to leaking CAC boots or tubes, Exhaust Leak to turbo, Fuel injector stuck open or leaking , CAC tank crack, Running a hot tune and or starting off in 3ed gear.
Q: Engine slowly loosing coolant
A: Leaking EGR cooler , Bad head gasket, puking coolant, leaking freeze plugs, Leaking radiator or water pump, hose between egrcooler and oil cooler leaking
Q: The nipple melted off of my de-gass tank.
A: Your oil cooler is plugged up and starving the EGR cooler for coolant turning it into a steam generator. The superheated steam is going to the De-gass tank via the hose from the manifold that runs to the nipple that just melted off. You need a coolant flush, new oil cooler and an EGR delete.
Q: What’s the white crusty stuff around my coolant tank / de-gas bottle
A: Your engine is suffering from a condition called coolant puking. Two scenarios cause this.
#1 Your oil cooler is plugged up and starving the EGR cooler for coolant turning it into a steam generator this flash boiled coolant is entering the de-gas bottle from the rubber hose that leads from the manifold and puking out as it over pressurized the de-gas bottle.
#2 You have a blown head gasket. Combustion gasses are entering the cooling system and over pressurizing it causing puking out the de-gas bottle cap which should vent at about 16 psi.
Q: How do I know if my turbo is bad.
A: A turbocharger is a very simple device basically 2 windmills on one shaft. A lot of “ bad turbo’s” on 6.0’s are simply dirty and can be restored to proper working order in about 4 hours and a little elbow grease. The exception is if the bearings are bad or if it has more than about .004 in of end play or if you can move the shaft side to side enough to cause it to rub the housing. If you can spin it by hand and it seams to move freely then there is a good chance it’s fine. Most turbo problems are bad bearings , cracks in pressurized components like hoses, boots , intercooler , or excess carbon and soot.
From time to time a VGT solenoid will fail ,but this is pretty rare. One more thing is to inspect for damaged compressor blades. The major cause fo this is aftermarket air intakes. The best thing you can do to keep your turbo happy for a long time is keep it cool and lubed and clean. This means stick with the OEM air filter unless you need to make more than 500HP.
Q: Turbo charger spools up slowly
A: VGT solenoid bad or unplugged, Low boost due to leaking CAC boots or tubes, Exhaust Leak to turbo turbo vanes are coked up with rust and carbon.
Q: Turbo charger builds to much boost
A: vanes are coked up with rust and carbon, hot tune , stuck or faulty VGT solenoid.
Q: Low Boost levels
A: VGT solenoid bad or unplugged, Low boost due to leaking CAC boots or tubes, CAC tank cracked Exhaust Leak to turbo turbo vanes are coked up with rust and carbon.
Q: I heard a loud pop / bang and now I can't make boost or power and my truck blows black smoke , Did I blow up my engine??
A: No Worries, Due to a recent repair or oil contamination your CAC boot has blown off under load. Clean the tubes and boots with brake cleaner then spray with hair spray or spray adhesive then reassemble. The best way to prevent this and to keep your boots from rotting out is to reroute the crank case vent.
Q:Truck runs poorly when hot
A: Your EGR valve is dirty and stuck open.
Q: Engine puking coolant from de-gass tank
A: Head gaskets are bad or EGR cooler and oil cooler have failed. There is a slim chance the de-gas tank cap is bad.
Q: CEL when towing and engine looses power
A: Some newer PCM flashes monitor EOT vs ECT delta and when it exceeds 15 deg the truck will go into limp mode. Your oil cooler is obstructed and needs to be replaced. This is a good time to do a cooling system flush and an EGR delete. This can also be caused by a t-stat that is stuck open and not allowing the coolant to warm up.
Q: Do I have a blown EGR cooler?
A: Remove the EGR valve and look down the hole, some times the truck will have to be parked nose down over night. If you see any wetness, wet gooey soot, or it looks steam cleaned, your EGR cooler is bad. This is a good time to do a delete if you can, if you can't I would recommend a new cooler from bullet proof diesel.
Q: Do I have a blown head gasket?
