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Discussion Starter #1
I have been dealing with this issue for a while now. I started from the hubs up and got to the pump. I disconnected the 4" black hose running from the pump and plugged the black hose running to the cab directly to the pump. Soon as I did that I got all of my funtions back. My question is what is the little componet after the vac resivoir on the side of the pss fender.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
any help would be appreciated. I got everything on the vents working ok but by bypassing the vac tank is that ok. Also I dont know what the thing on the side of the fender is and what it controls
 

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7.3 fan
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need better description of this thing you speak of could be the vac pump or the sol. for the esof couple of things there.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Its on the side of the fender. There is the pump, then from the pump to the vac tank, then from the tank to this thing on the actual inner fender.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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If you have a 4x4 it could be the 4WD hub solenoid - a common leak point.
 

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Hate to ask but you did confirm the gray line next to the oil fill neck is connected, correct. Did this start right after a service? Another thing to check is the controller (brain)blower motor resistor) right next to the oil neck. Its a metal electronic component.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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My question is what is the little componet after the vac resivoir on the side of the pss fender.
My previous post was answering your question above.

First locate the vacuum pump on the passenger side fender well.
Make sure it works by listening with the key on should be vibrating.
Next unplug the vacuum harness at the resevoir an cover with a finger to make sure it turns off.
Install a vacuum pump into the hose (the pump should pull 25+ " of vacuum within seconds).
If that is ok, then reconnect the pump line to resevoir inlet and vacuum pump to outlet to make sure the resivoir will hold vacuum.
If thats good, follow lines to the "tee" were they split. You will see two lines ..... one goes to the front end and the other to the dash.
Disconnect the lines and hook up the vacuum pump to each line, one at a time.
Pump the gun to 20 " or so and monitor for 5 minutes to insure they do not drop vacuum.
90 percent of the time the problem is the line going to the front end.
If the front end is causing the problem, then jack up the front end disconnect the vacuum lines to front knuckles.
Pump to around 20" of vacuum while spinning tires to see if it drops vacuum.
If either one does, then add 3-5 psi of air to the knuckle and spray with soapy water to find the leak.
You can either fix the leak or cap off the line up top and run your hubs manually.
If the dash and the front end lines hold vacuum, then cap both lines off with a golf tee or equivlant.
Pump the line from resevoir to vacuum control solenoid to find the problem.
Also if the grey vacuum line that goes either to the hot water shut off in the heater hose or to the evaporator case is hanging loose, it should only cause a problem in max a/c.
If the problem is in the dash just keep unhooking vacuum lines and plug one end and pump the other until you find the leak.

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj23/Beachbumcook/VacummLines.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I think its the 4*4 solenoid. I still lock in when I switch to 4*4 on the dash. Also my pump would run all the time before and now it will run and then shutoff after a few seconds. The little gray hose was connected
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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PVHS (Pulse Vacumm Hub Solenoid) Part #

7C3Z-9H465-A
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Will it hurt something If I keep it bypassed. Like I said I still have my 4*4 funtions
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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If you have it bypassed, doesn't that mean you have the 4WD hubs ebgaged all of the time?
 
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