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Crazy Talk
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3,537 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
what works best slotted, cross drilled or drilled and slotted?
 

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Crazy Talk
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3,537 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
ok thanks, i need something that wont warp so easy like the stock ones.
 

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Reloading
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429 Posts
Many use power slots and rave about them. I ran the cryo power slots for about 9 a year and they "warped" too. I ended up using NAPA's ultra premium and they seem to be better that the power slots so far.
 

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Towing Doubles with the X
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233 Posts
Call these guys, R1 Concepts out of La Habra, Ca. they also are on Ebay, but you can get the ebay price by calling them, I picked mine up from there store when I was in SoCal. I got there drilled and slotted rotors, along with their recommended pads, and I LOVE my brakes.
I pull a 44' enclosed gooseneck race car trailer and when my factory rotors of 140K miles went metal to metal, I opted for a major overhaul, new calipers front and rear due to the rubber dust boots on the pistons were non-exsistant due to the extreme heat the brakes produced while coming down the mtns out of dever heading to Utah or the 17 frwy from Flagstaff to Phoenix, I run these roads monthly and heavy..
When I replaced the origanal pads and rotors with the R1 Concepts, I also replaced the calipers on all four wheels and upgraded to braided stainless steel brake lines and flushed entire brake system out with new fluid. and I now have the best brakes I have ever had.. Stiff pedal, quick stopping power...Call thee guys, their great guys and parts were instock.. And no-one is harder on brakes then me.
 

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Towing Doubles with the X
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233 Posts
And just so you know, my rotors also have the diamond tip slots, and the slots never get packed up with brake pad dust (material) as some have said happens. And the drill holes are champferd also.
 

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Crazy Talk
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3,537 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
thanks i will def look hem up. i had been eyeing summits cross drilled and slotted one. like $100 ea
 

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PSN Mega Miler
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6,480 Posts
Id watch out for the cross drilled ones. They look cool but they crack with age on most of them. If you go cross drilled make sure its a large brand name or good warranty.
 

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Caption This
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4,258 Posts
Slots and holes are no benefit until the brake temp gets to about 800 degrees. Most SD brakes never get over 500°.
 

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Crazy Talk
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3,537 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
yea thats why i was unsure of what to get. heck after i replaced the rotors on my puller when it was a dd w/ regular replacements i was cracking them once a year. i get tired of them gettin stupid on my sd the first time i haul across mountains after they have been turned. 1badf350 did you get the eline ones or the premium?
 

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PSN Mega Miler
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6,480 Posts
Slots and holes are no benefit until the brake temp gets to about 800 degrees. Most SD brakes never get over 500°.
When the temperature at the interface between the pad and the disc exceeds the thermal capacity of the pad, the pad loses friction capability mainly due to out-gassing of binder (matrix) materials in the pad compound. The brake pedal remains firm and solid but the car will not stop no matter how hard you push on the pedal. The first indication is a distinctive smell, a signal to back off. Solutions: better cooling, higher mass brake discs size and vane configuration or higher heat range pad compound.
Racing pads outgas / fade at 800 degrees. Most stock pad materials will show signs of fade as low as 300 degrees.

Slotted rotors help with out gassing and cooling.

How bad a pad heats up isnt how heavy the vehicle is normally its how long you use the brakes. Thus going down a large mountain hill and having to use the brakes to maintain a safe speed will overheat them far more than normal in town traffic stops. If replacing rotors anyway Id go slotted.
 

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Towing Doubles with the X
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233 Posts
I used the e-line, they have a coating on them so that the hat area and edge of rotors dont rust like the stock ones. I think the only differance with the premiums was that the hat area was powder coated. I run stock wheels and didnt see the need to drop the extra coins for something that I couldnt see or didnt give me any additional braking benifit...
And just to let you know, I have never smelled hot brakes since this upgrade, and I have 0 brake shake and like I said in my first post I pull a tripple axle goose neck weighing 20,000 lbs loaded alot accross the country. but to be fair, I also make sure my calipers slides pin stay lubed with anti-seize about every 10,000 miles,
 

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Caption This
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4,258 Posts
Most stock pad materials will show signs of fade as low as 300 degrees.
I don't think you will find any legitimate data that shows the OE brakes on a SD fade at 300°. There is some stuff in that article that you linked that is incorrect or not applicable to a SD. I think FMTRVT commented on that article several years ago. You should be able to find his comments with a search.
 
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