A: Generally if there is a slow gradual pressure increases in the cooling system over 16 PSI then this points to an EGR cooler / oil cooler failure. If the pressure in the cooling system tries to head to and exceed 20psi pretty fast in a cool motor then this is a head gasket. The cap on the De-gas tank is a 16 lb relief, this is why 16 psi is the magic number. The pressure you reach is not as important as the rate of climb. The reason for the slow increase in pressure for the EGR cooler/oil cooler failure is as follows. The oil cooler plugs up and starves the EGR cooler for coolant thus turning it into a superheated steam generator. This point source of heat and excess pressure will lead to the EGR cooler failure. In this condition some have reported the melting nipple on the de-gas tank the attaches to a rubber hose that vents steam from the EGR cooler.
The rapid rise in pressure associated with a head gasket failure is caused by combustion gasses entering the cooling system and raising the cooling system pressure until the vent on the de-gas tank cap opens and the puking starts. I think NAPA has a test strip you can use to detect combustion gasses in the coolant.
OK so with a quick check of a saturated steam chart this is what we know.
15.3 PSIg steam equals 250 degF
20 PSIg steam equals 259 degF
What this mean is that if you take a cold truck out and run the heck out of it and it builds pressure to 20PSI or more and the coolant isn’t 260 deg then it’s a safe bet that combustion gasses are entering the cooling system because you have a bad head gasket.
Water boils at 212 deg at zero PSIg. In a closed system there is a very predictable relationship between steam pressure and steam temperature. This is why cooling systems are pressurised. This way you can have 248 deg coolant that is at about 15 PSIa and you make no steam because the coolant isn’t it’s boiling temp for that pressure, it is however saturated. Now at addition of ethylene glycol raised the boiling point too but for what we are taking about we can use a table for water-based steam. If the system doesn’t get hot enough to the point it should make steam and its building pressure you know that pressure is from a different source like combustion gasses entering the cooling system. From ---- wait for it ------ BAD HEAD GASKETS.
Q: What is the delta between EOT and ECT?
A: Delta refers to the difference between the oil and coolant temperatures. This delta should not exceed 15 deg F , if it does once the truck it up to operating temperature going straight down the highway your oil cooler is plugged up.
Q: What is a high pressure oil system leak.
A: On a 6.0 the fuel injectors are powered by high pressure oil in the range of 550 to 3500 psi. This oil is supplied by a high-pressure oil pump that is driven off the cam gear in the rear of the engine. The oil is transported via a network of connectors , tubes and passages that have o-rings , seals and connectors that over time will develop leaks. The main suspects are the stand pipes and dummy plugs under the valve covers inside the “ oil log” The next problem area on 05-07 trucks is what is know as an STC or Snap To Connect fitting. This fitting Blows apart randomly and your truck will be dead were it stops. This fitting is located on the output side of the HPOP and an updated solid part is available from Ford or International. High Pressure oil leaks can also occur at the injector o-rings or from cracked branch tubes but this is rare. The way to test for a high pressure oil leak is by injecting air into the ICP sensor port and listing for the leak. Some leakage at the HPOP shaft seal is normal. Normaly high pressure oil leaks will be characterized by high IPR values and below normal ICP values as well as hot start and rough hot idle problems.
Q: What is the best way to tell is my HPOP is going bad.
A: Remove the IPR valve and LOOK for Glitter on the screen. Any sign mean you need a HPOP as well as a new IPR valve.
Q: What are normal ICP and IPR values ?
A: Cold engine low idle ICP = 806psi IPR 29%
A: Cold engine high idle ICP= 960psi IPR 33%
A: Warm engine low idle ICP= 585psi IPR 24%
A: Warm engine high idle ICP= 735psi IPR 28%
A: If your engine requires a high IRP percentage to get the same or lower ICP you might have an internal high pressure oil leak
Q: My engine starts fine when cold but, I shut it off to run in the gas station and now it won't start hot. When it cools off a few hours it starts right up.
A: You most likely have a high Pressure oil leak at the STC fitting, Stand pipes , Dummy Plugs or injector O-rings
Q: Ford says to only use gold coolant, all anti-freeze products the same, right ?
A: NO, all coolant products are not the same. Diesel engines have unique properties that require special inhibitors for corrosion and Cavitation. Ford Gold coolant uses silicates to perform these functions and due to the nature of the silicates this coolant breaks down and causes your oil and EGR cooler to be damaged. The better solution would be a Caterpillar EC-1 rated coolant. In NO case should you ever use green coolant in a 6.0.
Q: What is a normal FICM voltage?
A : No mater running or cranking the FICM should never fall below 46 volts.
Q: One of my batteries tested bad should I replace one or both?
A: Yes, replace both batteries as the other one is on it's way to failure as well. To get long life from dual batteries they need to be replaced in pairs. If not one is constantly charging or discharging the other. The weaker of the two is working to discharge the stronger one.
Q: My message center says TBC fault and my truck won't start, why?
A: The most likely suspect here is fuse# 22 the engine control fuse is blown. The main suspects here are shorted trailer wiring, brake controller fault, Fan clutch or wire shorted, Exhaust back pressure sensor shorted That fuse supplies power to the PCM, GPCM, ICP sensor, fan clutch and MAF sensor. 6.0's are well know for wiring harness chafing and shorting. Some have reported the dip stick rubbing on wires has caused this problem as well. Some times this will prevent a code scanner from communicating with the PCM as it has no power.
Q: How do I know if the cam and crank sensors or working with the FICM ok
A: If you have a good scanner, next time she doesn't start monitor the FICM SYNC PID. It should switch to YES if the ficm is communication with the crank sensor. The other PID to monitor would be CKP CMP SYNC STATUS, which should also switch to yes, or 1. Another great PID to monitor is the ENGINE RPM. You want a very linear, solid reading. Sporadic, or non existent would mean the crank sensor has failed. Thanks: Dazillenger
Q: My HFCM plug got stripped out what do I do now?
A: If the 6mm allen gets rolled, you can try a Torx bit and tap it in. You can drop the front drive shaft and drill into it, but not all the way thru, then try a easy-out. You can use a hammer and punch on the outer edge and tap it loose. A small dremel cutting tool to make a slot for a screw driver. Spray it first with a penetrate like Kroil or liquid wrench, PB Blaster before you try the above mentioned. To make more room to work, you can remove the straps on the u-joint on the differential with a 8mm wrench/socket. IIRC,The flange on the transfer case will require a 12pt 12mm socket/box wrench. Spray the bolts with a penetrate to help loosen the bolts. Put a reference mark on the flange of the driveshaft and flange of the transfer case so you can put it back on the same location as it came off. Thanks: Lilpooh
Q: They say not to use starting fluid on a diesel Why not and what else can I use?
A: Using ether or gasoline to start a Diesel engine that has glow plugs is a great way to launch the head right off the engine and damage other engine parts.
Some have reported good results using WD40 as a starting aid. Use at your own risk.
Q: How do I tell if my glow plugs are bad ?
A: Set your DVOM to OHMS. Touch the red lead of your DVOM to the end of the glow plug where the electrical connector plugs into (not the end that sits inside the combustion chamber), and touch the black lead to the threaded part of the glow plug. You should obtain a reading of between 0.5 to 2.0 ohms on a "good" glow plug. Any higher than that, replace it. Also plan on replacing the glow plug harnesses too, since removal of them pretty much mandates replacement.
I had blue smoke and the seal in the turbo was junk would smoke blue till warm then stop but never died on me just may want to be careful and diagnose it you don't want the truck to run away from you. And you could take the intake off the turbo and see how much play the shaft has in it and take the down pipe off and see if there's a build up of burnt oil on the flange
Interesting. I have the same issue with my 99 7.3 When cold, it doesn't have much power, and sometimes after it's warm, it will cut off at a stop light. I've got two engine codes - one for the camshaft position sensor and one for exhaust back pressure high. I know there is a butterfly somewhere in the exhaust to be used as a heat riser when it's cold out. This closes and blocks the exhaust and helps build heat in the engine faster when cold - along with the high idle circuit. I think it's staying closed too long, or closing when it shouldn't. Any ideas as to what may cause this? Temperature sensor somewhere, or something?
Might I add that I replaced the camshaft position sensor a while back with a Borg Warner unit. It was doing this before I replaced it, and it seems like it has gotten worse since the installation of this new one.
Bad injector putting fuel in Cly in droplets not mist. Probably this sticktion they call it. There are to micro solonoids on each injector , one lets rail oil in the other lets it out. If the spool is sticking in either one fuel atomization is not happening, as it warms the spools free up. The way I find which injector it is, park the truck at night where nothing block acces to the road, crank the engine and immediatly force it to go as much as it will , often it will set a Cly contribution code. Good luck.
Would you suggest guessing at it and changing expensive parts for diagnosis purposes. Or maybe you would suggest some snake oil additive. I fix trucks. This site sucks because of #######s that think they are diesel mechanics because they got a super duty with a programmer. Competent knowledge on diesel repair is far and few between here.
Dont forget guys like you that suggest possibly the worst thing to do.
I never suggested to go and start replacing parts. I would have suggested running a power balance test, if that person was able to. If not, then find another way.
Oh besides, what you described is NOT stiction.
OP, blue smoke is burnt oil, not improperly burnt diesel. That is either white, gray or black.
Could be the CCV or the turbo seals.
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I never suggested to go and start replacing parts. I would have suggested running a power balance test, if that person was able to. If not, then find another way.
Oh besides, what you described is NOT stiction.
OP, blue smoke is burnt oil, not improperly burnt diesel. That is either white, gray or black.
Could be the CCV or the turbo seals.
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Thank you miller for proving my point and giving examples to boot. I described stiction perfectly. The micro solonoids are part of the spool valve. Remember your words " I have used Hot Shots before when I had stiction. Poured it straight into the oil filter housing." And two post down about the results of snake oil additive, " All it was(Hot Shots) was a $50 bandaid till I get some new spool valves." I am not the one that does not understand what stiction is. Also in diagnosing stiction a Cly balance test for diagnosing this symptom would only be effective when the engine is cold not when it is warm and the spool valves have freed up and the engine now runs fine. People always describe their exhaust smoke differently ESP when it comes to blue and gray smoke. Blue oil smoke and blue fuel smoke look different. Blue oil smoke that clears when engine warms would only be coming from oil leaked into Cly by valve guide seals which would not cause rough running injection issues. " blue smoke is burnt oil, not improperly burnt fuel". Really? Are you sure? Do you think leaking turbo seals would cause a rough running cold start and then quit leaking when engine is warm and oil is thinner? I do not. Would a broken or worn oil control ring fix itself every time the engine warms up? No. I am not sure where you get the info that you spew forth. I simply was trying to help this man fix his truck and share some of the ways I diagnose and repair the countless Diesel engines that have been through my shop and have been successfully repaired and back on the road. I have never discredited any of your post, you called me out.
:blah:blah:blah:
And actually, I never called you out for anything, all I said was that I dont think that's the best idea.
Did I suggest Hot Shots or any of your "snake oil" to the OP? NO!
Did I say that the rough running was ONLY caused by a leaking turbo seal? NO
Dont put words in my mouth.
Also, I'm not the kid with just a programmer who thinks he is a diesel mechanic. I never said I know everything.
Also, just because you work on trucks for a living, does NOT mean you know more then some people who dont
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And actually, I never called you out for anything, all I said was that I dont think that's the best idea.
Did I suggest Hot Shots or any of your "snake oil" to the OP? NO!
Did I say that the rough running was ONLY caused by a leaking turbo seal? NO
Dont put words in my mouth.
Also, I'm not the kid with just a programmer who thinks he is a diesel mechanic. I never said I know everything.
Also, just because you work on trucks for a living, does NOT mean you know more then some people who dont
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Partsandservice, I gotta apologize to ya. Not sure why I snapped.
I see what you mean about the blueish tint to the smoke. Hell, mine started doing that the other day. Was looking at the color, and low-and-behold, it was blueish. So, your right on that note..
I see what you mean about the blueish tint to the smoke. Hell, mine started doing that the other day. Was looking at the color, and low-and-behold, it was blueish. So, your right on that note..
We are good, I got out of line myself. Diagnosing problems is difficult and most times only a guess when you don't have the truck in right in front of you and sometimes even when it is right in front of you. Hopefully the OP will be able to find the correction and share it if we didn't run him off.
Exactly. I can't even count how many times I have told people that I dont know what is going on without actually being in front of the vehicle.
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